I just bought a new Delta TS, (TS300). I am already planning on making my own zero clearance insert, but I’m wondering if making my own Dado insert is going too far to save a few bucks. Anybody ever done this?
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I'm not familiar with the saw you've mentioned but I make my own inserts for all my saws. When you consider all the different inserts you may need, it will be rather expensive to buy all of them. You get better dust collection with zero or close to zero clearance around blades. There may be several dado configurations you use as well as different depths for materials and inserts for molding heads, etc. None of them last forever due to the abrasive action of the saw dust. When it comes time to replace one, I make up a half dozen blanks to have on hand. It is safer not to have a large hole around the blade, where waste stips get sucked in, and it's not fun to eat more dust than is necessary.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
If you have a bandsaw, you could knock out a lifetime supply (~50) out of a sheet baltic birch plywood in about a hour, or less if you're good, for about $30 not including your time.
WSJ
I make 'em for a unisaw and DeWalt table saw. Stick the original insert to birch ply or mdf scrap, use it as a pattern for a router. Countersink four screws in for levelers, stick a nail in the outfeed end for a keeper.Start the saw with the blade lowered, hold the insert down with a wood scrap, and slowly raise the blade. Easy, quick, and disposable<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!
I use plexiglass.
Easy to cut and the right size for my Powermatic 5hp TS....not to mention cheap.
Be inserted : )~
a...
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I only use dado inserts that I make, even though I have the steel one that came with the saw.If you have done much dadoing before you may have encountered areas of the dado that were not the same depth thru the entire length.This happens when the board is not perfectly straight in plane, most boards are not.
Easy to overcome, a slight high spot in the wood insert makes sure that the dado blades cut the same depth all thru the length. The high spot is only 1/16" and slopes down to 0" front and back.The highest spot should be at the center of the blade at dado height.
If you use a large power feeder, then this is not necessary.The feeder will push the board flat to the table as it advances.Most of us do not own 1hp power feeders.
mike
These are easy enough to make with a router pattern bit, assuming your saw will take a 1/2" thick insert. If not, then you have to rabbet off enough stock to make the insert fit flush with the top of the TS.
So it all depends on how much time you want to spend -- as opposed to spending about $20 for a manufacturered insert.