I’m fearing the worst…
On the advice of the Lowes “pro” (Yes they are in Canada now, one just opened in Newmarket near us), I put the cement board right to the floor on all the walls around the tub.
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From what I’ve read on other threads here, the cement board should be lapping the edge of the tub. The Lowes guy said that the cement board should go to the floor, and that the tiles just need to overhang.
Since I’ve already plumbed the drains in, I hope that I have misunderstood, and that I can apply the kerdi membrane so that it extends over the lip, and tile everything in and be fine. if not, well, I’d rather rip out and re-plumb now than rip out, re-tile and re-plumb later.
Another challenge. If the cement board laps the edge of the tub, the walls will be 1″ too wide to accommodate the tub.Since I have run all the plumbing in the end wall, its a little late to move it over. I hate to shim the entire room, are there other options that come to mind?
Another option might be to add a second layer of Durock, mitigating the need to rip out (easy on labour, hard on supplies), but even if I do that, the VB won’t lap the edge of the tub, only the Durock will. I think the 1/2″ bump in the walls at the edge of the tub could be hidden with some accent tiles.
What is my best option here? What would you do (apart from get it right the first time)?
Replies
First.... the fact that you are using Kerdi means that your options are better. The cement boad (or drywall, it's Kerdi after all!) should lap the tub lip but not touch the top surface with a steel tub install. The acrylic tubs are different. Can you unscrew the sheets of cement board? Half inch ply strips (on either side) make a nice cheap shim to make room smaller. Then you can just reinstall cement board. Overlap isn't essential, but can your tiles span the last inch or so unsupported? you can glue the Kerdi to the lip of the tub for waterproofiness. Good luck! Mike
Are you just tiling just the tub area or is it going to extend to wainscot on the other walls? If it is just the tub area and you have not decided on tile or are open to changes you can trim it with a mud set bull nose 1/2 radius on the edge instead of a flat bull nose. The easiest thing then would be to just add another layer of board over the existing 50 - 60 bucks. If no stud is located on the outside edge you can used a poly urathane adhesive and glue the edges to the first layer cut 5' braces i guess 4'11" and wedge wall to wall till the adhesive sets. Or take the existing board down and shim it.
The board should over lap the tub I would have a discussion with the store manager either way. May at the least get 10% off your next purchase out of it, if not new board.
Wallyo
Edited 3/12/2008 11:52 am ET by wallyo
I think what I'll do is:1. Put a second layer of cement board on top
2. Tile all the way to the ceiling so the bullnose is only on the front edge of the tub. (I was planning on only tiling to the top edge of the window)
3. Use a trim piece or a bullnose as suggested If I stagger the joints in the cement board, do you think a membrane is still neccessary?Tonight I will be doing the electrical and running plumbing supply lines, So I'll check back here tomorrow to see if anyone else has chimed in.
Edited 3/12/2008 4:50 pm ET by Dagwood
I am not for against a membrane just have never used one and never had a problem. You forgot 4 goes to Lowes and yell at the manager.With the right trim it will look fine only problem is the chance of hitting one of the previous screws if you spaced them pretty evenly apart just try to get the next set to the middle of the firstWallyo