Hello!
What is the best way of fixing plaster walls? I can knock off all the plaster, take off the lathing and then sheet rock or is it acceptable to sheetrock over the existing plaster, say with 1/4 inch sheetrock. Is it better just to remove the plaster that has separated from the lathing and patch those area? The area in question is a entryway/hallway so the surface area is not to large>
Opinions please!
Thanks
Replies
It's hard to say without seeing it. Generally, I like to save as much original plaster as possible, provided it's in decent shape -- not going to fall on your head anytime soon. I've saved plaster that was coming loose when I had access to the other side to squirt aliphatic resin glue between the lath and then push the plaster back up into place. There are also plaster washers and screws for securing plaster when you don't have access to glue it. For areas that are too far gone, usually from water damage, the best idea is to demo back to the studs, and put up USG Rocklath or blue board, then skim coat with real plaster, not drywall mud. This is one of the few things I hire a pro to do. The skill isn't easy to pick up, so a good plasterer is well worth it.
I haven't looked recently, but there was a great site called http://www.ornamentalplaster.com that had a lot of info on the simple wall and ceiling stuff, too.
-- J.S.
Edited 1/7/2005 6:31 pm ET by JOHN_SPRUNG
As long as you remember the jam extensions on the doors it is possible. I have done this in rooms without a problem. 1/4" works just fine over plaster.
Oh yeah, the screws need to be longer too. Depending on how thick the plaster is, 1 3/4" or 2" should be fine.
If you can't salvage the plaster, you could overlay the stuff with 1/4 or 3/8" DW, but the effect is less than desirable. The DW is so thin that telegraphing is often a problem, and must be hung with many screws to keep it flat. Also, anything less than 1/2" on the ceiling will cause sagging. As mentioned, door jambs will need extensions, as will window jambs. You might also bury other trim details, if not careful, like the trim on stair stringers, or the stringers themselves, depending on the original trim configuration.
Bottom line, when on a project where plaster has deteriorated, I usually strip the plaster and lath and drywall the entire room. It's not a fun job (nor a popular option in some places) but around these parts, people generally want DW and are willing to give up the plaster.
I have repaired significant cracks in plaster by cleaning them out and filling in with a thick mix of Durabond.
I recently removed a ton and a half of plaster/lath from a bedroom. (Literally a ton and a half! I took it to a transfer station where you pay based on weight.)
For me it was a simple decision. It was my own property. Removing it allowed me to do some structural work and insulate the entire room. It was very messy, hard work.
-Mark
I've used 1/4" but was surprised to find it difficult to work with. Being so thin there was no soft area below the surface paper that would allow a DW screw a place to dimple. It was all hard baked gypsum and didn't compress like 3/8" does. Since 1/4" will have you extending jambs go with the 3/8".
If the plaster allows I would rather use plaster washers and fiberglass, either Nu-Wall or a 3' wide roll that is self adhesive - it's really just wide tape, topped with Durabond.
Other considerations like electrical, insulation, or structural might impact your decision. Then opening to the studs is a great opportunity to do the things you want to do.
Armet
On one house I worked on the entryway was all arch and coved ceiling. The plasterer nailed new metal lath over all the old plaster and replastered. The lath was nailed on securely to hold everything tight to the framing.
Tom
Another option if you're only dealing with cracks and minimal super loose stuff is to top coat the whole thing. It is possible to obtain rolls of the drywall mesh seam tape before its cut into individual rolls. They are about 42" long and oh what a time saver. It takes a bit of looking to find this stuff though. I got mine through a friend in Maine who got it from N. Carolina and then shipped it to LA. But what do I know? I'm just a carpenter.
I did a whole house in 1/4" over the plaster. It was my house so I took some liberties. I put all purpose drywall mud on the back of it with a notched trowel before I screwed it to the walls with 1 1/2" core screws. They have a thicker core to them so they compress the material around them more. I didn't bother to hit studs. They were just to keep the sheet in place while the mud dried. The all purpose acted like a glue. I didn't do ceilings this way though. Those were torn out and drywalled. I only had a few ceilings that had water damage and were sagging
All the trim was removed and the new trim had a 1/4" return on it to bring it to the jams. I glued and brad nailed 1/4" X 1/4" pieces on all the trim before installation. If the 1/4" x 1/4" piece didn't line up just right I just sanded them flush.
It sure made for a thick covering on the walls. I think the shear strength it gave the walls helped when we had an earthquake.
Edited 1/8/2005 10:25 am ET by david
If the problem areas are not too large (1 square foot or less) I would recomend patching quick-dry mud followed by several coats of lightweight mud. First spray water of the lathe and allow it to soak in for a couple of minutes. Staple a scrap of old storm window screen to the lathe and scim the quick -dry over the screen making sure some goes through the holes. 1/2 inch thick . Follow with enough coats of lightweight mud to bring level to surface of plaster. 3/16 inch or less per coat.
If you laminate wall with 1/4 inch sheetrock you will lose 1/4 reveal on all your trim around windows and doors. Crown and base can be adjusted fairly easily.
> I think the shear strength it gave the walls helped when we had an earthquake.
Drywall doesn't have a whole lot of shear strength, but it does add a lot of weight. My guess is that it's a net negative earthquake wise.
-- J.S.
I have had really good luck with this http://www.spec-chem.com/nuwal/index.htm
Used it in one room about 6 or seven years ago and not a single crack has reappeared. Just used in another about two months ago. very happy with the results.
I just encountered this same situation and spent lots of time reseaching how best to approach the job. The house I am working on is dated 1820 and I did not want to use sheetrock for repairs- I cleaned off the old broken plaster and anchored big sections with plaster washers. I then back cut the holes and cracks and painted thoroghbond on the entire surface. On top of this I put 1 1/2' fiberglass tape over lapping the edges a bit-on the whole room. On top of that I used durabond 90 a thick mix to hold in the large patches. 2nd coat I thinned a bit more to really cover the tape with a good hard surface. The final coat- which I will be doing on monday- will be joint compound. This technique was given to me be a plaster restorer in my area. So far the job looks great- though VERY labor intensive. Good Luck- Hazel8