Boston Area
Any quantifiable difference in quality, finish or manufacturers rep with the 2 major fiber cement sidings? Using 7″ exposure 12′ clapboard.
I have read 100 or more posts on the “How to deal w/ butt joint” issue. I get the feeling that those of you who have a lot of experience handling the product like to use 4″ squares of aluminum flashing behind butts and no caulk. Do i have that correct? And i assume you are still caulking where siding meets trim.
Replies
I've used both and my supplier supplies both; the rep (a guy in his 60's who has been a rep for his Co. for over 30 years) has toured factories for both brands and told me he felt Certainteed's factory process had, in his opinion, better quality control.
I personally prefer Certainteed because it seems a bit tougher and the cedar weatherboard pattern, IMO, is much more realistic as a "tight grain" surface than the courser grain of the Hardie.
In the final analysis, it's probably a Chevy/Ford/Dodge thing. For me, the price is the same....
Some people butt tight; most flash behind the butt joints (including me), some use aluminum, some just use tarpaper strips. IMO, either is sufficient and MUCH better than not flashing at all.
I gap the butt joints about 1/16th and caulk them with Vulkem urethane caulk....feather the caulked joint with a foam brush dipped in mineral spirits and, after painting, the butt joints pretty much disappear.
Butted tight with no caulk does not hide the joint. I tried it once on one side of a house and I do believe the plank expanded slightly when the sun hit it, creating a bulge....removed that section and rehung it with a gap.
I've sided a couple houses with the pre-stained Certainteed; I have nothing but praise for that product.
Hardie backer as a tile substrate is great, as is their soffet plank.
Both brands, in the final analysis, IMO, are probably just fine.