The edge of our sink got a chip in it over the weekend, is there anyway to fill the chip? Expoy? Some type of resin? The sink is a undermount stainless and the granite has a 1/4 round edge to it. The chip is about 1/4″ x 1/4″ but since it is right on the edge it is very abvious and sharp also I am afraid it is going to get bigger. Thoughts? TIA – Mark
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Replies
I would try epoxy or cyanacrylate superglue). If you have some scrap pieces to practice with that woule be a good idea.
Doug
Don't have the chip unfortunatly.
Do you still have the chipped-out piece? I would use a slow setting epoxy to reattach it. The faster setting epoxies seem to be thicker, and might not let the chip set all the way back in.
If you don't have the chip, I would go to a granite fab shop and ask for some chips in the same color, then grind them into a powder and mix into the epoxy, and try to sculpt a patch.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I do have some samples that are close to the final piece so I might be able to get some color matched pieces from there and grind those down to use as a filler.
Talk with the guys at Knots, get a suggestion for a dye that you could add to the epoxy to tint it. My experience is that you can polish the epoxy to a decent shine with wet 400-600 grit paper.
What color is the stone?
BTW ... do you need advice on how to post pictures? :)
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I could use a little help with this attachment thing got any advice? :)
Here's a tip if you want to try filling it with epoxy resin, first, get some of the really slow setting stuff because it's stronger. Make a form around the chip by taping flexible plastic to the granite, this is to stop the epoxy running away before it sets.
When you mix the epoxy, use a heat gun or hairdryer to warm it. This will cause the air in it to expand, form bubbles which will then come to the surface. You will know when all the air is out because the epoxy will be transparent instead of cloudy. Also it will be runny and will be easier to handle.
Warm the form as well, pour the epoxy in to slightly overfil the form and use the heat gun again to warm the whole lot which will get rid of any trapped air.
Let the whole thing set for a few hours, when it's fairly firm remove the plastic and use a sharp blade to pare the still soft epoxy til it's approximately the right shape but still bulging. When it's properly hardened you can use some fine silicon carbide abrasive to get the final shape. Polishing will make the epoxy transparent and colour matching will not be an issue
John
Edited 1/3/2006 3:19 pm by john
I guess I should have been more specific I don't have the missing piece. what I was thinking was to use the epoxy or whatever to fill the space then "sand" it smooth to match. I will take a picture tonight to help illustrate the problem. My concern is the color matching since most epoxies I have seen dry opaque. I think a clear would work out ok. Any brand of epoxy that you would recomend? Thanks -M
You will find what you are looking for at http://www.akemina.com/It is available from stone slab suppliers and sculpting art suppliers. $$Click on Epoxy Based Adhesives or Polyester & Acrylic Based Adhesives.In the Epoxy Based material, you would want to use the Akepox 2030 which has a good consistancy for what you need and it can be tinted. If you go Poly or Acrlyc get the Marmorkitt 1000 - Knife grade and the appropriate tints.The tints for each are different. You may need 2 different colors of tint. I mix the tints together until I get the color I want and then mix it with the adhesive. Then I add the hardener. The adhesive, in either case, is clear.DO NOT heat these materials up. You only have 10 min of working time at room temp after adding the hardener. Applying heat will only lessen your working time. After 15 - 20 min you can use a single edge razor to sculpt the material to the stone's contour. Be very careful when sanding/ buffing out. Files will also leave an undesireable mark. You do not want to injure the existing stone. Results are best, when you only use the razor to get the form and finish you want.One more thing: I find using one layer of masking tape around the patch gives the proper build-up. Any more than that and you have more work to do to get it off. After you apply it and it begins to setup, remove the tape and plane/ shave the excess height with the straight razor. Then sculpt the curve of the edge or bullnose. Hope this helps.FrankieThere he goes—one of God's own prototypes—a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die.—Hunter S. Thompson
from Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas
Excellent. That's one for my files. Thx.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Frankie,
That is exactly what I was looking for. I will let you know how it turns out. Many Thanks. I will be sure to post before and after pics. Didn't get a chance to snap any photos last night.
My concern is the color matching since most epoxies I have seen dry opaque. I think a clear would work out ok. Any brand of epoxy that you would recomend?
I'm in the UK so am unaware of the US brands. What you need is any non coloured, non filled epoxy of the slow setting type, and you should be OK
The opaqueness is caused by fillers or trapped air. Get a SLOW setting adhesive and you will be able to heat it no problem. Epoxies that are made for this purpose are not suitable because they are fast setting, as they need to be in a commercial situation.
The heating is essential to drive out the trapped air
JohnIf my baby don't love me no more, I know her sister will.
If you don't mind me asking, how did the granite get chipped? Might be good info for me to pass on to my customers - ie, for example: "granite will chip, so be carefull not to drop any metal pans on it..."
To be perfectly honest we are not sure how it got chipped but upon closer inspection last night we discovered there is another area that also has a small chip in it. Being that this is along the edge of the sink I am suspecting that it got hit by a pan/pot when someone was doing dishes...
I have always thought of granite as being almost indestructable and clearly I am wrong as this counter is only 6 months old and already has 2 chips in it. I am wondering if edge profile is at the root of the problem.
might be time to call a pro rather than trying DIY approach . If it where me I would talk to a few granite guys and let one of them do it.
I have considered that. But I do have several scrap pieces from the install so whatever method I decide to go with I am going to try out first. Since this has happened 2 times in less than a year I figure I had better learn how to do it myself. I have not heard back from the granite guys yet if the price is right well then that will make the decision easy. Thx
Edited 1/4/2006 10:57 am ET by SYSOP
Just a thought... If the profile is too severe, it may make it more prone to chipping. Maybe you can ask the installers if it's possible for them to do a different edge profile on site? Might be expensive or impractical but what's the harm in asking?
PaulB
I had the same thought. Sounds like it's not a nice round-over profile.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I had a similar chip appear mysteriously in the edge of our granite countertop after 2 to 3 years of use. DW did find the chipped out piece, or most of it. I called the original maker of the counters, and he sent someone to fix it with the chip and some colored epoxy. Took him maybe 20 minutes from arrival to departure, with a near-perfect repair. I'm still waiting for the bill to arrive, and that was a year ago!! Great manufacturer.
Might be well worth it to call your supplier.
Bob