My brother in law is in the planning and contract stages of his new home to be built. The builder is already attached to the site – no choice there.
The house next door is being built by the same builder and was nearly complete when we walked through it. Same floor plan. Here are some things I noticed that I wanted to run past you guys, to see what you think or could comment on.
House is in Buffalo, NY. Lots of rain and snow, but not too cold due to lake effect.
Exterior insulation – he is getting foam sprayed. Don’t know if open or closed cell. What about a layer of ridgid foam as a thermal break? Inside studs or outside?
Sill plate – is ACQ certified fasteners enough, or should it be SS… how much would SS add on a 1500sq floorplan? On one exposed area, it looked like they were using regular smooth shank clipped head nails… is there an easy way to tell ACQ certified fasteners from regular fasteners?
Electrical – all the outlets were run with 14ga. wire. Would you want 12ga.?
Drywall – everything was 1/2″. Would you want 5/8″?
Bathroom/Greatroom to bedroom walls – Most are 2×4 with 1/2 drywall, with fiberglass batts inside. What would you like to see in bath-bedroom walls and bedroom-great room walls? I was thinking at least 2×6 sill with staggered studs and batts between. Since foam is being sprayed, would you incorporate this into the sound insulation on interior walls – and how?
Flat panel TV over fireplace – we both have concerns it might be too high, any thoughts or suggestions? Any mounts that might help? Also, I was thinking he should run a conduit from that area to an accessable area of the basement for future AV, like ethernet, etc. Any idea on size there?
Exterior – He is thinking about stone on the 1st floor and Dryvit on the 2nd. Any thing to keep an eye on there? What underlayment is used there?
Roof – he is going for the 50year architectural shingles. I saw 2×8 rafters 16″o.c., but the plans call for 1/2″ OSB. Would you want 5/8″?
Basement – he is ordering 9′ ceilings for the basement. He is also getting part of the basement finished with drywall. What details should he ask about to help lessen sound transfer from the basement through the mechanicals?
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it’s because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Replies
You got a lot of questions! I'll pick on a few of them.
>>Sill plate - is ACQ certified fasteners enough, or should it be SS... how much would SS add on a 1500sq floorplan? << being overly paranoid about ACQ corrosion issues - I use SS exclusively in ACQ. That being said HD galvanized is approved. SS for ACQ sill plate use will add ~$ 140. to the cost of the house figuring the GC will buy a case of 5000 nails - he will only use about 1/8 - 1/4 case, but you will get charged for all.
>>... is there an easy way to tell ACQ certified fasteners from regular fasteners?<< not really - a SS fastener can generally be identified with a magnet (no stick to SS), sometimes ID'd with a waffle printed head but not always. HD galvanized generally looks "flakey". Problem is that bright commons and SS with no head imprint look exactly the same until the brights start rusting.
>>Electrical - all the outlets were run with 14ga. wire. Would you want 12ga.?<< I would like 12 , but 14 is sufficient in most bedrooms, etc.. There are some locations where 12 / 20A is required - kitchen, laundry, etc. FYI, if no where else I would spec 20A for the garage, basement and outside outlets - these are the locations most likely to be used with power tools.
>>Drywall - everything was 1/2". Would you want 5/8"?<< Assuming 16" centers - I like 1/2" on walls, 5/8" on ceilings (can go up to 24" centers). Glue and screws for ceilings, screws only for walls. I avoid 5/8" on walls unless there is some good reason - door jambs become special order, etc. due to the extra thickness of the wall.
I'll let someone else pick it up from here.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Edited 11/26/2007 3:25 pm ET by JTC1
>What about a layer of ridgid foam as a thermal break? Inside studs or outside?<
>Drywall - everything was 1/2". Would you want 5/8"?<
Foam board on the outisde to break the thermal gap and 5/8" SR are good ideas to me (5/8 good for slowing sound) but they come with a hidden cost in that the thicker wall requires jamb extensions or specific orders when the door & window package is set.
Dryvit??? No way
Whyyyyyy....?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
When general liability policies exclude EIFS there are problems. I've fixed about 15 houses with it, each at 100,000 and up. Google Eifs problems and that should enlighten you. There is an argument that you can successfully flash a wall with this stuff but why take the chance?
Edited 11/26/2007 7:22 pm ET by shellbuilder
That's an old problem that has been thru the courts.
It's not the product, it's the installation of the product that was the problem.
EIPS is big and common in many parts of the country. My house has it in places.
I had to have a repair done once because the stuff was applied after the gutters were placed. The previous owner planted aspen trees (poplar) that grew up and dropped their leaves into the eavestroughs. He never cleaned them. After a while, the corrosive action of the rotting leaves (plus the backup of water) ate a hole in the end cap of the run, and then drained behind the EIPS siding.
The repair was $15K, but the product did what it was supposed to.
Sounds like your part of the next generation of rotten houses who think it was just the guys in the 80s and 90s who had problems.
