I am down to my last sheet of drywall on a hundred year old remodel and am a bit perplexed. I need to hang the drywall around a chimney that goes through my living room ceiling. The chimney is 5’x4′. The framing has been headed off and brought to one inch of the chimney. My thoughts were to cut the rock as close as possible and use a fire resistant caulk to finish the job. Is there a better way???
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works for me
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I am down to my last sheet of drywall on a hundred year old remodel
man, and I thought I was slow about finishing up my place!
View Image"...everyone needs to sit on a rock, listen to the surf, and feel the ocean breeze in their face once in awhile."
cambriadays.com
LOL, Dad always introduced people to our house as "Started in 1832 and ain't finished yet!"
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Lol...good one. Ya beat me to it.
I dont know about the caulk, any movement between the framing and the masonry will leave the caulk sticking to the masonry
I would be inclined to flat tape it
I normally run a large bedmold or crown around it.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I would use something called easy edge. It's a plastic edge bead that you stick on with spray adhesive. The drywall suppliers sell it. It may be called something else.
Anyhow, hang your board like you were going to caulk the edge. Stick this edge bead on with the contact cement. Then mud the bead as you are doing regular corner bead corners. It will look nice. You probably won't even caulk the joint between the brick and edge bead.
From: sawzall 9:47 pm
You probably won't even caulk the joint between the brick and edge bead.
Probably it would be an air leak ..... should be air sealed.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
Edited 6/16/2009 11:12 pm ET by PatchogPhil
We just had this problem on a remodel we're doing, a floor to ceiling stone chimney in a kitchen. We got the sheetrock to within about 1/2" of the stone and then filled the space with backer rod stuck in about 3/4". Over that we pointed the gap with Structo-lite lightweight mortar. Painters complained about having to cut in to the mortar line, but it looks great.
Usually I leave about a quarter inch gap between rock & brick. Then mask off the brick with duct-tape, then take window foam and carefully apply a small bead to the crack allowing it to expand in front of and behind the brick & rock. After that's hardened, I saw the foam off with a serrated knife so it's flush with the rock, clean up the surface of the rock and then mud it with durabond to a feathered edge (I use POP mixed with JC), pull your duct tape off and clean any leakage. No need to tape the joint, the foam provides both the air seal and the expansion material with strength enough that it won't separate from the rock causing a crack.
It's a little fussy, but it's worth it and if you work clean & careful, it doesn't take that much time. A foam bead like that will harden in a few hours & it can be done & finished easily in that time. I've never had any problems with a joint cracking when I do it this way.
By the way, it's 2" clearance to combustibles from a chimney in most codes.
Jeff