It’s been some time since I capped off the hot and cold copper pipes for the kitchen sink. I’m now getting close to installing the cabinet/sink/dishwasher (no dishwasher hookup before) and something tells me that the pipes may not be in the “normal” position. I don’t have (easy) access to the pipes in the basement so I’m wondering if anyone can suggest a way of determining which pipe is hot and which is cold without having to let the water run. I want to get the dishwasher hooked up first so that we can use it while I’m working on the rest of the cabinets.
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I don't know how long of a run it is in the basement untill you can see them, but be strange for then to cross over in a joist bay. That is assuming that where run at parallel runs. I worked on a house where the cold water entered on the south side of the house, ran all the way across the basement to the north side, then connected to a basement basement toilet and washer, split off for the kitchen, and then turned back south for risers to the first floor vanity and toilet, the turned left to feed the WH. The hot water then ran in a complete different path. So in that area you could not easily follow the path.
Here is something to try. Have someone tap on the on of the pipes with a screw driver or wrench. Then donw in the basement listen and feel each one. You should have a good differential to tell them apart.
Then try the other pipe for comfirmation.
Taking the hint from Bill Hartman I came up with this solution: I tied a short length of heavy guage insulated copper wire around the blade of my jig saw and wrapped the other end around the horizontal part of the copper pipe so that the saw was suspended mid-air. I turned the saw on low and plugged it in. The pipe vibrated like mad. I went down stairs to the hot water tank and located the pipe by the vibrations (by holding on to the pipe). (The sound transmitted though the floor, etc. was too loud to distinquish between hot and cold by ear alone).
I couldn't try Bill's idea as I am working alone today.
Bill Hartmann has a good idea. I don't understand why you don't want to run the water?? If you are willing to run the water, the solution is simple, buy a compression valve, shut off the main water supply, install valve, turn water back on and run water until the water flows hot or cold. If you own a VOM, install on hot or cold line and check your circuit, You will probably will have to extend one of the probes. LOL
"If you own a VOM, install on hot or cold line and check your circuit, You will probably will have to extend one of the probes. LOL"I started to suggest something similar using a tone tracer.But that pipes should have enough electrical interconnections at other faucets and the WH that it would not work.
I don't what to say, it has always worked for me.