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My wife and I are trying to build a summer cottage in northern WI this summer. We’ve settled on a design featured in F.H. (SUMMER CABIN IN THE LAND O’LAKES, by Johnathan Rousham vol. 103 June/July 96, also featured in More Small Houses) and purchased the plans from the author. Our problem is finding a builder that will not object to the idea of a summer cabin and the non-standard methods used in the construction. I find I have to spend all my time justifying to the builder why I want to build this thing. Am I stupid for wanting to build this thing? We only use it in the warmer months.
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Ted, Don't know your position but have You considered being your own contractor? Break the job down into what you think you can handle and go for it. Try the local lumber yards, they should know who may be willing or even eager to build something that is non traditional. If your time schedule allows, do some of the work yourself. Nothing like the feeling of building something Yourself and if you haven't had that feeling what are You waiting for? Whatever degree of involvement you choose good luck and enjoy. Skip
*Ted,I just reread the article about the house. Since you were able to contact the designer/builder for the plans maybe you could convince him to build your house, too. It took him 12 weeks to build the prototype on a rather difficult site. With that experience he should easily be able to beat that time. He might even be able to provide the same crew, even if it is eight years later. Or, maybe they don't let Canadians come across the borders to work.You shouldn't have to "justify" anything to a builder. Either he can do the job or he can't. There's no wishy-washy in between in my book. How about it, Mad Dog, are you close enough to help this guy out?Long distance rabble rouser, Ralph
*Ted,I vote for the "be your own contractor" method if you think you can swing it. If you are like us, though, and are unfamiliar with the steps it takes and the timing and order in which to do them, the job could be overwhelming. I suggest that you find a builder that you could hire as a "consultant" (or whatever term is correct) that would be able to guide you along through your building process. This person could make sure you understand the steps it will take to start and complete the job, make sure you plan a reasonable schedule, help get inspections, etc. In building our house, we found that some of the subs (our masons for example) would only work for a builder since he could get them additional jobs beyond ours...job security for them; your "consultant" would be useful in hiring subs who feel that way. The fee for the "consultant" would be less than that for the builder (50% ???) and you would have a strong hand in building your cabin the way you want it.
*Ted,I would have to agree with Joe on this subject, Find a "consultant" I myself am from northern WI.,Aurora to be exact. When looking for a consultant, look for a retired builder that would like a project to tackle, they have the know hows and are not afraid to get their hands dirty. Iam the construction manager at our local habitat for hummanity outlet and we have several helpers who are retired builders and can do this sort of service. contact me or visit my webpage at http://www.kreativedesigns.com, If you are building in the Land o lakes, I know a major contractor in that area that would be more than happy to help you find a "consultant".
*just my opinion but don't try to get a contractor talked into this. Find one that thinks it's a good idea the first time you mention it.Don't waste thier time or yours by "seeing" a hundred guys until you find one that says "Neat project". Call everybody and explain what you're looking for on the phone.We contractors try to weed out problem clients on the phone before going to see them. You can do the same thing.
*Everyone above has good advise, the only thing I did not see mentioned was "what" proccess he was balking at. Design is not a major issue I worry about when building a project, as with the colors of certain things, its the clients choice, they want a purple living room....purple it is! But keep in mind, the fastest way I know of to T-off the contractor, is to hire him/her for what he/she knows, and then tell him things like "Norm did'nt do it that way on his show?"All I'm trying to say is, I've read a lot of blueprints, and not once other than special circunstances do they come with a list of "A fits to B, IF you do this first". If your reading the proccess out of a magazine, along with a set of prints, theres more than one way to skin a cat.I know I've given both sides of the coin here, but above all make yourself comfortable and happy, find the contractor that will do what you want him/her to do.
