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What is the best material to use in a joint where hardwood flooring (white ash)meets a tile floor. The joint is about 10 feet long and it is on a 9′ radius. I left a 1/4″ gap. Some folks have suggested “caulk” to allow for movement in the wood but haven’t come with a specific product. Is grout a bad idea?
Thanks,
Randy
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sika flex ( a marine caulk ) comes in different formulations.. it was developed as deck caulking.. this is good stuff..
a lot of the tremco products can also take the flex you're looking for..
a quarter inch is a little big ..check the specs...
*Metal insert with sikaflex caulk either side ?
*A few tile guys I know use a sanded caulking-the sand resembles the actual grout-the caulking staying flexable for expansion/contraction. I believe it comes in most or all common grout colorsgb
*Fill the joint to within 1/4" of the top with a flexible filler (I use plastic foam weatherstrip) then fill with a flexible caulk.If I want a finish color to match the timber, I mix clear silicone caulk (not the acetic acid cured) with a little very fine sawdust from the timber itself.
*I'm wondering how the cuts are on the radius? I'd go for a custom made ash threshold for the area, but I know it won't be cheap by anymeans. How much are you willing to spend?
*I'd go with GB. Your going to grout anyway, so just buy the same color latex sanded grout from the same manufacturer. It comes in tubes for caulking guns, and can be saved for later touchups if one closes it up good. As far as application, grout the tile job first with a clean edge, then after it has dried, tape off the tile edge and the wood edge. Fill the crack with the latex grout and using a 1" knife, flatten out the grout. Wetting the blade with water gives you a nice clean flat joint. Leave for 15 minutes and then peel the tape. Touch up any excess edge with a rag (t-shirt thickness) wrapped around your 1" knife wet. Try not to rub the total joint or it will come out uneven. People will look at this joint more than any other, so make it look good! GW
*Ken,I've already cut the tile and got a nice, clean radius. My finish carpenter already cut an ash threshold and it is also very clean. The 1/4" gap is between the ash threshold and the tile.Thanks,Randy
*Randy:I suppose it wasn't a large radius to work with and just a small slant? I suppose if the above suggestions are to your liking then go for it. I have a feeling the tile is lower than the hardwood, unless you've planned this out from the inception?Hard to tell w/o being on the site.
*We have just finished having wood flooring installed professionally next to ceramic tile. The installer (who is extremely well-thought of in our area) suggested a latex caulk in the 1/4" gap, but then, while the caulk is still wet, sprinkle in some of the actual grout powder used on the ceramic tile floor. That way, you'll have the flexibility of grout, but the identical (or close, anyway) color of the grout seams of the ceramic tile. Our installer did run a reducing strip the length of the room where the two applications met, and then used a biscuit joiner to end match and glue each butt end board to the feature strip. It's very lovely, but not a DIY project, for us, anyway. I'd like to tell you that the grout powder in the caulk joint turned out really nice, but we've been putting off doing it until ..............I was going to say until it warms up, but the truth is we're putting it off until we work up the courage to do it!
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What is the best material to use in a joint where hardwood flooring (white ash)meets a tile floor. The joint is about 10 feet long and it is on a 9' radius. I left a 1/4" gap. Some folks have suggested "caulk" to allow for movement in the wood but haven't come with a specific product. Is grout a bad idea?
Thanks,
Randy