My carpenter built a countertop with a 6 inch rdaius and carried the radius to the base. It looks great. He used a melamine or some similar product on the base and told me to just stain it. I want a more finished look and have some toe kick which matches the other cabinet bases.
How do I bend the toe kick around the curve? It won’t bend around the 6 inch radius on it’s own. Do I cut a series of small slots on the back? Someone suggested I use steam to bend it but I don’t know how to go about it. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Replies
How thick is what you have and what is it made of?
Whatever it is, steam bending a 6" radius is difficult at best.
I had a similar problem at the base of a staircase. I used 1/4" oak veneer ply, kerfed the back and it bent without any trouble.
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It's 1/4" thick and is some sort of veneer. That's one of the reasons I was hesitant about use of steam. I think I'll stick with kerfing the backside. Did you use a router or dadoe on a table saw? What size kerf?
Thanks.
If my BC math is correct (doubtful) the difference in circumferential length of the inner and outer surfaces of a 1/4" thick piece curved into a 1/4 circle, 6" radius is 1.04".
So. You'll need enough kerfs at whatever width to add up to 1+".
Yah! I rechecked my math. This time I came up with .39". Do your own math!
In any case, the kerfs should penetrate all plys except the face and probably be 1/4" OC or closer. Run two or three beads of gap filling glue (liquid nail stuff) across and into the kerfs, and scrape it off flush before you bend.
Buy enough material to try twice.
I like to extend the kerf zone one kerf outside the bend zone on each side.SamT
>>"Did you use a router or dadoe on a table saw? What size kerf?
I used a SCMS and just set the depth of cut adjustment to leave the outer ply alone. Kerf width was the kerf width -- width of the saw blade. I made kerfs in the back at roughy 3/8" intervals. Once kerfed like that it bent as easy as a piece of rubber in the long axis.
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
One other possibility would be to wrap the base with veneer. PSA would be easy and you might be able to get matching finish from cabinet mfg.
http://www.tapeease.com/PSA_veneer_sheets.htm
PJ
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