First off, thanks to eveyone from the tools section who helped buy a CMS. I ended up getting the Makita LS1040. Your advise was invaluable.
A question on finishing hardwood floors. The flooring is Ash. It will be in a high traffic part of the house including a back door hallway that gets the winter wear.
I dread the smell of traditional varathane and would like to know if anyone knows of an alternative that would be as strong but maybe less drying time and smell.
Replies
Mike
I've said it a zillion times before but I'll repeat it again. MOISTURE CURE! There isnt anything else thats better. Plain and simple fact. PLEASE read the directions exactly because its a "process". Its very strong and dries very fast specially in humid weather which is the best time to use it.
Be well
Namaste
Andy
It's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Andy,
You have to remember that MCU is not a diyer product. Those of us, including you, who make their livelyhood from this type of work innately use knowledge that the average homeowner will never have. Resanding a failed MCU job is a sentence better reserved for your worst enemy, not some guy trying to refinish his floors over the weekend.
A better suggestion is to use a heavy bodied OMU, like Duraseal or even heavier, Woodline from Bona Kemi. These products are fairly forgiving, and the fumes won't won't kill you.
I'm not coming down on you...just don't wanna see some chap in a bind.Ditch
Ditch, Somewhat off the subject of this thread -- but I will ask it anyway -- what do you think of the Waterlox products? I have like this product for other items, and wanted to know what you think of them for floors.
Dave
deblacksmith,
Waterlox is primarily known for it's tung oil finishes. They have been providing the boat industry with quality sealers and finishers for years.
I have never used Waterlox, but do on occasion use Watco when the job calls for a hand rubbed finish. I have a large stock of 5 gal. drums of Watco which I purchased many years ago, just as the spontaneous combustion issue forced them to stop producing their original floor oil finish.
Oil finishes, done right, are extremely labor intensive and take a long time, which pushes the cost beyond what most consumers are willing to pay. One has to continue to oil the floor until the floor tells you it's done. That may be 5 or more coats, with at least 24 hours dry time between coats. You essentially flood the floor with oil, wipe the excess and then machine buff it off with absorbent pads or burlap. Floors that haven't had enough oil will look "hungry", there will be dry, uneven areas indicating the need for more oil.
The oil/resin penetrates deeply into the wood, where it polymerizes, unlike poly, which is a surface coating.
Oil finishes also require maintenance. The floor will require a coat of rejuvenating oil once a year or so and a thorough buffing to bring back the sheen. One thing with a rubbed oil finish: You can change the sheen, the more you buff it, the higher the gloss.
Hope this helps.Ditch
Mike
http://www.poloplaz.com that should answer your questions. Darkworksite4: When the job is to small for everyone else, Its just about right for me"
Thanks Ditch, This is the basic information I was looking for. This is the type of finish we have used on the timbers of the timber frame we are building (LandArk in this case). You are correct about the amout labor, and the timbers only got two coats so far. But then again it is our house. We are not to the floors yet, doing the rough in wiring right now.
Again thanks,
deblacksmith
Hello,
Last summer, I followed a conversation about floor finishes as I was anticipating installing a wood floor in my small cabin. Well, the old pine wide plank floor is installled & I am ready to finish it. I was intrigued by the recommended finish of equal parts of tung oil/boiled linseed oil/pure turpentine followed by a thin coat of buffed Johnson's paste wax. I have applied the oil mixture to a sample board & then, after 24 hours, "buffed" the board with a terry towel & lots of elbow grease. I love the result but am unsure of the appropriate buffer pad to use for the entire floor (a 20 x 24' open area). A fellow from Britain on the FHB chatline(Ian Gilam) suggested a black grade nylon pad but it looks very abrasive. Just wondering if this is the appropriate pad as the janitorial place that rents buffers says black is for stripping. I am prepared for the extra work involved to thoroughly saturate the wood as this cabin has been a project of love for me & spending time with it is as theraputic as gardening in the summer!
Jeanne Olson
North Pole, Alaska
Ditch,
You're right no doubt which was why I said to follow the directions precisely. I did over 3000 sq ft of it in this house. I lived and learned with it in different rooms. We all have to start somewhere. I agree that MCR isnt the best place to start....Good advice bro. although I do believe its the best protection against H2o
Be well
Namaste'
AndyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
MCU acts and applies just like oil poly as long as it is applied in low humidity, early in the morning when the temp is cool. One can air condition an existing house down to a low temp and create low humidity at the same time. Also, one can add retarder to extend the open time. Apply in bands that are much smaller in width than usual so that you can get back to the starting point of each line sooner. Alot of planning is necessary so that you know exactly where you need to be in the application to keep your wet edges moving. An installer, one person, might have two or three wet edges going at the same time. MCU is relatively easy compared to Glitsa. Now that product takes skill. Glitsa goes on at 300 sf per gallon. GW
Edited 9/22/2002 4:01:44 PM ET by Greg Warren
Warren.....I totally agree...and one can add Japan dryer to retard the drying time and wet edges.
Good points.
Be well
Namaste
AndyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Guys,
This is what I'm talking about. Knowledge that some of us take for granted. Would you really recommend moisture cure to a cat getting ready to finish his first floor? It's like how we survey the coat job based on how you wanna get out, it comes pretty naturally. Do you think people who don't do floors are thinking about wet edge time? Shoot!, they may be in a closet while the last pull is getting hard. Ditch
All coatings can be difficult to apply even for the professional if the conditions aren't right; to warm of a house, to much direct sunlight or multiple rooms extending off a long hallway that one must exit from. Water base, oil, moisture cure and glitsa all apply. The key to all of the finishes is to create the conditions that setup an easy application and do not push those conditions. I always coat Glitsa and moisture cure urethane in the morning only, unless it is a dry cold day. If Mike wants to use moisture cure, he can come here and find out how to best approach it. GW
Good thread. My faith in these forums has been revitalized.
What is OMU?
silver
Oil Modified Urethane
Mike,
Dude, my comments aren't directed towards you. They are general in nature, for all I know you may have coated lots of floors and are able to deal with the issues of using a fast curing product.
For a weekend diyer with a rental machine and a pack of new lambies, telling them to go float MCU is like a nascar crew chief telling the average guy with a set of Craftsmen sockets that engine rebuilds are easy.
Ditch