The front page of the FHB site has a picture of a roof being framed showing several things I’d be interested in your comments on:
1. Is the sizing of the valley rafter adequate?
2. I like the idea of finishing the gable end before lifting the wall, but how do you adequately flash the window opening once the siding is already on?
Replies
The valley rafter appears perfectly adequate. Looks like an engineered member. As far as the window flashing, good question - I don't know how thats handled. I know there are guys here who use that method, and can tell us how they do it.
That photo is from an article that Rick Arnold did, a few years ago if I recall correctly. I'm sur, considering the source, that an engineer had given it the once over.
Seems to me the siding was put on leaving enough room to set a window and nail flange, filling space to siding with 5/4 stock after.I guess the vycor is put on and lapped onto flange after widow is set. Assume that z flashing/ drip cap on top is set when siding, and 5/4 stock tucked under after window is set. Not necessarily how I would do it, but tricky nonetheless. Or, my assumption could be wrong and he had a different way of doing it.
Bing
I've set many, many hundreds of windows while the wall was framed on the deck. The process is the same whether the wall is vertical or horizontal.
In later years, when we worked off the Skytrak and table framed all the walls, we didn't bother setting the windows till the end of the jobs.
In our area, we set 99% wood windows with wood brickmolds. The only flashing that we installed was the head flashing which we put on after we set the window. In later years, we had to install a bunch of vycor stuff which never really made any sense with wood brickmolded windows but we did it anyways.
It's probably a regional thing, but the layers of paper, peel and stick, sill pans and caulking required by our warranty providers would make installing a window after the siding pretty much impossible.
I was interested in the experiences of people who had done it partly because I am trying to imagine the sequence: For the window to fit correctly I would think you need to have it in place to run the siding up to, then remove it to stand the wall. I generally don't have windows on site until all my framing is complete so they don't get broken or take a walk.
The sequence of wallbuilding doesn't change whether the wall is flat, horizontal, vertical or upside down.
First, the frame. Next, the sheathing. Then wrap. Then windows wraps (I guess the first wrap doesn't work after all). Then the window. Then the metal flashing at the head. Then the siding. Then the frieze. Then the soffit. Then the subfascia. Then the fascia. Temp brace the soffit system.
Then, stand the wall up where it belongs.
I've never painted or caulked a wall, window, or siding while it is laying down but that is possible too.
the photo shows a wall with finished siding before the window installView ImageView Image bakersfieldremodel.com
so where is the wrap and flashing?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
well, they dug that out of the archives to illustrate their tricky roof framing photo contest, and didn't think anyone would notice!
However, zooming in, there does seem to be some flashing paper around the opening. But how do you get the window and trim in there now?View Image bakersfieldremodel.com
Maybe that picture was taken before they invented window wrap LOL!
Jim,
First, the frame. Next, the sheathing. Then wrap. Then windows wraps (I guess the first wrap doesn't work after all). Then the window. Then the metal flashing at the head. Then the siding. Then the frieze. Then the soffit. Then the subfascia. Then the fascia.
Jim,
The never put the window in. The siding was done first with the widow left out. That's hat he's talking about. You're talking about something different.Joe Carola