Hi,
I’m planning on building a patio with one side having a curved 24″ high wall and I have a couple of questions,
1) How do I lay out the Arc line.
2) How should I do the cap.
3) Not had the slab poured yet but should it follow the intended arc or just get it oblong and lay out on top of it.
All help appreciated,
Mike
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I'm not a mason...so I can't offer advice on the capping end....
But as far as the arc.....do you want something specific (i.e. a set radius)
If so, you can use a spike as a center point and mason line to help work as a compass.
If not, try a can of spray paint and just freehand an arc on the ground till you find one that "flows" right.
Depending on how great the arc is, you could end up pouring much more concrete for your slab than necessary as an oblong. Dig and pour as close to the actual design as you can.
Much luck.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I've used the set-up shown here. There are many variations on this basic theme.
I built a serpentine retaining wall last year that was about 90' long.
I used a 1x4 as a trammel to lay out the curves.
I drilled a hole in the end of the board to receive a funnel, and several holes the size of my form stakes along the length of the board for various different radii.
To use my layout jig, I stuck my funnel into the end of the board, filled it with flour, and pivoted the board while tapping it with my hammer.
The customer and I stepped back, looked at it, and where he wanted to make changes, I erased the line with a lawnmower.
When we were satisfied, I made the line permanent for the excavator with paint.
I don't know exactly what you're doing, but you probably want a curved slab. Use the center-pivot technique above, skip the flour, and locate form stakes (these are usually about 3/4" dia. x 2' long) directly off of the pivot board. Bend your form wood around these stakes. If you have a tight radius, multiple strips of 1/4" tempered Masonite work well.
If the slab will not be visible, you're ready to pour -- maybe grease your stakes so that the concrete won't stick. The notches left by the stakes won't ever be seen.
If your slab will be exposed, now go back and drive wood stakes on the OUTSIDE of the form, screw your form boards to these, and then remove the metal stakes.
AitchKay
I've used a garden hose to lay out a pleasing curve. The heavier duty ones are a bit stiffer and will be better for larger radius bends. The lighter ones are more flexible and will be better for tighter curves. once you get the curve you want, you can use paint or a shovel to make a more permanent mark.
I would lay out the arc in the slab, and follow it with the wall.
Depending on what you want, you can go about it a couple of ways.
One is to just bend the bender board for the concrete forms by eye. You don't get a nice "regular" curve, but it will be clean, and should tie in the the straight edges it ties into nicely, with out any strange angles where the curve meets the straight line.
Second, you can scribe a circle by just setting a center, and swinging an arc of however long you want. You can lay out an elliptical curve, by setting two pins, and then setting the curve using a string tied to both pins.
Third, you can do the math, or use a cad program to give you offsets from a straight line to points on the curve very foot or so, and then connect the dots.
Not knowing what you are building the wall out of, I have no idea on how to cap it.
If you just want to layout an arc, you can use 1 or 2 pieces of 1/2 PVC pipe. Secure one end at your starting point and bend the pipe to an arc that you like.
I use this technique when laying out scored bands over OH doors on stucco finishes
I personally would form the slab to the arc. There is no need for chipping, etc. if the other side of the wall will be visible.
Mike,
Yes, thanks. I've used the same technique on some of my woodworking projects. Wasn't sure if it would work on the larger scale. It's only a slight arc so I think that'll work fine.
Thanks to all, thank you.
Mikey