*Ted, potential contractors may balk at the "non-standard methods used in construction" for a variety of reasons... First, many of us prefer to build things in a tried-and-true manner which permits us to do what we do best with a minimum of learning curves, pricing contingencies and liabilities. We also must recognize that building inspectors are necessarily tied to "standard" building code interpretations, and we must please these folks along with the client. Additionally, the contractor may feel that certain aspects of the design are not suited for the local environment (i.e., footings, foundations). My guess is that both you and the contractor you choose will each need to flex a bit to achieve the desired product. For your mutual protection, document in writing any deviations you may agree upon from the published plans.One thing we can all agree on: Pursue your dream!Good luck, Steve
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Ted: I agree that you should consider being your own general contractor and hiring out the subs. However, I can tell you that it is very time consuming. With the short summers in northern Wisconsin, you won't have much time to build your cabin before winter arrives. From my own experience. . . when I moved to west Texas, I wanted an English Tudor house and builders in my area would only build southwest style, so I acted as my own general contractor. I hired the subcontractors myself, purchased all the materials, and got the building permits.. It was difficult to hire some of the subcontractors, however. I agree with Keith about hiring a retired builder as consultant; that is exactly what I did. I do recommend also hiring an engineer or architect to design the foundation and look over the framing structure. A good foundation in your area is especially critical because of the deep frostline and other problems, such as expansive soils. The engineer or architect should also inspect the foundation, while it is under construction. I hired an engineer to design the retaining walls, framing structure, and foundation. He also inspected those areas at critical points. To find the subs, I went around to various jobsites and talked to the subcontractors. Some subs gave me a good price and were agreeable; others charged me more for their work than they would have charged a regular builder. One caveat: subcontractors also have their own way of doing things and they also may resist change; however, hiring subcontractors directly does give you a little more leeway.
Bonnie B.
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Have not seen the article. What are the non-standard building methods that they are objecting to?
*Hey, I just found this thread. I'll email and see if that's feasible. I have a lot of work right now, would have to see if it could be fit in. (I don't have that issue, not familiar with the cabin) Thanks for thinking of me Ralph.MD
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My wife and I were inspired by that design. I liked the fact that the (plywood) sheathing was the interior panelling, and that the 4x4 studs were exposed to the inside. We went in our own design/build direction for our camp - 4x6 studs 3' oc with 1x6 T&G pine sheathing exposed on the inside. We love our place now...it is unique and would probably shock a contractor as the framing is so unconventional. I think if you went with the exact design as the article you'd get real sick of looking at plywood as your inside walls. I also thought that those site-built custom windows looked like a lot of expensive work, when you could probably get decent factory built windows that would perform better for the same money. I'm not surprised that contractors are freaking out at that design. My wife and I designed and built the whole thing ourselves, hammering every nail, roof and all. I have often commented about our camp that there is NO WAY I could have gotten someone to build it for me. Good luck in your quest.
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Ted Buck,
Your project looks neat. I was just thumbing through the article. The only thing I'd consider changing, being from Wisconsin and all, is insulating! If your looking to see some beams you could timber frame the structure. Are you sure you won't want to come up and ski, snowmobil, or watch the Birkebiner? It's pretty that time of year. Assuming your not freezing your tail off.
Drop me a line @ [email protected]
Full Circle Construction
David Taylor
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David, thank for the input. Yes we do like to ski and have even watched the birke (when there's snow). We have a small "unibomber" cabin on the same property (10x12) that is insulated, quickly heated and sleeps 4. It's great for the few times we visit in the winter, but we want a bigger space for summer and the flow of visitors that show up.
I'd like to thank everyone for their input. We've put the project on hold until we decide how much of the project we want to do ourselves. If we didn't have to work we'd love to do it all ourselves but the reality is we just can't right now. Maybe in a couple years...
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My wife and I are trying to build a summer cottage in northern WI this summer. We've settled on a design featured in F.H. (SUMMER CABIN IN THE LAND OLAKES, by Johnathan Rousham vol. 103 June/July 96, also featured in More Small Houses) and purchased the plans from the author. Our problem is finding a builder that will not object to the idea of a summer cabin and the non-standard methods used in the construction. I find I have to spend all my time justifying to the builder why I want to build this thing. Am I stupid for wanting to build this thing? We only use it in the warmer months.
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I like the design. Its featured on pages 86 thru 89 in Fine Homebuildings' July 1996 issue (No. 103).
It's sort of a "cross" between a pole building and a timberframe. The foundation is 18 inch dia concrete piers with 6 X 6 Cedar posts sitting on top. The posts are evenly spaced out and are notched out on each face to accept a 2 X 10 joist. The 2 X 10s are actually doubled on each side (though the 6 X6 is notched out to recieve only one each) and through bolted; using special metal plates as washers. This beam becomes the main girder for the 2 X 8 floor joists to rest on. The joists run perpendicular to the girder.
The 6 X 6s extend from floor level to roof top; whereby these posts are notched at the 2nd story level and at the rafter connection to recieve a "doubled" 2 X 10 beam; similar to the floor treatment.
Davo.