I always run 12ga./20A to all of the outlets; CB nuisance tripping isn't worth the few dollars you save on the copper cost. I'm over 60 and there is no way I could watch a television over a fireplace for longer than ten minutes without my neck going out; I have mine on the lowest stand I could find. You should be able to pull most anything you would need through a spare 3/4" rigid PVC conduit; if it is corrugated flex, I'd go for 1". You should have 5/8" sheetrock on the ceilings if the joists are at 24".
I would use 5/8's sheetrock on the ceilings. Just my preference.
12-2 for outlets another preference
I haven't seen a clipped head-hot dipped nail before, that doesn't mean they don't make one though.
Is the fireplace a wood burner? If so it might need to be that high for code issues. Combustables have to be so far away from the heat source, depending on the firebox's size. Best to check with your BIL's building inspector to see what they require.
Matt- Woods favorite carpenter.
The Paslode clipped head galv framers are ACQ rated
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I have seen the Paslodes that are ACq rated and they were the full round heads. Or their version the offset round head.
Not the D-headed or clipped head version.
Matt- Woods favorite carpenter.
Clipped head ACQ rated nails are readily available here (DE) - even at the big orange box - GripRite brand - checked yesterday.
Wasn't sure - my framing gun is full round head and I buy nails from a guy who specializes in nails and air tools -- buys'em by the container full - cheaper and much better selection than anybody in town.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I have seen the full roundy's, haven't seen the clipped heads on a ACq nail yet.
I haven't been in the market for a clipped head nail for maybe 3 years now. I switched over to full round heads and never looked back.
Doesn't suprise me that they make one. I am really suprised that clipped head nails are still allowed by code, glorified finish nails is all they are.
Matt- Woods favorite carpenter.
>>.....suprised that clipped head nails are still allowed by code,....<<
I am told that in some applications they are not permitted.
There were some rumblings going on when I bought my first nailer which steered me toward a full round head nailer - one nail gun that was going to be legal no matter what happened.
A little further research showed that in my area I had a much greater selection of nails in full round head - SS, annular ring, spiral, etc.
It ended up that about the only advantage I could see for clipped head nails was that the guns held more nails in a single load - decided that if I really wanted nail capacity, I should be looking at coil nailers.
Plus, I make mistakes and it seems easier to pull a full round head nail!
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I think you are right. I was thinking of those as clipped
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Paul.
Have him build it with ICF's, maybe a 2% premium but massive energy efficency gains. My house I saved over $2000 a heating season using the same furnace.. And the house is 3000 sq.ft. bigger. (not to mention the increased cost of energy)..
Plus better fire protection and wind protection..
A lot of your concerns are nola contendre, IMO.
Others are important.
" ...Buffalo, NY. Lots of rain and snow, but not too cold due to lake effect."
He hasn't lived there long has he?
I grew up near there. He should expecct several periods of temps well below zero.
" is there an easy way to tell ACQ certified fasteners from regular fasteners"
They rust.
Regular certified for ACQ is fine for mudsill. Out on a porch with regular water running, I like SS
"all the outlets were run with 14ga. wire. Would you want 12ga.?"
It is my understanding that the electrical code calls this one out. 20A circuits get 12ga and 15A circuits get 14ga. burglars also get 12ga in some states. Not sure about NY
"Drywall - everything was 1/2". Would you want 5/8"?"
In the garage. But not really needed most places.
Ceilings framed 24"oc need 5/8
The extra mass can help with the sound problems you mention in other Qs
But typical const and jamb sizes are set up for 1/2" SR. go to the 5/8" and you are not only paying an extra few cents a foot for the rock, but also upgrade charges for special jamb sizing or for extension jambs
"Roof - ...50year architectural shingles. ... 1/2" OSB. Would you want 5/8"?"
Absolu-posi-definitely!
Dryvit - detailing is extremely important, as is flashing.
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Adding rigid foam would be considered an extra. It will have an effect on all kinds of other things, electrical boxes, door and window jambs, attaching trim work. There is more involved than just the foam board. The same for using 5/8" sheetrock or thicker walls. Exterior door and window jambs are made to fit specific wall thicknesses, 2x4 or 2x6 with 1/2" drywall and 7/16" sheathing. Interior jambs fit 4 1/2". You can vary up to 1/8", after that it will need extra work.
The sill ain't going nowhere.
Electrical is by code. Bigger isn't always better in this work.
We don't use dryvit.
I would not use 1/2" OSB for roof sheathing. 1/2" CDX is the minimum, 5/8" CDX is preferred. With 50 yr. shingles, you won't be stripping it very often.
Plan ahead when excavating so the mechanicals can be isolated in one area of the basement. Most modern systems are quiet to begin with. Frame them up in a utility room.
Sound abatement takes a lot more than some fiberglass in the stud cavities. You have to completely isolate the room from the structure, floor, ceiling, door and walls.
Upgrading many of the things you have mentioned is going to cost money. I'd spend extra money on good windows, drapes or quilts for them and add insulation in the attic. Other than the roof sheathing, it sounds like you are getting what would be considered normal in the industry.
"With 50 yr. shingles, you won't be stripping it very often."What I was thinking is why use a 25 year sheathing under a fifty year shingle, LOL.I think FG batts in interior walls for sound control is a joke designed only to sell fibreglas
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