We have a 20 wide by 10 deep addition on the back of our house. I’d like to add a roof to cover the deck that has (I believe) are called hips.
How does one determine where the hips go? Also, is that a Tauton book that would show the framing for such?
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Replies
Try this image ...
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.roof-repair-houston.com/Resources/hip_features_large.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.roof-repair-houston.com/fix-my-roof-leak-leaking-ceiling.html&h=426&w=640&sz=109&tbnid=Xq5OeaZMKWGe-M:&tbnh=91&tbnw=137&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dhip%2Broof&hl=en&usg=__-hMGnYHwxS2AhWQ80R600ZMEki0=&sa=X&ei=Pj9jTNuLOYOmvgPO0Z2eCg&sqi=2&ved=0CB4Q9QEwAQ
shows a hip roof and some framing.
A hip roof is simply a gable roof with the gable end laying over at the same angle ast the other part of the roof (usually the same angle). The 'hip' line simply is drawn from the corner where the gable lower end (far corner of the eave) would be and then up to meet the ridge. The 'end' of the roof forms an eave identical to the other eaves. The framing is more complex than straight roofing framing, so you'll have to get a book or go on-line and study some of the details.
Others will fill in gaps here that I left.
Thanks.
We have a very retangular house with an 20 wide by 8 long addition "old porch" that got rebuit and has a "sub" 7/12 rook
Snother 'a' frame just doesn't seem right .
So just under the window i wanted to start the ledger and due to the facia put a couple "hips" / shoudlers. don't know the correct term.
Bbut i don't know how fo calculate it.
Now I'm a bit confused. You want another roof over the back where the door is? I would NOT do a hip roof there. Do another gable ... layered gables look fine if you do them right. Mixing gables and hips can be problematic, but it depends.
If you did another roof w/ the roof on the left in the same (or almost) plane as your existing roof on the left in the pic and then broke the peak of the roof off befor you get to your existing addition peak, it would look fine.
Or you do a porch type hip roof over the back of the house. It all depends on what you are wanting to do and the result you want to get. What will the roof cover? A porch?
I agree another gable is the way to go to keep with the style. Adding a hip roof would be an example of what we fondly call remuddling.
It may be worthwhile to build yourself a scale model (using, eg, balsa model suplies or just cardboard). Doesn't need to be the entire house, but you should model the entire end. This will give you the chance to observe how it looks and also understand clearance issues.
For the scale model you can skip framing details, but then observing the model afterwards will give you some hints as to the framing.
DanH has a GREAT suggestion ... do the scale model of that end of the house. Say 1/4" scale would be a reasonable size. We call it a mass model in the architecture industry. Something simple. No materials or color or necessarily any windows ... but you can sketch them on the cardboard. Get a clean sheet of material and even color.
Build the base/original house. Then 'tack on' a couple of options that you are thinking about. You can take one off and do the other. Allow yourself to explore many options if you need to. It's not really a lot of work and I'll bet you learn a lot from it (and not just about elmers glue and cardboard).
If you need, you can even take it a step further w/ some simple framing using either cardboard or balsa. Personally I think this could be your best option right now so you don't end up with something that your friends will go ... ah oohh ... aah yeah ... that's nice.
You want to put the effort into it ... try to make it really add a lot to the house rather than look like you tacked it on ... like the other guy said ... remodel, don't remuddle.
I lied ... no framing on that image ... try this one. Gives you a few simple basics of the framing components.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.containerhomeconsultants.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/HipRoof.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.containerhomeconsultants.com/2010/02/24/1-shipping-container-into-4-homes/&h=400&w=400&sz=6&tbnid=U2WDr2QucKDFRM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dhip%2Broof&hl=en&usg=__6H99ejhb3O6whUgNM-yqINqRK8A=&sa=X&ei=dXtjTOqQAoH88AaV9uWICg&ved=0CCAQ9QEwAg
The valley and hip rafters are key. Intersecting roofs I've done by building and sheathing the one and then laying the valley rafter on the sheathing of the first roof. It really makes doing it a bit easier. I think I've used e.g. a 12" wide 3/4" plywood to do it. You layout your line and attach it through the roof into the framing. That way you don't have the complexities of all the framing at the valley. You start framing the second roof I think at the intersection of the two w/ a standard rafter and ridge board that extends to the first roof ... either in line w/ the other ridge (if the width of the two parts of the house are equal) or above or below it if it's not.
Jack rafters end up cut with the plumb cut to attach to the ridgeboard and a compound cut that dies on the valley 'rafter'. The layout has to be right or you won't get your roof plane right, so you need to study something that tells you the details. Study them well and apply them. You get it wrong and you got a weird roof.
no hip roof there
I am going to agree with these guys, but for a different reason than style.
I can and have done hip porch roofs of a gable end like that. It is really fairly common.
But you do not have room to fit it under that window with enough pitch to drain water well, IMO the only way to roof over that porch would be with extending the gable
I wouldn't extend the entire existing roof out, though. Way too much mass. The new roof peak should fall short of the adjoining peak by e.g. a couple feet. I think creating a triple gable look would be much more appealing. It does mean having the porch fall short of the corner or not otherwise be entirely covered by the roof. Small price to pay to avoid looking like a remuddle.
That window would not let him drop it a couple of feet, maybe 8" or so is all.
If his porch were 18" in from corners of the house, it would make for better roof options. Maybe go 17' wide and project out 10-12'
10x18 would give him an additional 20 SF over the 8x20 and it would be more practical space to feel comfortable in.
Dang! Missed that! Right you are. Even better reason to do a model and play w/ options. That really puts a crimp it the plans.
I wonder if what the OP has in mind is more of a flat/shallow-pitch shed with a sort of mansard treatment around the edges. That would work in terms of not blocking the window (while still allowing you to exit the house without ducking), and I can vaguely see that it might be made to look nice.
Another option (though probably too complex for the OP to pull off) would be an open framework gable with the above flat roof incorporated within it.