I have been using a small cord reel for my power from the outside temporary outlet to the inside of the houses I build. In Japan where I am, that’s usual. Until a few years back I had a really heavy yellow cord from the US that I used and attached a power bar to it, and it worked really well, there didn’t seem to be any drop in power, even over long stretches. My cord reel power cord now is a lot thinner, and drops a lot of power along the way….my saws, etc. don’t seem to have as much power anymore. I want to get another heavy guage cord from the US…
What kind of heavy duty power cords are available? What guages, etc. should I be looking for in my next cord? If I attached a power bar to the end of the cord, will the power drop?
I’m a carpenter, but I don’t have any clue about electrical things, sorry…
Any advice would help…
SS
Replies
Buy a good 10/3 Polar Solar cord in either 50' or 100'
and, get a couple of the polar solar 4 socket splitters...I've had three of them for seven years...every outlet still works! Someone's got it in for me, they're planting stories in the press
Whoever it is I wish they'd cut it out but when they will I can only guess.
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She inherited a million bucks and when she died it came to me.
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10/3 for 50' or 100'. My 10/3 is one I made up thirty-some years ago with a 4-way box and a heavy duty male plug.
I have a couple of 12/3 cords in 25' lengths which are very useful, easy to pick up and drag around when I need to move the saw and horses. I plug those into the 4-way on the 10/3.
and do it now!
That power drop your experienceing is damageing your tools.
Running tools on lower voltyage weakens them and overheats them and the cord.
I have #10/3 made up by my electrician with a box that has two GFCI circuits for a total of four recepticles.
Actually, now that I think of it, there is one GFCI and one normal. The table saw makes a GFCI run flinky.
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Gotta throw in a vote for the 10 gage. I've got a yellow black 100' from Despot a while ago; about $70. Must weigh 30#. Learned my circular saws were dying from the voltage drop on a cheap cord.
Forrest
I too am a fan of the Polar/Solar brand cords, since they are more pliable and less prone to kinking when you roll them up.
I don't use a cord reel, and I buy them in 25' lengths, since I found that size much easier to to roll up than the longer cords.
http://tinyurl.com/3aoyjy
They also make a four-way outlet block:
http://tinyurl.com/33qly4
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Thanks for all your suggestions. I know just what I'm looking for now...
Appreciate your help,
SS
I use yellow jacket cords, I know many here also do. The cords are flexible in temps below zero and wear very well in tough conditions. They also have the lighted ends which are nice.http://www.amazon.com/Woods-100-Foot-Extension-PowerLite-2806/dp/B0009IAXSWAlso, check out the power block, they are cheap and very good instead of a power strip.http://www.amazon.com/Woods-Yellow-5-Outlet-Outdoor-Adapter/dp/B000HJDB9Q/ref=sr_1_10/002-6973908-0736864?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1184979559&sr=1-10
Tatekata, you might also consider that whatever gauge cord your purchase, electrical performance is lessened when power flows through a partially rolled up cord.
The electrical field generated by the current flow creates heat. In a cord with closely packed coils this effect is concentrated, which iirc increases resistance, thus further reducing voltage to your power tools. Best to completely unwind any cord, whether it is on a reel or not.
Electricians on this site can probably clarify this for you.
In addition to the fine advice about cords; in parts of japan the power is alternating at fifty hertz. I worked there for a bit 10 years ago and was told this would make our tools run a bit slower. It seemed to be true.
Thanks for the advice. I have noticed the lower voltage difference, and some tools just don't work-compressors and such, but others are just fine. I use mostly Japanese electrical tools, and buy my air nailers, battery powered tools from the US.
SS