OK, so here is the new thread. And please bear in mind, when posting, the word “codes” in the thread topic.
Tell us what your code prescribes for structural headers in bearing walls. Don’t tell us what your inspector says, quote the code: IBC, CABO, UBC, SBC, whatever.
Then tell us how you economize when the code will allow.
Here is the probable minimum. In the Taunton publication, “Graphic Guide to Frame Construction,” by Rob Thallon, revised edition, on page 74, detail A, non-bearing exterior walls have openings framed with a single flat 2x header, and no jacks are used. The topic is “advanced framing,” and the goal is to minimize material and cut down thermal bridging.
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I've never seen it done that cheap and don't expect that I ever will, except in those homes where people call me to fix problems that other builders leave behind, like cracks in sheetrock radiating from the corner of the window frame, or walls that shake and sway from slamming doors or high winds, or drapery rods that fall off the wall, taking a chunk of wallboard with them. This might be a good one for projects to build shacks for homeless peoiple who can't afford any better.
Excellence is its own reward!
I'm curious why you want us to quote only from codes, but you quote from a framing book?
Stop repeat offenders. Don't re-elect them
I agree with Piffin.
However, since you asked, CABO code, Section602.6, specifies header construction through a set of span tables that I'm too lazy to post here.
602.6.1 specifies "Single Headers" as follows: "Nominal 2-inch (51mm) single headers may be used to span openings in load-bearing walls, provided the headers are of adequate size to support all imposed loads."
Is that vague enough or ambiguous enough for you?
UBC Sec. 2517 para. 5: "Headers and lintels shall conform to the requirements set forth in this paragraph and together with their supporting systems shall be designed to support the loads specified in this code. And blah, blah, blah...."
Does that clear things up?
IMO headers are one of those building components that are so quick and easy to build. it seems a waste of time to scratch one's a s s or forehead trying to dream up a shortcut that will save a couple of short boards.
Jules Quaver for President 2004
1/2" cdx box headers... with foam or cellulose CABOMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Yea, it goes into that...I just didn't want to spend the time getting into all the header variations. If I did, I might as well write my own book. And that's usually what I do on Ext. walls.
Piffins comments about failures of wallboard and such are on point: In my opinion, from a practical standpoint, a header serves a function more than just supporting a load in many instances.
And this "advanced framing" thing; I once did a fairly complex addition designed by an Archy that spelled out advanced framing. Part of the concept is that trusses or joists are set directly over studs. And the plan called for trusses 24" OC which required studs be on 24" OC. I just went ahead and employed my own unadvanced framing with 16" OC studs and the inspector never noticed...and if he had, I doubt if he'd of bitched.
Jules Quaver for President 2004
Edited 1/18/2003 5:37:26 PM ET by Notchman
Mike, I understand how two pieces of CDX with 2x's in between can make a really solid torsion box. But I can't see how it fits in the wall like a regular header.
What do you use for the "spacers" at the top and bottom? If you're doing 2x6 walls, a 2x4 + 2 layers of 1/2" isn't quite thick enough to be flush on both sides.
Are you ripping an inch off the 2x6s?
Or are you holding the box header back from the face of the studs on one or both sides?
K
ken.. i don't build 2x6 walls.. 2x4... so 1/2" cdx + 2.5" (2x3) + 1/2"cdx + 3.5" ..
if i want more R-value , we build an energy wall.. which is not 2x6..
we were just talking about energy walls here....
http://forums.prospero.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=26654.31Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Always used(and still do) 2x12 with full 1/2" spacer for exterior walls and same for interior bearing walls.Double crips over 5'.Always use double sills.
Where window or door height is an issue,I've used 2x10 micro's in construction.
That's in residential,commercial work uses a lot if not all steel ,but that's another story.
When in doubt, overkill!!! If you cost out the lumber used in headers for a typical home, it doesn't amout to much. There have got to be better places to economize. I never agree with sacrificing structure. Besides the foundation, corners cut in structure probably cause the next largest amount of callbacks, and who wants those. But, I've been accused of over building. Guilty as charged!
Brudoggie
>>When in doubt, overkill!!!
What cheaper insurance policy can you have than overkill such as this that is relatively inexpensive now but very expensive or impractical to change later. It's a small handful of extra materials and hardware in the right places that give the homeowner freedom from problems he shouldn't have.
I couldn't agree more.
When I was framing, which was from the mid-70's up till last year, I was constantly guilty of over-kill. I guess I kept thinking of the people who were going to be the (hopefully) proud owners of their dream home, even if it was a 1000 sq.ft. slammer. I overheadered if I ever had any doubts. I'm not in big snow country, but we do have a winter here (Idaho) and the codes call for a 4x8 header up to a 6 ft opening and 9-1/2 inch micros on longer than that on bearing walls. Even though the gable ends are theoretically non bearing, I still went with the 2x6-1/2"ply sandwich header on them,just to be safe. I saw some of the "L" headers Gene Davis described for non-bearing situations, but figured, "Why notch the upper cripples if I don't have to?" and just laid two boards horizontally for the header so I had 3" of wood for bearing that might occur through settling or other unforeseen occurances and 3" of wood to nail trim to, also. It didn't slow down my framing by requiring extra cuts and I figured it did a good quality job. Thats my 2 cents worth