My 1927 cottage was resided maybe 30-40 yrs ago. Now some boards are punky (rot? insects?). So I bought some new boards and hired a handyman who will remove bad and replace w/ new primed boards.
So, now I wonder best way to remove only the several bad T&G boards from various sections. Will there be a problem “unlocking” the bad ones from the grooves on the ok ones above?
No doubt this plan will not be a long term solution. But as I near my 80th b/day, it should suffice for the nonce, give a better more weathertight appearance @ minimal $, for a long as I reside here.
Thanks for advice. Paul
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The general technique for removing T&G boards is to make a saw cut (or two) through the length of the board, so you can remove it as two halves. Keep in mind that the tongue edge will generally be nailed through and will take a bit of putzing to remove.
To reinstall a single board the general technique is to cut off the back side of the groove so the board will slip into place, then face-nail. If the previous tongue-edge nails could not be completely removed, it may be necessary to notch the tongue around them.
Of course, in any such effort a degree of "invention" may be required.
My mind is half dead today, but I think of novelty siding as a shiplap type pattern. I could be wrong.Anyways, I almost always have to remove more than I think when replacing siding.That is, until I bought my Fein Multimaster. Tht tools keeps things surgically precise.
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I think of something sided with whoopie cushions, but I was just going with the flow.Certainly, if it's shiplap it should come off somewhat easier -- one would just pry up the course above a bit, remove the nails, then take the board out.A Multimaster would definitely come in handy in some spots, both for cutting away boards with minimal damage to adjacent ones, and for cutting through nails.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
also scraping blade for cutting the caulk joints and paint joints so the bad piece slips free without splintering the piece above it.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
True.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
Dan, do BigBoxes sell Multimaster, or who does?When I ordered the boards from local supply, they knew exactly what "novelty siding" was. Must be a regional thing to CT...If you Google Griffis Lumber.com,
there's a photo of novelty siding. (I don't know the diff betw shiplap and t&g/ but never mind... The new boards are exactly same as old stuff.Thanks, all you guys! I will pass on the collective wisdom to the
guy doing it.
The Fein Multimaster is not available in the big box stores.You need to go to a construction or woodworking tool store and many online tool stores.If you put in your zip code and look for ones that list the Multimaster product.http://www.feinus.com/Fein-us_german/dealers/dealer-ziplocator.cfmIt is on the costly side.The BB stores do have corded Dremel version and cordless Bosch version. They are less powerful but will probably do the this job.It is the Dremel 120V Multi-Max Oscillating Kit. And Bosch PS50 Oscillating tool.http://www.toolsnob.com/archives/2008/10/dremel_dremel_multimax_oscilla.php
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William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Yeah, as Bill indicates, you probably won't find a MultiMaster in any of the BBs, but you can find knock-offs that are cheaper (a real MM costs $$$$) and will likely work about as well for this duty.
This would be considered shiplap/dutch lap, not tongue&groove:
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(If it is cypress, that stuff makes pretty good siding.)
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
This company list both a EPW #106 pattern, which is T&G and EPW #105 which is the same except in ship-lap.And I think some companies label almost any drop siding as "novelty".To the OP, I would suggest verify of what you have if it means removing one of the boards before getting the replacement and cutting out a large number of them.Also they are listed for a number of different widths..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Older Novelty siding or 'German' or '105' or 'drop siding' is most always shiplap as indicated.
This - View Image
Rather than this - View Image