I have to hang a pre hung extieor door on a house with alumnim siding. The j channel around the door will need to be replaced. how to I install the new j channel without unzipping the siding around the door?
When I have installed windows with new vynial siding, I have used a flashing tape around the window. Then the j. I am concerned about water getting in behind the siding.
And when that is done, do I caulk where the j channel meets the brick mold on the door?
Replies
Measure and investigate carefully.-you may not need to do any of that.
you may be able to work primarily from the inside--remove the old interior casing,door and jambs---and leave the old exterior casing in place. the aluminum trim is likely attached to that exterior casing.
remove the crappy brick mold that came with the new pre-hung.you will then tilt in the pre-hung from the inside. your floor height may screw you in that attempt LOL. with luck------- you will be able to re-use the interior casing.
Maybe is the operative word--it has worked out for me as described about 30-40--------------5 of the time.
usually, i am replacing odd sized doors----- back doors mostly---32" wide, 77 or 78"high. Prehung not much help--so i generally stick to replacing just the door and cutting it down. got to pick the door carefully if you are gonna cut THAT much off it. LOL,
Stephen
I don't think I will be so lucky, When I looked at the door it was late. The door looked like it was set to far in, the brick mold was flush with siding. The alum trim looked as if someone cut it with a chain saw and tried to wrap the brickmold, beat it around the brickmold and nailed it down. But it was painted to match!!
That will have to go, that's all crap!
Was thinking of scraping the brickmold with the door and replace with a PVC trim.
Looks as if I will have to do an ext. jamb on the inside.
Is j channel used on the top of the door or is a different trim used to shed the water?
And do I caulk where the j meets the brickmold.
Is "J" channel used on top of the door, or is a different trim used to shed watrer?...
Answer..."J" (by itself) is not sufficient. If you have any peel and stick flashing membranes, place them above the header like you normally flash a window header.
Bend coil stock and make a cap that sits on the header (brick mold). This "cap" would basically be "L" shaped, but add another downward bend so that the cap extends down over the front edge of the brick mold. . Part of the cap is nailed off to the house siding, the other end is nailed into this down leg edge of the brick mold's face...do not nail on the top side.After membrane flashing and coil capping, then place your "J" channel on top of the capped header.
Yes, you can put a bead of caulk between the "J" and the brick mold in order to hide any gaps...but as a rule, the caulking won't last. Better to bend an " L" shaped piece from coil stock and tack to Brick mold perimeter and house siding BEFORE sliding in new "J" channel. This "L" will act as a gutter channel and keep rainwater out.
Davo
Davo
Davo,
Thanks for the reply, you answered alot of my concerns. What I have here is really a mess. It's not really a j channell, looks something that was made on a brake, cut with a chain saw, and beat over the brick mold in an attempt to wrap.
I am just going to unzip some siding to get the J in and flashed properly. The L trim on top of the door was what I was concerned about, a rain cap to shed the water. this door is all exposed to the elements, no roof.
I am replacing with same size and swing, but tring to clean up someone elses mess. My main concern is to keep the rain from getting back in behind the siding. When I pulled the inside casing off I didn't see any wated damage, but I have some sloppy drywall work to trim to.
Thanks
When I hung a new door in our hardboard sided house, I removed the brick mold, hung the door, then ripped the brick mold to the right width (had to remove about 1/8" on the sides) to fit the siding as it was. If the opening is too large you can fashion some new wider replacement mold somehow.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
"The "J" channelaround the door will have to be replaced..."
Why? are you removing the "J" because the new door needs a bigger R-O? or is the "J" nailed into the existing door's brick mold and you figured it's gonna get all torn up during door removal?
Normally the "J" butts tight up against the brickmold, but it is actually fastened to the house. There may be a trim nail or two fastened into the brickmold but use a nailset and punch these thru.
If you need to remove the "J", you can probably just rip it out by pulling on it HARD. Once out, remove stubborn nails that may be in the way. Cut your new "J" to size and slip back in underneath siding. You will have to unzip several key pieces (but not all of them) in order to re-nail in place.
Aternative #1....Keep the original "J" channel. After installing new door , wrap the brick mold with aluminum coil stock. The coil stock will wrap over BOTH the brick mold and the "J" channel. The coil stock gets nailed to the inside edge of the brick mold, and pressure fits on the other side with a tight bend behind the "J".
Alt. #2....Remove the "J". Install a 1x that is rabbeted to fit overtop the siding. Again, wrap the 1x with coil stock. OR forget wrapping with coil stock and use exterior PVC wood trim (AzteK..etc) .
If worried about water intrusion, wrap exposed house siding area before reinstalling "J" or using any of the suggested alternatives. If door is underneath a large porched area, no need to worry. If no porch, make sure door header is poroperly flashed.
Davo
Assuming same size openning--in swing door--- Take off the brick molding from the new door and leave the "J" alone. Install the door more traditionally with shims. Flush to the interior. Install the new brick molding last, trimming to fit. Make ext. jams if need be.
Best to you and yours, Chris.
Some say I know too much.