We have solid 3/4″ red oak hardwood floors in our livingroom, diningroom, back hallway, kitchen and breakfast nook. It is 2 3/4″ (?) strip flooring. The house and the floors 7 years old. They got minwax stain and then 2 coats of satin oil based polyurethane when new. I’d like to re-coat them as they are showing a bit of wear. A lot of the areas are protected by oriental area rugs. There is no place where the finish is completely worn away, but if you get down on your hands and knees you can see 1000s of tiny scratches, from the dogs among other things. I’d really like to get this re-coated before the finish breaks through and a complete re-sand is necessary. Can the floor just be screened and then recoated?
At the time the floor was installed, I asked for 3 coats of poly but the guy suggested saving the money for the 3rd coat and getting it applied after several years to “refresh” the floors. Now I contact him and he says that he doesn’t want to do the job because there may be some residue from cleaners, etc on the floor which will cause it to fish-eye. I told him that was OK, that I’d take the responsibility. He said “OK – I’ll get back to you next week”…. 🙂 As far as cleaning other than sweeping, the floors have only been damp moped, and infrequently at that. Maybe a spot spill here or there was cleaned up with 409 or Fantastic, can’t really remember.
What are your experiences with recoating oil based poly coated floors? Is there a solvent that could be used to clean the floors prior to screening that would remove all/most residue that might be on there. Today while cooking breakfast I got a bit of bacon grease on the floor. This got me to thinking…
Replies
I'd just screen the floors. Recoat with TWO more coats of poly. More if you're so inclined.
If you screen the floors I see no reason to use any solvents first.
Just be sure to wipe the floors clean with some denatured alcohol before polying.
I have dreamt of an open world, borderless and wide... where the people move from place to place, and nobody's taking sides.. http://www.yusufislam.com
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
If more than one coat is going to be applied, the first should be a gloss poly since it's the most durable. The material added to reduce the gloss reduces the durability a noticable amount. If the guy is applying two coats of a satin, the guy isn't interested in the long-term durability. It doesn't cost more for gloss. It isn't more time consuming to apply. It's just good common sense.
Best of luck.
PS Good for you to refinish before the floor needs a total resand. Keep in mind that any dents or scratches may show through the new finish. Those may seem obvious at first, (especially if you get down to toe level!) but with a little normal wear and tear you'll forget all about it.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
That's pretty interesting about the gloss finish being more durable than satin. Hadn't heard that.
Regarding >> Keep in mind that any dents or scratches may show through the new finish. << I'm pretty meticleous in my work, but like to think of myself as a realist too. I've had my fill of customer who are worried about a nick the size of a pin head behind where the fridge will go.... ;-)
I've had my fill of customers who are worried about a nick the size of a pin head behind where the fridge will go.... ;-)
Don't you just love that!
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Gloss is more durable but that doesn't mean you won't see the scratches. In fact you will probably see more scratches.
The gloss is used under the matte finish to increase the over all durability of the floor.
I have dreamt of an open world, borderless and wide... where the people move from place to place, and nobody's taking sides.. http://www.yusufislam.com
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I would strongly consider re-coating with a water-based polyurethane.
I have installed over 2,000 sq.feet of 3/4 X 2 1/4 red oak in my house over the last 4 years. My floors were originally finished with oil based poly. After a lot of research I have re-coated the high traffic wear areas with water based poly and am very pleased with the results.
Water based finishes dry faster (as little as an hour between coats ), off gas less, and can be re-applied as necessary in the future with or without screening. From a technical perspective water based finishes are now harder and more protective than oil-based. Almost all commercial application are water base.
Finally regarding protective qualities, the difference between gloss and satin finishes is negligible, go with your personal preference.
you say you don't have to screen by using water base but to get all the bumps and imperfections out you should still screen it...wouldn't you say?
I have dreamt of an open world, borderless and wide... where the people move from place to place, and nobody's taking sides.. http://www.yusufislam.com
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
For optimum results I would absolutely agree. I have , on occassion, lightly sanded small areas and then applied an additional coat. There's an area my dogs hit pretty hard that requires annual attention.
So, you can apply waterbase over oil base? Interesting....
Anyone else want to comment on the durability of water base compaired to oil base poly floor finishes?
I've "heard" that there are great water base finishes. I've used some but I've nver done a side by side comparrison test over time.
I have however done quite a few side by side over time tests on other things especially in this house.
To me those "lab" tests as I call them aren't the same as actual living tests like I've done. But as I said...I haven't done the oil vs water test so I wouldn't stake my life on telling you whats best to do. All I can tell you is what I've heard.
