I’m doing a kitchen for a client who specified all their in-cabinet and under-cabinet lighting from IKEA. With low-voltage stuff in the past, I’ve always located the transformer in an appropriate place and wireed it all together. The IKEA lights come with their own transformers (i.e., two pucks to a transformer). The stuff looks good and I’m sure it will work fine, but what’s the best way to do a clean installation? I’m thinking of maybe building a box in the attic with a terminal strip in it to accept the transformers and allow future access.
Anybody have a good solution? Thanks!
Replies
Attic, basement, or inside a base cabinet (up high so it doesn't interfere with anything).
In the back of a base cabinet is another possibility. In some cases you could put the xformers behind a drawer.
Some of those kind of cabinets are on legs and have snap on toe kickplates. If so and the transformer is not too big it can go there.
BTW, If these are going have a regular wall switch I would put a note in the box telling where the transform is hitten if it is not in semiplain sight in the cabinet.
Of if there is a place mark the lense cover with a marker.
My experience with all low voltage transformers is that they are all junk. Go to a lighting store, shortwave radio store, alarm supplier, and buy a real transformer sized for the combined amps of the total of all lights plus about 10%. One wire; One transformer; One Install; No callbacks.Regards,
Boris"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
I think I would agree with your suggestion even if the transformers weren't junk. It's the ratio of one transformer for every two lights that bothers me. That's like putting in a separate service entrance for every room in the house.
Those cheap $5 transformers can't take power fluctuations, and trying to track down which one failed when they do fail is impossible, and when you have to replace them, the replacements cost as much as the whole light set, a complete rip off.Regards,
Boris"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
I've been intrigued by a 12 V whole house system. What you say leads to that. How does one plan an efficent wiring diagram with all of the possible variables within the 12 V demand world?
I mean, one wants to have a system where line dropage is minimal, right? The archy in his plans could lay out such a system in concert with his lighting consultants, but is that process efficient or worth the extra cost/time?
How would you lay one out assuming landscape, all these computer bricks, liteing in the kitchen/bath, etc?
I don't have a clue as to 12v voltage drop. I assume the physics of it is that a higher guage wire reduce voltage drop, just like with AC. If I was doing it myself, I'd run some test with 12, 14 and 16 ga wire. Gotta believe that 12 ga would be fine.I'd call an electrician, and I ain't one, thats for sure.Regards,
Boris"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Note that the difficulty with low-voltage is getting good connections that are tolerant of the high currents involved. The connections are generally the weak links in the exterior lighting systems.
Re wire size, you need essentially the same wire size for a given current, regardless of voltage. Add up the current draw for all the lamps to compute total current. If you don't have the current ratings for the fixtures, divide watts by 12.The wiring used for exterior lights is generally #12 or #10 (stranded), I believe.
Now theres a new one...someone wanting to change thier house over to 12V!I've lived off the grid in a solar electric house for 17 years and blessed the heavens when more effcient inverters made 110v a reality.My house is still a mix of 12v-110v because i like redundancy in systems and if something went wrong with my inverter i wouldnt be left in the dark. I dont have to hide any transformers tho'.And rewiring is a lot bigger issue than u think especially when u end up having to run range wire to a water pump because of distance and draw.
My experience is exactly the same as yours. I started using exterior lighting transformers as they seem to be a better quality unit with much more capacity. I had one job that we replaced the "hockey puck light junk transformer" 3 times before I got smart, never got called back again. DanT
The problem I see is each pair of lights has one transformer. 10 light and 5 transformers to hide somewhere. And lots of extra wires to run. Use the lights by allmeans but get a transformer to drive all at once. Or HD has a five pack with transformer for $30 (white,black etc). There are others available too. by the way always buy the 5 pack its cheaper than buying spare bulbs!
The low voltage exterior lighting units are 12V, and the transformers are available separately. You can get them in fairly large sizes. (Only problem is that they go off when you turn on the kitchen lights ;))
I agree with the previous poster who suggested getting better transformer/s. Sometimes 12v swimming pool transformers are available at reasonable cost. They are generally much more solidly built, usually meaning less noise and greater tolerance to surges and longer expected life, and have greater capacity, meaning fewer are needed.
For under cabinet lighting I try to locate the transformer in the upper most portion of the upper cabinets. In a back corner they, typically a 6"x5"x4" upright box, take up little room. Often easiest to use the keyhole slots often found on these units and neatly coil some extra cable. Leaving the mounting screws loose allows the box to be slipped off its mounts. The junction enclosure is typically on the bottom so dismounting it makes things a lot easier. Put a little cardboard on the counter and standing on it gives easy access. Using a little rubber as shims under the transformer can further deaden vibrations and noise.
Mount near the pucks or lights to keep the wiring runs as short and easy to install as possible. Installing the transformer in the lower cabinets usually means having to thread the cables through the plane of the wall and back out under the counter top.
Avoid attics because they are typically too hot. Be sure to switch the line voltage side of the transformer not the 12v side. 16 gauge - 2 conductor SPT, zip-type lamp cord works well for the wiring. Select white, black or brown to blend. I use crimp on splices for connections. White or black heat-shrink tubing makes the splices blend a little better. Low temperature hot-melt glue and a staple gun holds the wiring in good order. The inside corner between the face frame and the box is a good location. Well protected and out of sight.
A talented carpenter I worked with used to arrange a false face under the upper cabinets to house the wiring. Eliminating aesthetic concerns.