I might end up being embarrassed for asking this if the answer is so obvious why I can’t do this. I have a house which is 100% “dryvit†type E.I.F.S. The owner wants to change the look to Hardy Shakes and imitation stacked stone. Typically the dryvit is removed down to the sheathing. I’m thinking about screwing p.t. furring strips thru the dryvit. Add ¼ sht’g to keep the hardy from buckling, Tyvek, then the hardy. This would keep the waterproof Dryvit membrane as backup and eliminate the huge cost of removing it. The same would be done for the stacked stone. Anchor metal lath to the furr strips. What think ye oh great ones?
Eric
South Carolina
Replies
huge cost of removal???
The things you would be doing to cover it as you detail would cost far more than taking that stuff off!
My concern goes to water. The biggest problems with EFIS are poor venting and flashing details. So if it is letting any moisture in to get trapped and cause mold or rot now, I don't know how this overlay would be flashed to do any better, esp at windows. And by leaving it in place, you make certain that you don't discover any potential problems to need fixing. That might be convenient but might not be professional - hide the hidden deeper so that it makes more trouble long term and costs more to fix eventually.
one advantage of the EFIS system is the insulation value, so it might be worth keeping if you can do spot checks and develop a plan to do all the flashings at intersections and penetrations well.
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This isn't being done to correct any water issues with dryvit. The Owner wants a different look. You are absolutely right about not covering up a problem. Adding furring strip is much less expensive. I can reflash the windows. I do not trust Dryvit, and was thinking that even if the furr strips would work, it may be better to remove the dryvit just so the windows can be inspected (which is what you are saying).
"This isn't being done to correct any water issues with dryvit. The Owner wants a different look. "I saw that in the first post.What I am saying, is how do you know there are no water issues.
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The first thing I think about is how much that would build out the exterior surface. Window casings would have to be removed, the jambs and sills extended, which creates more potential for water infiltration when things shift.
Another this is the extension of the fastening system. Hardie panels are heavy and what you'll end up with is all that weight being supported about 2" or more out from the house framing. It seems the whole system has the potential to sag, causing some areas to open, and the newly extended window jambs to rack.
Just some thoughts.
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Piffin: We agree, even IF the furring works and COST LESS, with all the problems we have had with E.I.F.S. it's better to remove and inspect. he is willing to pay for the removal so always do things 110 %.
Ted: Good point, it's not worth the risk
I appriciate you guys taking the time to respond.
Eric