Housewrap – my favorite topic of late. Always used felt/tyvek until this job and now using Typar – I like the stuff – doesn’t tear as easily as felt, seems to seal out the air and not as slippery and hard to handle as Tyvek.
so now my question for the Breaktimers – I’ve sheathed this one down to the mudsill, and left the sheathing about 1/2″ up from the concrete foundation so as not draw moisture from the foundation into the plywood sheathing (which would be an invitation to rot). What do you do with the housewrap where it meets the foundation? Keep in mind I am the a**l retentive carpenter (remember the Saturday Night Live Sketch?)
With tar I’ve always cut off at the bottom of the sheathing, but I got to thinkin’ (always trouble) – what if I use caulk/staples to seal the housewrap to the mudsill – might keep the carpenter ants and termites off the sill, sheathing, etc for longer than if I don’t. Also might keep splashed dirt, water off sheathing. On the other hand might seal in any moisture that does accumulate behind the supposedly vapor permeable housewrap….that would be bad
The alternative is to just cut off the wrap flush with the sheathing, just like I used to before Typar
piddly question but curious what folks are doing out there….
All opinions welcome
Wylie
Formula for success = Work+ Risk + Luck
Replies
I did this ONCE on an addition - big PIA.
I took a 3 ' roll of Tyvek and layed it on top of the foundation - placed sill seal on top - then the treated mudsill. Left the Tyvek hanging down on the outside.
After deck and walls were framed, I pulled the Tyvek up onto the wall and lapped the wall Tyvek over it.
Altough this probably is as good a seal as can be expected at these joints, I never tried it that way again. Way to much hassle.
Now I prefer to use 9' sheathing and lap it to the mud sill that was put down with caulk applied to the top outer edge of the foundation, along with the sill seal.
Terry
Thanks - have you checked back on that job to see if you have any moisure/rot issues in the sheathing or sill? caulk still holding out?
what would you recommend for walling off an overhead garage door? (actually all of single width nine footer, and about half of a double width 16- leaving one single size door centered in a long wall). northern exposure in western north carolina and obviously pretty much right at grade? the walls are 2x4 stud w/ 1/2" osb, tyvek under vinyl siding (i know, i know, it came with the house). sills will be pt. i'm planning on pretty much the entire affected wall being re-sided in the process to disguise the alteration (though i'm giving some thought to neatly trimming out the blocked off door spaces rather than go to all the trouble. that would save me the most complicated part of the job but not look nearly as nice. but then again, it just faces the side road- not like i actually have to look at it very often)
thanks.
m
To make the filled in part blend as much as possible - frame in the openings as you describe, but sheet the bottom portion with Durarock up to the height of the existing foundation, with your 1/2" OSB from there up. If you really want to blend the foundation in, coat the Durarock and existing block with foundation coating (i.e. Thoroseal, etc.)
I'm perfectly happy using 15# felt rather than Tyvek under the siding.
Don't just trim out the blocked off doors and in-fill the siding, It will look like s***.
Terry
i'm not following the durock part? the wall in question basically goes right to the ground- there's not really any foundation showing above grade, just the edge of the slab. it's pretty much a 1300 sq ft, 6-car garage (split about 1/3-2/3 into two rooms) i'm converting to shop space and just don't need 2 singles and one double width overhead doors. when i'm finished it will just have two singles.
i realize that just trimming out the old blocked off sections won't look as nice (ok- like sh!t) but there's a couple other considerations: first is that it will entail completely residing a 55'L x 10+(part gable end) wall and all the hassle that entails. second is the distinct possibility we won't be staying in this house too much longer (actually, a positive financial situation may allow us to move up) and a prospective buyer may be more interested in extra garage spaces instead of shop space and want to convert it back anyway.
m
My mistake.
I just assumed the garage walls were supported by a foundation wall rather than on a slab on grade.
Terry