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I am about to start reroofing a ranch with a second storey at one end. Since there is only one layer of shingles (basic 3 tab), the customer does not want it stripped. The problem then is in dealing with the step flashing along the addition where the sidewalling is clapboard. Do I strip the current layer back a few feet along the addition and roof and flash like I would if the roof were bare? Or is there a way of flashing/caulking without having to tear into the clapboards? I have done plenty of roofing jobs, but surprisingly I have never run into this situation before. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Todd H. Smith
Burlington, MA
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Todd, I hope you get a lot of response on this. Here's what I've seen commonly done, but it seems a little sleazy: if the flashing has never leaked and looks to be in good shape they just add their new layer of shingles and rely on old roof and step flashing. You could make the argument that now there is just thicker shingling on an intact roof. I've seen plenty of galv. flashing that still looks ok 50 years old. When I am 70 years old I may do this on the roof I'm just now finishing on my own house at 50. I think to do it right you'll have to pull the flashing out from behind the siding and slide new up behind. If you are lucky they didn't nail it up there.
*I built the addition, so I know that it is nailed off. The flashing is the basic aluminum type. While the roof is 25 years old, it is in relatively good shape, particularly in that area. Aside from the time involved in stripping the old back, I am primarily concerned with there being a swale heading torwards the addition if I do so. (A matter of asthetics as well as having water flowing towards wood) The claps are relatively close to the shingle line, so there isn't a whole lot of wiggle room to double up (if I go with the strip back) and avaoid a swale
*Todd, have you ever had any leaks in that area? Seems like before Ice & Water Shield came along step flashing was the only protection at the intersection of roof and wall. If you only have the thin guage step flashing now, and the clapboards are showing any signs at all of moisture damage, I'd consider redoing that area so you won't have to in 10 or 15 years. Run Ice & Water along the roof, up the sidewall, then tarpaper and stepflash as usual. More money now, but guarantees long life.On the other hand if it ain't broke don't fix it....Mike
*Or as Grampy would say; "If it ain't broke, don't break it!" Seems that too much thinking is dangerous. At least in this case. I dropped by the site, climbed up and pulled back the tabs against the wall. Basically its: knit one, pearl two, just a matter of weaving in the shingles with the step flashing. A little dab of tar to hold down the flashing, and away I will go. Oh, and when I installed the claps I left a gap of 3/4 of an inch between the cut and the shingles to prevent the possibility of wicking water. Behind the flashing there is an 18" lap of Ice & Water shield, as well as a pressure treated sole plate. I am sure I will be long dead before that puppy rots out!Thanks guys, I appreciate your help.
*Install a flashing square on top up every reroof shingle, and slip it under a step flashing on the next shingle up. That will drain water onto the new roof.
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I am about to start reroofing a ranch with a second storey at one end. Since there is only one layer of shingles (basic 3 tab), the customer does not want it stripped. The problem then is in dealing with the step flashing along the addition where the sidewalling is clapboard. Do I strip the current layer back a few feet along the addition and roof and flash like I would if the roof were bare? Or is there a way of flashing/caulking without having to tear into the clapboards? I have done plenty of roofing jobs, but surprisingly I have never run into this situation before. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Todd H. Smith
Burlington, MA