I think I already know the answer, but would like some feedback from the experts. Here’s the situation:
I’m doing some cabinet work for a customer including a kitchen island that houses a Sub-Zero ice maker. The appliance installer (the customers long-time contractor) decided that a drain line wasn’t necessary and (you guessed it), the ice maker dumped water under the island buckling about 30 sq ft of the oak hardwood flooring. I pulled the island out yesterday so the flooring guy could replace the damaged flooring and scheduled the island reinstallation for next week.
Last night, the customer called and told me that he was changing the plan. Now, his contractor buddy is just going to sand down the buckled flooring, get it dried out, then stain and finish it. As politely as I could, I told the customer that I thought this was a really bad idea but I would reinstall the island as scheduled if that’s what he really wants to do.
To add to the fun, the island is getting a one-piece glass counter top (~20 sq ft) that is “glued” down with a mastic so it ain’t coming back up if this plan doesn’t work. Right now, I’m torn between two ideas.
- Since the floor isn’t my problem, I just go along with the plan, reinstall the island, pick up my check, and get outta Dodge.
- Try again to talk the customer into doing it the “right” way and not face the prospect of re-doing the floor somewhere down the line. I don’t think it would be possible to remove the countertop in one piece once it’s installed.
I would sure like to hear from some hardwood flooring experts about sanding down the buckling. I didn’t take any measurements, but the worst ridges were under the island and were ~1/8″ to 3/16″ high.
Replies
If he is going to sand down the floor and then let it dry out you may get some dips. Better to let it dry out first and then sand. Should be okay then. Though if the drain line is not installed it could happen all over again.
Write a letter to your customer outlining all the scenarios so you're covered. Then let him decide what he wants to do.
Does the glass top have to be glued down?
Ben -
It's already sanded. I talked to the customer this morning and he's going for it since he has a non-moveable completion date of 4/7. He's aware that there may be problems later, but his contractor has agreed to re-do the floor if that happens.
Apparently, the glass has to be glued down, but it weighs almost 500# so that may not be necessary. It may be a good idea to not glue it for a while so we can see what happens to the floor.
I'll butt in (I'm not a flooring expert) and say I agree with you. The buckling is caused by the oak swelling from being wet. My guess is that some day it will dry out and shrink again, so sanding it when wet will not permanently solve the problem. It'll come back when the floor dries out fully in a few months. It'll just have low spots where the high spots used to be. Give the homeowner notice that you are not responsible for any problems in the future if (er, when) the floor looks bad and get the homeowner to sign off on this just to be safe.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
It isn't in writing, but I made it clear to the customer that I had no responsibility for the floor. I'll probably throw a note in my final invoice to get it on record.
I guess a lot of my problem is that I like this customer and think that his contractor is leading him down the garden path just so he can avoid spending $3k for the flooring guy to do it right. The customer and the contractor have a long history so this may be a situation where I just gotta let it slide. Like the sign says......."You just can't fix stupid" - lol.