I’ve always hung drywall vertically in the past. I plan to hang sheets horizontal with studs 24″ OC. The non-bearing wall is only 7′ high and the fire blocking is installed to create a 48″ opening, alternating top and bottom, so a FG batt fits in without cutting. That leaves the horizontal edge unsupported in alternating bays. Is there concern for joint strength with a 24″ unsupported edge?
Adam
Replies
None that I know of. On 24 centers I've always hung 5/8ths.
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You can always grab some scraps of ply, OSB, 1x4 and use it as a backer between studs. 4-6 screws and the joint is tight. But my time is free, I'm doing my own house.
Plywood backer would certainly eliminate any movement, but you could also leave a small gap between the boards (1/8" is sufficient) and pre-fill with Durabond before taping
What Calvin said, 5/8" on 24" centers. Order 5/8" fire code drywall for both ceilings and walls. Best to order the longest boards possible, to avoid as many butt joints as you can. Twelve foot boards are standard length for typical size rooms.
I am going to assume you are not hanging 200 lf of 7 foot wall. With 24" OC studs, you need to hang 5/8"board like others have said. A 12' sheet of 5/8" board is very difficult for one worker to hande.
Why not do yourself a favor and add a couple more studs and use 1/2" board?
BTW, the only time I have ever hung drywall vertically is when it was being used for shear wall (yes, shear wall!), and then only once.
There's 9 feet of wall on 24", then a 90 degree turn for 2 feet than another 21 ft parallel to the first wall. The 21' section is a mess of studs, some 2x2's mixed in and all kinds of random blocking with no consistent center that I can figure out. I'll cut out and move studs there anyway. Being non bearing, I thought I'd continue at 24" and maximize insulation and minimize the work of rebuilding the wall. Since I'll be moving studs anyway, I'll be putting in the blocking too. By pure chance the space between the top and bottom plate is 81 1/2". That means with a 1 1/2" fire block I have can have a 48" and 32" cavity per bay. Only two cuts of FG to fill three bays. I can put the studs at 16" OC but if I can get away with 24", why make more work? Every second bay would have support within a couple inches of the seam. Right now I'm leaning towards 1/2", 24' OC and a plywood backer at the unsupported seams.A lot of the house has 3/8 drywall that seems to of held up fine. I don't see the need to go to 5/8.Thanks for all the feedback.Adam
We've run half inch horiz on 24" ctrs for years. 5/8 messes with your window and door jambs. On ceilings we run 5/8 when 24" oc but not walls.
m
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"You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."
Ditto that here.
Life is Good
5/8 messes with your window and door jambs.
That's true on most new work but, in this case the house is an old hodge podge of framing so jamb extensions are a given.
I've done dozens of houses with 1/2" on 24" framing. No problem.
Wow.
And I thought discussions in the Tavern never changed.
1.20.13
How thick should the sheathing on my roof be again?
Well, if I had something to compare it too..............2 1/2" inches, plus four layers of finish roofing.
The second layer being cedar shakes.
We are about due for a How do I Attach Hardiplank Through 1" Foam to my Sheathing discussion.
So you're saying the lack of consensus is nothing new in this case?
No blocking needed.
1/2" is fine.