Got a client who is wondering what might be done about keeping their detached garage a tad cooler on those hot summer days. Asked me what I thought about adding gable vents at the front and rear.
I’m thinking that the time and effort isn’t going to make the results cost effective.
I’m thinking a thermostatically controled vent fan, up high in the rear gable end will yield the best result.
As mentioned, it’s detached. Small….single car, wood framed, no interior sheathing, no ceiling, sided with stucco, unvented (new) asphalt roof, two double hung windows with an overhead door.
Unlike most in these parts, they actually keep thier car in there. That, and some minor storage. Not lookin’ to chill the space…..just take the edge off during those “dog days”.
Recomendations?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Replies
Insulation will help even out temperature swings both in the summer and winter.
I never was a fan of power venting. (Pun intended) I'd rather see soffit and ridge vents, and let gravity do the rest.
I would look at a radiant barrier. Being open it should be easy to install on the bottom of the roof sheahting or rafters.
Then maybe some natural ventalation.
But instead of soffit to ridge, "floor" to ridge. Or maybe a cupulo.
Probably enough leakage around the door for the air source.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I was thinking a radiant barrier to the underside of the rafters would be a bad idea.....unless soffet and ridge venting were added?
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
"I was thinking a radiant barrier to the underside of the rafters would be a bad idea.....unless soffet and ridge venting were added?"Why?
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
The trouble with a garage in the summer is that it's already hot as blazes in there, and then you go and park 500 pounds of hot cast iron inside it which make matters even worse.
Insulation will help, but I think you'll need intake louvers down low on one side of the walls somewhere, along with a thermostatically controlled exhaust fan high up on the opposite wall or in the roof, to pull out the heat from the car engine. The louvers will need screens to keep bugs and critters out, probably along with some sort of insulated cover that can be snapped in during the winter.
If I can affix the windows in an open position, instead of adding intake louvres?
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
Appreciating the input gang.
I'm hoping the windows can be used in the ventilation scheme. Adding additional air intake is going to raise the cost of the project. And I'm not convinced a discernable difference in temperature is likely.
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
With an exhaust fan running up above it would be nice if you could draw the air in a little lower than the windows, to exchange more of the volume of air in the garage, but windows should suffice. And, even with the windows closed, a standard garage door (unless you take extra steps to seal it) will have enough leakage to assure SOME ventillation regardless.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
"If I can affix the windows in an open position, instead of adding intake louvres?"
That would accomplish the same thing, my only concern would be security...in my neighborhood I wouldn't want to leave a window open in the garage, chances are my tools would grow legs and walk away.
Generally attic fans don't do much good, but here's one case where they work pretty well. A thermostatic attic fan, either through the roof or out the gable end. Wire it with 3-wire (plus ground) cable so that a manual switch can be used to turn on the fan when the place is occupied. This often made the difference between bearable and unbearable in our garage.
The other option is to add passive venting -- probably ridge venting is best. I had our garage converted from the fan to ridge venting with the last re-shingle, because I was tired of crawling up into the rafters to service the fan. (The fan motors require replacement every 7-10 years, though you can stretch it out by squirting some oil into the bearings..)
In both cases, rather than eave vents to round off the airflow, try to source things lower. In our case the garage door is leaky enough to do the trick, but some sort of through-the wall vents might be appropriate in your case.
Hmm, depends, I'm thinking, a bit on if the structure is exposed. Insulating will help that, as much as it can even with insulated gargage doors.
But, like as not, what will be needed is sensible air movement. Which means fans. Fans that are out of the way, yet can get air movement where it is needed.
And, probably, u-bolting a floor fan with remote to the ceiling is going to be a bit too "out in the country" to be a good answer (looks like, well, we know what it looks like; but it works).
No, too "out in the country" is chaining your old Chevy engine up there so the fan can be used to move air around.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
open the door