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I am currently remodeling a kitchen, and I am going to knock out two walls that were “boxing” in the kitchen and open it up to the family room. One of the walls is a load bearing wall, so obviously I need to support it somehow (the span is 9.5 ft.). My first thought is to use 4’x12′ solid wood supported by a 4’x4′ post so I can put a nice finish of some sort on it, seeing as it will be exposed. Just wondering if anyone has any other suggestions about types of materials, dimensions of materials, etc. Thank you for any feedback!
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Pete,
You'd be wise to have a structural engineer caluclate the load and recommend the proper size support for your load. You may need less bulk than you think. You may need more. Don't forget that you're transfering the load to another location on the foundation. You need a pier under the legs or something depending on your foundation. What's under the legs that will hold up this header? You can't rest it on open floor or even on a floor joist. It's got to transfer to the foundation or you got problems. If it's a slab house, you might end up with a crack in your slab.
Structural engineering is not a DIY thing.
Do the smart thing and call a residential structural engineering company. Even if you have to find one out of the yellow pages.
Ed. Williams
*Dear Ed, I should have added the information that the wall is on the second story of a platform framed house, with a flat california roof (no trusses). Is it still vital to get an engineer involved? I thought I could just install a header with specs to local codes, and use material as if I were just framing a door opening. I appreciate your wisdom, and won't start until I hear back from you (thanks again).peter v.
*Hey Pete,My wisdom is limited to things I have done and seen in the past. I have learned most of what I know through 26 years of on the job continuing training.This is what I love about this business. We always run into something we've never done before.If it were my house or my project, then yes, I would talk with a structural engineer about stress loads and spans. These guys went to school to learn this stuff for a reason. It's not for the average guy like me or you.That's what I'd do.Good luck,Ed.
*Peter, a 9.5 span can get into some serious weight calculations. The fact that it is on the second floor complicates the matter. you will be required to transfer the weight through the first floor, and down to the foundation. If you fail anywhere, you will wish you had spoke to a professional.Find an architect, engineer, or contractor that knows how to get the job done. Don't ask your uncle.blue
*Your idea of framing this like a door has merit. The wall you are removing must be an interior load bearing wall.My ICC code book indicates that 2-2x10's spanning 10' will support a roof with a 10' tributary load. Your 2-2x12's should be addequate for a 15' tributary load.A second issue is as important. Your 4x4 posts will put a concentrated load on the first floor wall and the second floor joists. I hope there is something under the posts, like NOT a door way. I would make sure that the wall below is built to support the posts. I would solid block the joist area and put a 4x4 post below the blocking.
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I am currently remodeling a kitchen, and I am going to knock out two walls that were "boxing" in the kitchen and open it up to the family room. One of the walls is a load bearing wall, so obviously I need to support it somehow (the span is 9.5 ft.). My first thought is to use 4'x12' solid wood supported by a 4'x4' post so I can put a nice finish of some sort on it, seeing as it will be exposed. Just wondering if anyone has any other suggestions about types of materials, dimensions of materials, etc. Thank you for any feedback!