Hi,
I am replacing carpet on my stairs with harwood panels. I have done 10 straight treads but stuck with the last three winding steps (90 degree bend). These are triangular/trapezoidal shaped. Is there a way to make these steps from the standard 10″ treads that I used for the other steps.
I would really appreciate that if someone could please guide me how to build these steps.
Thanks.
– KK
Replies
Thanks Clewless1, really appreciate that!!
Hello Clewless1,
Thanks for the guidance buddy. I am going to get the tool today. Not much information is available on the net on this topic.
Thanks again.
-kk
You don't need any biscuits in edge to edge glue ups. They are essentially useless. You do need a good fit edge to edge, glue and clamp. Be careful keeping faces flush or use cauls to keep them even during glue up. As an alignment aid, biscuits are +,- 1/16" not exactly much help. They don't work unless you get full expansion of the biscuits. If you do, they may telegraph to the surface, but you seldom get complete expansion. They have their uses but not in edge gluing.
Thanks Hammer1
Hello Hammer1,
Thanks for your valuable input. Just one question, how do I make sure that the panel stays level (thickness wise).
Thanks again.
- kk
Hammer is right.
And how you glue up and keep the two pcs in perfect alignment is to make sure your ripped edge is true (sq. with the face of the board) and then the tops are even with each other all along the top (and then of course, if same thickness, it'll be the same down on the bottom). I apply Titebond II or III to both edges, you don't want it to dry out b/4 you get it fully clamped.
To check after snugging up (or during the tightening) I use my fingers. You feel a ridge, you-a hammer and a block-even it up. Start at one end, the middle, the other end.............whatever works, and make that joint feel as smooth as you can.
On edge cross blocking with clamps will work, but getting it smooth as you tighten your pipe/bar clamps works most of the time and will get you ahead of the game.
If you can afford to sand this joint, you can make this joinery disappear. Be careful not to sand in one spot so you make a dip or gouge.
And don't leave all sorts of work for the sander, it's best if perfect in glueup.
Thanks Calvin for the valuable tips!!
Hi Calvin,
Thanks for the valuable tips. I will definitely keep these tips in mind and will post the pics once I am done.
Once again thanks Calvin, Hammer1 and Clewless1 for the guidance.
- KK
kk
B/4 glueup, find the best fit with your pcs. and then make them better. Any gap between the two can cause problems later. Sure, you can pull together a slight gap, but it's better if you don't. Try for the best combination of edge fit.
Most of these tips we've picked up are from personal experience of the information from others. Some work, some work not so good. Many aren't needed, but are invaluable when they are.
Many times I've been going along real nice and something pops up that needs to be dealt with. It's then a scramble to come up with the answers that let me proceed. It's good to know what might happen so you by some lucky coincidence, you've got the materials at hand to deal with it.
Now that I think about it, luck is one of the better things to have at your side when working with wood.
Best of luck.
Those of us in the business have jointers, which makes fitting and getting things straight easy. It's a bit more difficult without one. I also use it to make cauls, straight pieces that are clamped on both faces of a panel glue up. These keep everything in line. A perfect fit between the edges is essential in getting a glue line that will hold over the long term.
Confident Now!!!
Hey Guys,
With all the feedback that you guys are providing, I am feeling very confident in handling this task.
Thanks a lot!!!
kk
Notice he has waxed paper (or visqueen) under the cauls he's using to clamp the boards flat. This keeps you from inadvertingly gluing them to the panel.