In my new position (standing a lot) we have occasional issues with guests banging into furniture and damaging it. Often knocking cabinet doors off etc. The issue is since it is a hotel we have to get the room back together as quickly as possible to rent again.
Often the repairs need some splintered wood reglued and then finish touch up and put back together. To speed the process up I was thinking about an article I had read some time back in some magazine about new technology hot glue that is strong and obviously quick to set. Anyone have any knowledge or experience with this type of product? DanT
Replies
Don't know about what your asking but have you tried any of the super glues with the accelerators. I really like this stuff called Hot Stuff . I bought mine at Woodcrafters Company.
http://www.theglueguy.com/products.htm
Thats interesting stuff. Thanks!
DanT
http://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-1341-Titebond-HiPURformer/dp/B000063CJK/ref=pd_cp_hi_1?pf_rd_p=413863601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000063CJO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1WE1V4QYFQ6MEAGVMVP1
Edited 2/26/2009 7:20 pm ET by Dam_inspector
Maybe the same stuff as already mentioned, but I would look at 2P10.
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
I second the suggestion for 2p10. Mainly because my local lumberyard carries it and when I contacted Fastcap for more info on why the accelerator was turning some granites green, they sent me a nice little kit for free with 4 viscosities of glue, debonder, accelerator, spare tips and it all fit into a handy blow molded carrying case. It is handy to have different viscosities as some porous materials suck up to much of the thin and in other applications you need it to penetrate into cracks.The only issue with the cyanoacrylates is they will harden up in the bottle before you have had a chance to use it all so I tend to avoid anything larger than a 2 oz bottle. It is also nice if replacement caps/tips are available for the bottle as they get so loaded up with cured glue that they become difficult to seal.DanT, if you haven't tried CA glue you should at least try it out before going with something else. Even though I use it primarily at work I have repaired countless toys of the kids with it and repaired a lot of broken kitchenware. The stuff is really good.I also use a lot of 5 minute epoxy but it is a lot messier and more difficult to contain.Karl
How'd you make out with that green meanie stain?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
I tried to duplicate the stain at the shop with a scrap of the same stone and glue but never could. I poulticed the biggest stain twice and it was pulling the color out using Acetone as a solvent.Personally I think the homeowner or a family member left some blue paper or cardboard in a puddle of water and the dye leached into the stone. There were two small green stains that I didn't want to poultice until I knew more.The homeowner was quite agreeable to doing additional poultices on his own and his latest report was that he had continued poulticing it with satisfactory results.When he is content with it I will return and see how well it worked and reseal it for him. He is 45 minutes away so it would be difficult to drive for 1 1/2 hours and work for 15 minutes to renew the poultice. I have been hesitant to ask him about the green stains adjacent to the seams as they were relatively small and I don't want to attract any more attention to them then I already have.I know that after acetone he tried vinegar with no effect, and isopropyl alcohol with apparently good results.I still suspect the green stain from the toluidine accelerator is triggered by a alkaline environment. I should soak a scrap of granite in baking soda solution and let it dry and then try the glue.Now that you have reminded me, maybe I will do that today.Thanks for following up on it.Karl
I had a buddy that did what you do, he borrowed my Shellac Burn in sticks for touch up. A flat tipped solder iron ( or alcohol lamp for the amish (G)) and the sticks in many wood tones, will fix and fill many defects.
Quality Touch Up Products for
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
CA glue is perfect for what you want. I've used the Hot Stuff brand quite a bit, and I see that TiteBond is coming out with their own line of CAs
You can also buy CAglue at hobby shops although I don't know if the chemistry of those glues is designed for wood.
You should also buy the accelerant for the glue. If you think CA sets up fast all on its own, just wait until you hit it with the accelerant. But keep your fingers away from the glue joint. CA is VERY good at glueing fingers to wood.
How do I get to be part of those parties?
3M has one system...
ITW, Loctite and Bostik are some others....
I use the Bostik and the list of glues and applications is unreal... something for anything...
http://www.hotmelts.com/specifications.htm#BostikText
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WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I've never done exactly what you need, but I would admit (reluctantly) that hot glue has it's place. It's often scoffed at because it gets used for some artsy-craftsy and low quality work.
But I will admit that there are times when nothing will beat it. It sets as soon as it cools, and there are many different types. In general they range from weaker glues with longer open times to stronger glues with shorter open times.
Scott.
I never used hot glue for anything other than drawer fronts until about two weeks ago. Only reason is I was working elsewhere and that's what they had on site.
I'm impressed.
A couple of days later I used it for goofy stuff around my own house. A few pieces of trim that I needed in place NOW so I could do additional work around that trim. Non-structural.
Tested first, the stuff holds great. A little goes a long way. Working time is obviously minimal, so dry fit first, then get it done the first time around.
For inset drawer fronts, I hang the slides and then set the drawer box in place. I dry fit the drawer front, make sure the clearances are god, then pop a few dollops of glue, set the front, then install the pulls. Never had a problem due to the glue and the clearances are always perfect.
Only problem was self-induced. I glued a drawer front on upside-down. Just about destroyed the back of the drawer front and the front of the drawer box separating the two.
My trim guys use a hot glue gun for glueing returns and other minor stuff. I tested it. Held OK. I'd have to test it further before I fixed something like a chair leg that would have considerable weight and stress on it.