Well the idiot Tiling sub didn’t fully cut the openings for the electrical boxes. The switch plates can’t be installed because the screw openings are backed by the tile. The boxes aren’t flush with the openings, even if they were cut correctly. I guess the outlet boxes need extenders. He’s been fired, obviously, and now I need to enlarge the openings.
The tiles are 18×18 in. porcelain and very expensive!! They really can’t be replaced, they have a grain that was painstakingly matched.
Any ideas on how to enlarge the openings, without water cooling, and with what tool?
Replies
I don't think you want to enlarge the openings themselves, if the devices fit in the existing box. Merely drill - ream - cut with a diamond blade in a multimaster the area behind the screws that won't fix the cover plate.
or
cut the cover plate screws shorter-so a thread or 2 makes it into the device screw hole, but doesn't go and hit the tile.
Those decora plates are like that.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Calvin,
I am sure we must work together sometimes.
Because of your response, I will not read any more of this thread.
u da man![email protected]
I don't know exactly how to take your proclamation. We should work together, if for no other reason than we'd finally meet face to face instead of just a nod across the tent.
Evidently my attitude must ring a bell........
I understand the code issue of box to finish surface. And would use a sleeve if it fit...........or could be "modified" to fit. But I also tape the device and if the box was right b/4 tile started-my tile guy or me would not infringe on the box opening. Nor would we make it impossible to get that damn decora coverplate on street legal. After everything is done and the homowner is all cherried out is a bit late for drastic measures.
But then again, this from a dumb carpenter.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Tile is non combustible so the ring is not needed.
Our electricians tape all devices in the backsplash as a matter of fact.
I guess my statement was directed mostly at the cutting of the screws. I have a nice screw cutter going, so nice that I hardly ever bother to notch the tile anymore so it clears the cover screws.
And yes, damn Decoras.........
It is uncanny at times the smilarities of our methods and practices. i take note constantly while reading posts here.
It was all good.
Eric[email protected]
There goes our "one of a kind" handle I guess.
Now, if we just thought alike politically-there goes the neighborhood!
So, any interest in you and the lovely wife sliding over to Indiana in August?A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Right now it's not looking good.
Our annual summer cycling trip is just about then.[email protected]
Well then practice up and anualize yourselves 600 mi's west.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Do-able.[email protected]
more about your screw shortening operation.
always looking for a better way.
btw ... I agree. tile ain't gonna burst into flames ... neither.
but I ain't smart enough to figure out shortening the screw ...
I'da nipped a little triangle with the same angle grinder I cut the tiles with.
I coulda nipped the tile off all around the box ... but wouldn't ...'cause of that whole tile not burning deal.
so ... what's the easy way to shorter screws ....
feel free to get back to the real Q sooner or later!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
You might try a RotoZip with a tile cutting bit or an angle grinder with a continuous rim diamond blade.
Elections belong to the people. It is their decision. If they decide to turn their back on the fire and burn their behinds, then they will just have to sit on their blisters. ~ Abrahan Lincoln
If the sockets and switches fit in to the holes or cutouts left for them but the problem is with the mounting screws.
The mounting screws can be cut down a little to fit, or you could use a "glass drill" to give clearance for the screws. Use blue tape to keep the drill started in the right place. Don't use hammer mode.
There's a diamond tile cutting bit you can get for a Rotozip.
If the electrical box had been set to the correct depth instead of being recessed, then the tile guy would have had no choice but to cut around it. But you already knew that.
Billy
No really new thoughts.
I'm with the others, just deal with a clearance hole / slot for the screws.
Diamond blade in a grinder, tile burr for a rotoZip, shorten the screws a bit.
Remember that your hole / slot does not have to be beautiful - that's why they call them cover plates.
Jim
THANKS FOR THE REPLIES!! I guess I'll try that new Hitachi Diamond Core Bit and just make openings for the screws. I thought that the electrical code required the boxes to extend to the surface of the finished wall. I know that this is the inspection problem I've had with 'Rocked walls in the past.
>>electrical code required the boxes to extend to the surface of the finished wall. <<
The electrical box extension rings will cure that part of the problem. Available in plastic or metal.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
OK . So as I thought, I need to enlarge the openings in the tile, not just allow for the switchplate screws to be placed. Electrical Code requires the box to extend to the finished surface in case of arcing. This is to prevent the possibility of the wall catching on fire.So is there some way I can cut the installed porcelain tile without water??I'm also going to need to make some kind of mini wall to keep the dust down, in the area of the cut. The remainder of the room is finished and drawers are filled.
Did the tile guy cover the edge of the boxes with the tile?
Box extenders slip inside of the boxes not outside.
Cut without water?
1) Try an abrasive blade on a jig saw with shop vac held close to blade during cut - an extra hose attached to the exhaust and poked out of a window helps with "after dust".
2) continous rim, dry cut blade in 4-1/2" grinder will certainly cut it - but it sure is not dustless. Same shop vac scenario as #1.
3) can you use tile nibblers ? - least dusty
A soaking wet rag laid below the cut area will help catch some of the thrown dust from grinder or saw.
Jim Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Use a spray bottle with water. You dont have to keep it flooded just cool and flush the cuttings away. Turn off the breaker right? Any diamond bits will work nicely. A Dremel tool or Rotozip will work . Heck,a drill with your bit will work.
If the Roto Zip doesn't work try a Dremel with a 1 inch composite cut off blade in it. Slow it down and you have a lot of control.
I'd try a 4" or 4 1/2" angle grinder with a continuous rim diamond blade made to cut wet or dry, and cool the tile as you're cutting it with a continuous stream of air from your compressor hose. Obviously, the air can't cool as well as water would but you said no water. It'll be dusty though.
Yeah. Sucks, eh?
Angle grinder, diamond blade. I'm cautious enough that I would also put down some material to protect the counter. Just in case.
No need to rush anything.
I would use a 4" diamond blade in an angle grinder to slot the tile. When your done use plastic spark rings over the device and into the box. The inspector will like that. Make sure you don't cut so much tile out that the plaster ears of the recept miss tile. It's a PITA but really that big a deal.
Former sparky whos worked with the same kind of tile guy.