Hi all, i just bought a Porter Cable 126, i was reading the manual an i noticed the sugested bevel for a door is 10 deg. ?? HUH that seems like way to much. i usually do both sides esp cause a lot of old openings have a lot of paint on them, also i could not get a straight ans for this one. What part of the hinge goes on the door, tha one with 2 knuckels, or three, i really would like your feed back on this
thanks
Replies
Two or three degrees is fine. Must have beeen a misprint or somebody at the printer's was having a good joke.
Just like your last question. Joking - right?
Excellence is its own reward!
There was a discussion not too long ago about which half of the hinge goes on the door, and it was re-printed, in part, in a recent issue of FHB. If the pin can only go in the hinge one way, be sure to mount the hinge so the pin goes in from the top. Other than that, the general consensus was that it doesn't really matter. FWIW, I just installed a set of pre-hung double french doors, and 5 hinges were mounted 3 knuckles on the door and 1 hinge was 2 on the door.
Do it right, or do it twice.
Its been 3 degrees ever since I can remember .
Tim Mooney
Yeah but as you get older, your memory gets shorter, LOL.
Excellence is its own reward!
Yea , and ,....
Tim Mooney
Tims memory serves him well
3 deg.
I've heard 3 on the hinge side and 5 on the strike.
Ken Hill
Ken
I've heard that to someplace but I know that we always put 3 on each side, but what the hecks a couple of degrees omongst(theres no way thats a word) fellow woodworkers.
Doug
I use 6-7/8 because that was my father's hat size. :-)
Niko
The bevel on a door varies depending upon the width of the door and the margin or gap you allow on the striker jamb. For example, a 3'-0" door doesn't need a bevel to close properly because of the wide arc the door swings through. A small door like a 1'-6" needs a bevel of 5° to close properly because of the smaller arc the door swings through. The margin, or width of the gap down the striker side of the door comes into play as well as the thickness of the door you are hanging. A 2" door may need a bevel where a standard 1 3/8" interior door may not. I typically cut my header jambs 3/16" wider than the measured width of the top of the door after beveling. I normally run a margin the width of two nickels held together down the striker jamb and one nickel on the hinge side. My doors work forever, and because of the larger gap, are unaffected by humidity or extra coats of paint. Some guys I know run margins the size of a dime but I have always considered this just showing off and begging for a problem when the weather changes. Three knuckles on a heavy door so you have something to push on when you set the hinge.
3'-0" door 0°
2'-8" door 1°
2'-6" door 2°
2'-4" door 3°
2'-0" door 4°
smaller than 2'-0" door 5°
Turtleneck
The only difference between a rut and a grave is depth
Im impressed . That was a good post . Just one thing , .... I was taught to center the door in the hole for a constant reveal. Interresting that some people try to crowd the striker jamb.
Tim Mooney
I find that 95% of doors swing to a wall and only concern myself with the beauty of the hinge side margin if the door is of the other 5% variety and visible from the common side (hall closet, double doors etc). Turtleneck
The only difference between a rut and a grave is depth
"The only difference between a rut and a grave is depth"
The definiton of a rut is a grave with both ends knocked out. Don't get in a rut..
Excellence is its own reward!
"The definiton of a rut is a grave with both ends knocked out."
I liked that Turtleneck
I enjoyed the foot-rest business but was soon overrun with stool samples
The margin one gets on the hinge side, presuming the hinge leaves are set flush into mortises, is strictly dependent on the hinge "swage." Swage is the offset given hinge leaves, face-to-face when closed, as they are manufactured in a sequential press. The typical hinge used in exterior residential doors, when viewed closed, but with leaves parallel, has about 0.060, or close to 1/16", swage. With a door opening 3/16" wider than the door, using these hinges, you will see twice the margin on the strike side as on the hinge side. The only way I know to get a "centered" look is to either try to bend some more swage into the hinges, or machine shallower mortises, setting the hinges somewhat proud of the door edge and jamb face surfaces. IMHO, centering is nice, but it comes and goes as the humidity changes, for wood doors.
Swage, In 20 years I've never heard that term applied to hinges. In Blacksmithing a swage is a grooved block. Are you sure you're the Professor? ;~) Turtleneck
Its not a smile- its a cramp
Although you should be correct, the term has been misused often enough and persistently enough that Mr. Micro is also correct.
The tool that's used to form the knuckles and set the offset is called a swage; the act of forming the knuckle is called "swaging" and different offsets are descibed as how the hinge has been "swaged" (e.g. a hinged may have been one-leaf full swaged or both leaves half swaged). Lately, "swage" has been misused as the result, and not the act (e.g. instead of "the hinge was swaged to give a 1/16" interleaf clearance" in catalog shorthand this has become: "the hinge has a 1/16 swage").
http://web.mountain.net/sootypaws/Blacksmithing/hinge/hinge1.html
http://www.weber-knapp.com/help/hingeterms.html
http://www.pbbinc.com/catalog/hinge_swaging.htm.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Very informative, thanks for the heads up Phil Turtleneck
Its not a smile- its a cramp
When I was in the door biz, we shipped regular container loads of product to a UK distributor. They bought slabs and some lites and used the hinges we supplied them, but not liking the margin produced by the factory swaging, they built a rework press. One at a time, they inserted unassembled hinge leaves into the feed, and re-pressed the knuckles so as to yield a hingeside margin of 1/8". That's what they wanted, to get equal margins of 3mm on both edges of the door.
This is a bit off the track of the thread, but what do the pros use to close the gap between double, exterior entrance doors? I am planning to replace my front doors, but I don't want to use a cover strip to seal the gap between the doors. Also, should the active door (the one that always opens) have a bevel as at the bottom?
Being more of an amateur cabinetmaker, I haven't tried anything on this scale. I have two books on doors, one by John Birchard, the other by Scott McBride. Neither mention this issue.
Thanks for any help.Dan T.
I think not using a stop, or a cover piece would be a mistake. Especially when the wind blows, or it rains. Check with your local door suppliers showrooms and design your own around a design that a company will warranty. Turtleneck
Its not a smile- its a cramp
Thanks. I thought that would be the answer, but I think the doors would look much better plain.Dan T.
I'd have to agree that an astragal would be prudent to keep out the elements. However, I have a pair of salvaged exterior doors that solved the problem by having opposing rabbits on the latch side. The lockset edge also follows the rabbit. Still, these doors overlooked Lake Erie and a set of french storm doors helped keep out the driving rain.__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Thanks for the input.Dan T.