I've done miles and miles of flooring over time and the next time I do another I'm pretty positive I'd go with oil yet again. Its simply just a gut feeling with me. With all the traffic I've had in this current house and the soft wide pine plank flooring I've installed here all I can tell you is its really wearing better than I even thought it would and thats using oil poly so thats all I can comment on from experiance.
To me...its NOT about whats easier to apply. Its whats best. You can check out some of my work on my web site below this post.
Good luck and
Be well
andy...
I have dreamt of an open world, borderless and wide... where the people move from place to place, and nobody's taking sides.. http://www.yusufislam.com
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
so what brand of poly do you like,i have used fabulon and minwax.both had plus and minus's.not sure which one of those outwear the other. larryhand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
Usually Fabulon but my supplier's been carrying something else exclusivly and I'm sorry but I forget the name of it. If you want I can find out.
In the past I used to love putting down moisture cure but those days are long gone. That stuff was killer...in more ways than one...lol.
I have dreamt of an open world, borderless and wide... where the people move from place to place, and nobody's taking sides.. http://www.yusufislam.com
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I used Varathane water borne on our pine floors, it's held up pretty well for more than 6 years, and under the pressure of a bunch of 120lb dog toe nails...but the next time I'd use Bona. The flooring guys I've used say it's easy to put down, and tough. Oh God said to Abraham, "Kill me a son"
Abe says, "Man, you must be puttin' me on"
God say, "No." Abe say, "What?"
God say, "You can do what you want Abe, but
The next time you see me comin' you better run"
Well Abe says, "Where do you want this killin' done?"
God says, "Out on Highway 61."
It's a fact, 2 component waterborne finishes are more durable than oil modified finishes. 2 component finishes contain a hardener which is added to the finish prior to coating.....sorta like fiberglass or an epoxy.
A good 2 pak finish will cost double or triple what an oil finish will cost....and because the hardener will catylize within a few hours of being added to the finish the waste factor is high.
The best finish period, imo, is Bona-Kemi "Traffic"
Pardon my ignorance, but what is "screening"?
Instead of regular sand paper, using fine mesh screens embedded with SiC (typically 100 gr or finer) to gently scuff the surface. Similar screens are used to sand drywall joint compound. Less clogging.
Gloss is no more durable than satin. Durability depends on solids content....the more solids the more durable. Inexpensive finish contains more solvent and less solids. If you were to compare the solids content of a quality finish like Bona-Kemi for instance you would see that all 3 of their sheens contain the same solids content.
All poly leaves the vat as gloss, flattening agent is added to reduce the refraction to make it less glossy.
Hey Rich, good to hear from you...how's the end grain flooring venture going? I've got a couple of projects in the works where it would look good<G> Oh God said to Abraham, "Kill me a son"
Abe says, "Man, you must be puttin' me on"
God say, "No." Abe say, "What?"
God say, "You can do what you want Abe, but
The next time you see me comin' you better run"
Well Abe says, "Where do you want this killin' done?"
God says, "Out on Highway 61."
Hey Man! How are you and Holly?
Haven't done anything since I've seen you guys....had a hip surgery and need another one next month.
Hey Man! How are you and Holly?Hey man, I am Holly, who would ever name a guy Sherry? HaSorry to hear about the hip surgeries, hope they're making things better. Sherry picked up a pair of Carolina Blue Chucks the other...we were thinking about you<G>Keep me posted when you get the flooring thing going.Good luck...be a florist<G> Oh God said to Abraham, "Kill me a son"
Abe says, "Man, you must be puttin' me on"
God say, "No." Abe say, "What?"
God say, "You can do what you want Abe, but
The next time you see me comin' you better run"
Well Abe says, "Where do you want this killin' done?"
God says, "Out on Highway 61."
Gloss is no more durable than satin.
That's simply not true. The talc used to flatten paint reduces the durability. You are righty that the base polyureathane is the same either way.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Don...better contact the chemists at Bona Kemi and correct them....I'm sure you're more informed about finish than they are.
Matt,
Bacon grease on an oak floor is definately a positive. In my experience floors with a slight splattering of fresh bacon grease not only look better, but smell better and are more appealing to a wide variety of critters, including me after a hard night on the floor.
I think you could clean the floor with mineral spirits. lightly screen, clean again with cheese cloth and mineral spirits, and recoate with oil-based. I recently used Minwax oil-based poly, satin, and was happy - though it did wipe out all traces of bacon grease.
Bart