Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 11, 2000 10:19pm | #1

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   The studs on the sides of the windows are almost certainly there -- you can't hit these? As for nothing inbetween, not surprising. The sole plate plus some adhesive may work? No, wait -- you say there's 5/4 sheathing board under the gypsum? That should be plenty of nail base with a bunch of cross-nailing, no?

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 12, 2000 04:44am | #2

   *If you ever strip off the int. cov. of some of these old babies you would be amazed at what isn't there. As Andrew says, the sheeting should give you enough bite to mount the base. However, if you feel no resistance to your nail when hunting for those dbls at the window, maybe they be rotted out and are not telling the sensor the whole story. Also, they tended to nail alongside sometimes or just made a door opening a window at a later date. Many stories in those old ones. And at 1904, it ain't even old. Best of luck.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 12, 2000 07:08am | #3

   *I guess what you are saying is that a 16 ga. casing nail is not long enough to reach the studs? Jeez, you got 3/4 plus 1/2 plus 3/4, which by my math (let me take off my socks) is 2". Your casing nail should be a little longer than that.Dunno what to say. Get some old coat hanger wire, and fish around, and see if you are hitting or are close to the stud. You may not be deep enough, or could be to one side. I would think that between some construction adhesive and nails the 3/4 sheating should be enough to hold base board. The cross nailing to the plate would be my last resort.Whatever moron remdudled this room should be forced to install the base. Another reason that blocking is so important!

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 12, 2000 07:18am | #4

   *Poke a hole in the wall and look. Do it behind where the baseboard will cover it. I usually do the hanger wire/long screw driver/ anything handy to poke around with thing. It is absolutely amazing how crazily those older homes are framed and they are still standing.Pete

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 15, 2000 05:48am | #5

   *You know the old saying..."They sure don't build em like they used to". Well I say its a damned good thing that they don't!

2. 
   geoff_murray | Jan 15, 2000 09:55am | #6

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   I would try some 2and a half inch trim head screws, predrilled through the trim material amd maybe even through the one inch sheathing. If properly filled these can be less
   noticable than a couple of cross nailed brads.

3. 
   Guest_ | Jan 15, 2000 12:49pm | #7

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   I put money that the 4/4 sheating is really lath and plaster. Stud finders like Goretex probably became usefull items after they had induced me to purchase their early crappy products. Perhaps I hold a grudge too long but now I don't care if they work as designed or not.

   I thought that casing nails are studfinders.

   joe d

4. 
   K._Wiseman | Jan 16, 2000 01:40am | #8

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   I live in one of those old dogs, mine's from 1845.
   The walls are plaster over solid wood lath (wood boards on the interior, usually 4/4 or 5/4 lumber with dovetail grooves to hold the plaster).
   The nice thing is that it's easy to insulate, no fire stop or exterior sheathing - just siding on studs.

   I've never been able to get a good reading from a stud finder though plaster let alone plaster and solid lath.
   I wouldn't trust the meter. the best thing to do is make a hole.
   Another thing, don't expect standard framing practices like 16" O.C. (it will be more like 18" to 20"), headers, sills, etc.....

5. 
   Don_H | Jan 16, 2000 01:42am | #9

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   I'm enlarging a smoking room in a 1904 southern victorian. I am putting in baseboards. The material is 3/4" pine going over 1/2 " gypson which is over 4/4" whatever sheathing boards (some local wood). Under a 30" window there are no in between studs. Under the end of each side of the window my stud sensor shows double studs. I've driven in 16d casing nails and haven't touched a thing. Any ideas?