ok here goes
customer of mine is planningto have new poured concrete and blue stone patio put on the back of house with new gunite pool
my question is what would be the best way to flash house against wall damage since patio will be agianst some of the wood structure of the house.
I plan to use lead coated copper. i will be replaceing sheathing on house with cca plywood and then putting water and ice shield and then a sheet of lead coated copper.
After blue stone is installed i will flash against it and reside with a space to let water escape
I am looking into have flashing post formed (not sure if this term is correct)
what do you think
Replies
I have done countless repairs (some major) to houses that had precast stairs, granite doorsteps, bricks, etc. installed tight to the sheathing or siding. Some houses as young as 10 yrs old.
I'm not just talking about punky sheathing and rotted jambs but totally deteriorated band joists and studs, as well as damaged floors. All of these problems could have been avoided if the masonry was simply kept off the wood. An inch or so of clear space, maintained to keep leaf litter and other crud out, is all that is necessary, more is better of course.
Your efforts sound valiant but I think that putting any masonry structure tight up against a wood framed house is one way to guarantee future work for a carpenter.
On the otherhand, if you replace the framing with PT, you might get a good 20 or 30 yrs out of it.
well me too but i am really thinking of using the sheet vinal as a water proofing and sheathing. They make a two part glue and sealer for the joints that would be cut at a thirty degree angle. I will use big headed s/s screws and seal them with the same two part chaulk.
It will safe time and money lead coated copper is in the 150 range for a 3 by 8 sheet. then i would need cca plywood and water and ice sheild.
so its a big savings to to mention time. we have a contractor show coming up on tues so i will see hands on the glue and sealer that they use.
thanks for the input
You're not letting them put bluestone around the pool are you?
Jeff
its not my house, its his choose. I only doing the carpentry work .
Has anyone seen any articles on this
Just tell him that his feet will burn off from the heat ...
Jeff
thats not my problem, thats between him and the designer(LOL)
You can also apply peel and stick membrane and I have also used Azek sheet goods. You can bury the stuff.
so your saying you used azek as the sheathing???
that might be a option in place of the cca sheathing
i would suppose i could fingerjoint the seams and seal then i might not have to you the copper or the icesheild.something to think about
Edited 3/7/2008 7:59 am ET by not just a carpenter
did you apply the peel and stick first and then use the azek
thats what i was thinking
If you use the PT plywood (which is a good idea) don't forget to use stainless or hot dipped sheathing nails. Also, if you are down to the framing, I'd really consider adding some PT to the bottoms of the studs, or at a minimum, using adding some cuprinol or similar biocide to whatever KD framing is in this wall. I'm assuming the plate is already PT.
If you bury all this wall behind bitch, flashing and vinyl, it'll keep out rain/runoff, etc. but will hold whatever moisture gets introduced from inside and/or below.
I have used the Grace peel & stick membrane and have also used Dibiten torch down roofing, then applied the Azek sheet goods 3/8 or 1/2 inch. SS nails only. Azek has their own brand of PVC glue, water soluable which enables one to be very neat. Have never had a problem. I have also done a 3x5 shower stall in the bead bd. & sheet goods came out great & NO leaks.
I think you have a design problem if there is going to be concrete up against a wood wall surface in any way, even with flashing
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i dont think the concrete is going directly up to the building but the bluestone is to be tight up against the house.
i really am looking for idea's on how to handle this i am sure as you read someone has come across this!!!
It's not that unusual. Think of all the houses built with treated wood foundations, or decks with concrete topping. Treated ply, membrane and flashing. Short of the flashing prematurely failing, what's to go wrong?