Morning all,
I need to cut a door knob hole (the kind for the little brass pull inserts) on a hollow core oak veneered door. My question is how do I cut this hole without having tearout of the surrounding veneer? Do I tape the hole first, then cut using a hole saw, or should I cut the veneer with an exacto knife first, then use the hole saw?
Only have 4 closet doors to do, so don’t want to invest in door kit at this point. Also how do you keep the cheap brass inserts in the door? They are predrilled for 2 brass nails, but even if I install at the edge of stile, there isn’t anything for second nail to hit?
Does anyone have any good technique or tips for this?
Thanks.
Replies
There is probably a thickened stile in that area, cuz when the door was mfgd they didn't know if it would be used as a regular door or whatever, and a regular door needs some blocking to hold the lockset.
Carefully score the veneer with a sharp blade, then drill from both sides. Don't try to drill all the way through from one side. Once the pilot bit breaks through, pull the bit out and strart from the back.
A good glob of liquid nails will hold the plates in place.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Thanks Ed,
I just have to cut the hole on one side, as it is for a set of sliders for closet. I hope your right on the blocking. Will keep my fingers crossed, and cut the veneer first.
After you start the pilot bit, then put the drill in reverse and cut into it 1/8" or so. It sound like it wouldn't cut but a hole saw in reverse will cut but since the teeth are reversed, it cuts slowly which gives you control over the cut. Once you're in 1/8", then drill in forward until you see the pilot on the other side, then do the same on the other side.
This is also the best method to drill into melamine, laminates and fiberglass shower surrounds. The plumbers in the forum will second this.
Thanks DDay,
Sounds like you have used this method. Will running the saw backwards stop splintering, and tearout? I'm assuming a slow speed for this.
Running the bit backwards will help reduce splintering. See if you can score with a knife first. And be sure the pilot bit isn't extended too far, or it will poke out the other side.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
I'll second a Forstner bit.
they're designed to cut at the rim first, so you won't get splintering.
Ed, Mike, Shep,
Thanks for the information. I will try both methods, hole saw backwards, and Forstner bit. I have both, and since I have 4 doors, I'll try both and see which works best. Thanks again for the information.
dap
The brass finger pulls usually tap in with a light blow with the bottom of the hammer handle. The correct multispur or forstner bit is a good way to bore the door. Don't use the escuteon pins if the pull fits tight. I have also bored the holes with a spade bit, the type that has small spurs, Milwaukee among others makes them. The trouble with a spade bit is you need wood behind the plywood face, otherwise the hole will get sloppy as the point of the bit has no purchase.
mike