*
Planning a deck with square drive deck screws – should I use a standard drill or one with a clutch?
Will it tear up the clutch?
What brand drills have stronger clutches?
*
Planning a deck with square drive deck screws – should I use a standard drill or one with a clutch?
Will it tear up the clutch?
What brand drills have stronger clutches?
Fine Homebuilding's editorial director has some fun news to share.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2024 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 70%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
*
I would use a screwgun. The 28 yr old Milwaukee Magnum I have has been the most reliable tool in my box. Loads of work, several falls and a little abuse. Brushes and a quick disconnect cord (25ft) are the only service she's received. 99.00 new back then. Cheap won't last as long nor have the guts to drive deck screws, tapcons etc. If you don't want to bend over, check out the extended auto feeds. One deck, bend over. Predrill the ends of the decking.
*14.4 cordless. magnum drill doesn't slow down quickly enough when you near the end of the drive. square drive head is difficult to disengage from the bit while still spinning, resulting in overdriving of the screw. you won't be using the clutch, as each board will require different torque to achieve a flush drive of the screw head. i like my bosch, lots of guts. i own a magnum, but it's for drilling, not finish. slow tool, with the chuck and all, when you're doing finish.
*Stainless twist siding nails....hammer...self twirling...no screwdriving.near the better decked stream,aj
*You might at least look at the "Deckmaster" system. That has special screws that come with it that have the square bit in it, plus they are a bit wider than your typical deck screw. They screw from underneath. We did that on our first deck, and it is very attractive! It was well worth the extra time and expense. The screws did a great job pulling the board tight to the joists no matter what drill we used (and we have an assortment). There are ads for the system in Fine Homebuilding magazine every month.
*I wouldn't bother with a clutch model, it'll never set the screws right. My Magnum seems to drive them too deep.I like to use my 14.4 volt Makita cordless set on drill to drive the screws then stop when the head is just below the surface of the deck They do make screw guns for decks, Milwaulkee among others. I would look for something with 1200 rpm's
*Panasonic or Makita 14.4 VAC drills will drive thousands of deck screws and you won't wear them out. Adjust clutch to countersink the heads. I use these all the time with 1" to 3.5" deck screws day after day.
*Nathan, This magnum be a screwgun, with depth adjustment. No torque clutch. Made for screwing. Variable speed 0-4000 rpm if I can make out the worn plate. FWIW.
*Thot the magnum you were refering to was the 1/2" magnum drill, chuck key and all. I'm telling you, though, the cordless drills are soo nice. Bought my first one for the current deck project. Can't imagine dragging a cord around now.happy buildingAJ, screws hold better than nails, look nicer, and allow you to repair damaged decking easily. I've had to go back and re-nail more than one deck that had boards popping around 16d galv casing nails. I don't expect to ever have to re-screw a deck.near the big bag of #8 ss screws (2,400 on one 240 sq ft deck)
*We use the 12volt Makita impact/ratchet drive because it will screw into the knots of your joists w/o stripping the screw or bit.They cost about $250 but well worth the money.
*Nathan...I screwed down decking years ago...owned the first autofeed gun too. It now sits idle. I nail subfloor, ringshank nails...and nail decks...No problems with nails backing out...the heads are smaller and prettier to me. and I like nailing... the nicest finish is to blind attach from side or underneath...but that comes with an upcharge in cost too.My way by my stream,aj
*Interesting - the company making the treated wood "strongly recommends" screws. One reason is they say that nail guns overdrive the nails. But on afterthought, its really easy to overdrive the screws too. And the heads are bigger. Will be easier to take out a piece though.But more money for the screws.
*AJ -I am sure your nailed decks are very nice. No doubt the love shows, where the water flows.Pro deck. Never thot about that one, sounds logical. Have you ever tried driving through a harder wood like teak, or mahogany? I imagine that there might be the problem of proud screw heads, that wouldn't sink flush, but maybe you know differently.
*Here's an idea for the tool makers: A digital screw gun.It should be possible to put a shaft encoder in the screw gun to count revolutions, and for each pull of the trigger, the gun would run up to a pre-set number of turns, and stop. If the screws all grab and start about the same, you could set the turn count to sink them all exactly the same. At least this should be more uniform than clutch torque. The tool could also have a two position trigger switch -- pull all the way to run to the count setting, or just a touch for a quarter turn or some other increment.What do you think?-- J.S.
*nathan wegemer-We use a #10 2 1/2' stainless screw for Trex,and a 2" for Ironwood.Stainless heads will break If over tightened though.
*do you have to pre-drill the ironwood, or just ratttle it on through? 1x, or 5/4?
*Use a depth regulated screw gun and keep your eyes open. Careful, soon you'll have a tool that doesn't need you.
*Not needed with my hammer.
*b WBA At Your ServiceI use my Yankee.......
*Nathan Wegemer-Yes we pre-drill all composit and Iron wood decking with the Dewalt "rapid load" coutersink bit.
*I used a drywall screwgun. By the way for all you statesiders, those are Robertson screws. Buy yourself a REALLY GOOD bit, if you use a cheap one you will curse loudly, and you will be outside, after all.I nailed one of my decks (2x6 fir) and boy it was a PAIN. It went okay but the galvanized roundhead nails I used had it in for my left thumb and forefinger. The hardness of the wood made for a lot of bent nails too. Only one thing with the deck screws, the heads may sometimes split or pucker the surface of the wood around them. It'll be difficult to notice in time, and the alternative (countersinking) may trap even more moisture. BTW what material are you using for the deck, is it 5/4 or 2x stock?
*
Planning a deck with square drive deck screws - should I use a standard drill or one with a clutch?
Will it tear up the clutch?
What brand drills have stronger clutches?