Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 09:04am | #1

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   Dale - if you had both types of skill saw I guess that would work. Have you thought of a 3hp router with a 45 degree bit? - jb

2. 
   Rich_B. | Jun 23, 1999 05:32pm | #2

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   See the back issues of FHB. They had an article on this subject.

3. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 08:49pm | #3

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   Dale,

   Your best approach in my opinion would be to cut the stringer/skirt board with a skill saw. I would set the saw to about 47 degrees, the guide is optional. I would then cut the risers with a CMS set at 45 degrees. This will allow play between both materials and produce a fine joint line.

   Joseph Fusco

   View Image

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 09:35pm | #4

   *See FHB #114.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 25, 1999 05:07am | #5

   *Dale,The router is a good option. Otherwise you will need a regular circular saw to cut one side, and a worm drive ( the table tilts the other direction ) saw for the other side.Good luck.Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 25, 1999 06:11am | #6

   * Gentlemen,

   I just have to flat out disagree with the use of a router to cut open stringers. A good quality jig saw or hand saw are better choices then a router.

   Joseph Fusco View Image

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 26, 1999 05:00am | #7

   *Joe,I would have agreed with you last year, but I hired a carpenter recenty who did a stair for me and used a router to cut the outside mitres of a stair and did a beautiful job, Quickly. It takes a big router and a big bit.I was impressed.Jig saw? Great idea if you make a shoot board to guide it and keep the cut straight. There can be a lot of drift with the wrong jig saw.Hand saw? I'm in favor of that, but it depends on the sawyer using the saw. Skill comes into play. If you're not used to using a hand saw, expect disaster.Ed. Williams

2. 
   Guest_ | Jun 26, 1999 08:19am | #8

   *Am I the only one that would use my makita power saw, for both stringers?You have to back the saw into the left side stringer.Anyways, thats how I did it in carpenter school. The instructor told me that it was too dangerous.I think driving to work is far more dangerous.Maybe I better stay home tomorrow!blue

3. 
   Guest_ | Jun 26, 1999 09:39am | #9

   *Joe - I have never had much luck doing fine work with a jig saw. Especially something as exacting as a mitered riser/stringer joint. Handsaw either. If you say you can, I believe you. Different "strokes" for different folks. HEY! I just made a funny! Get it? We're talking about saws...that cut with strokes...get it? - jb

4. 
   Guest_ | Jun 26, 1999 04:14pm | #10

   *Blue,

   Blue, your not, I do it sometimes but, do you think I would have suggested it with the way that this thread was going? JB, I have a Bosch Jig saw and yes I use it for "fine" woodworking. As far as the router goes. . . GLP

   Joseph FuscoView Image

5. 
   Guest_ | Jun 26, 1999 07:08pm | #11

   *JB,

   Here's a stair and handrail recently done. No router, except for the housed stringer along the wall.

   Joseph FuscoView Image

6. 
   Guest_ | Jun 26, 1999 07:42pm | #12

   *Blue thats how I would do it and have done it , with a simple site built cutting guide and a slow steady hand . JB , a Bosch jig saw with a fresh blade is almost a surgical insturment IMO. Chuck

7. 
   Guest_ | Jun 26, 1999 10:17pm | #13

   *Joe - looks good. What does "GLP" mean? I guess i'm gonna have to look into those jig saws. That's one of the problems with workin' alone so long, and one of the great things about exchanging ideas with other pros at this site. - jb

8. 
   Guest_ | Jun 26, 1999 10:21pm | #14

   *Chuck! You live! I was just about to send out the state patrol! - jb

4. 
   Dormer_Woodridge | Jun 26, 1999 11:20pm | #15

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   Circular saws are the way to go. And yes you will need one that tilts left and one that tilts right. The key to getting near perfect cuts is to build a saw sled or shooting board. The sleds we use we make out of 1/4" MDF. The sled acts as a fence or guide and a spacer all in one. To build the sled cut a piece of MDF 10" or so wide and one 5" or so. Staple or nail the 5" piece on the 10" piece flush with one edge. Than take your saw set at the angle that you are using (45+ degrees) and running the table of the saw against the 5" piece cut through the 10" piece. Your sled is now ready to use. Mark your cut and clamp the sled exactly on the line you have marked and cut away. The only other thing we do for ease of use is to stick sand paper strips to the under side of the sled to keep it from moving in use. If you have the sand paper and are careful you can do without the clamps. When the sled edge gets frayed we clean up the 5' piece by sawing it back on a table saw. I have sleds that have lasted months with constant use. Take the money you saved on buying and compond miter saw and spend it on your lover. It will be a far better investment.

   Good Luck

   Dormer

5. 
   Guest_ | Jun 28, 1999 08:19am | #16

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   Friends,

   Just got back to this one.

   I can't believe you would suggest "backing" a skil saw into the material.

   Do that on my job, and you can pay for your own medical bill.

   Gotta disagree on that one.

   Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 28, 1999 08:48am | #18

   *I won't do it on your job, and I have paid my own medical bills for the past 20 years.Funny, I didnt mention cutting skin!Backing a saw in can be done slowly. If it' to scary for you, don't try it.but it's no big deal, unless you aren't holding it tight (of course I do!). If the saw grabs, and runs, you will ruin the material.blue

6. 
   Dale_Atkins | Jun 28, 1999 08:48am | #17

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   I will soon be building a interior staircase that is exposed on both sides and has the risers mitered into the side boards.What is the best way to cut the miters on the side boards,a sliding compound miter saw or skill saw with a guide?? thanks DALE