tapes came off along the join of tall vaulted ceiling (20+ feet) and walls, once I figure out how to reach them (scaffolding may be?), how to fix them permanently? reap off all tapes, more screws, re-tape, re-plaster joint?
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Sounds like a warranty issue. How old is the work? The only right fix I know of is to remove the tape and re-tape the joint, then re-texture over. Scaffolding for sure. Can't see any need for new screws, unless you're saying that the boards themself are coming loose?
"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
They probably used blue or purple lid joint compound, which I understand doesn't have as much adhesive in it as the green lid compound.
Kimball
The house was built 12 years ago, sheet rock nails popped out in early year because of settlling, but tapes never came off until recently. I don't know why. since it only happens on high ceiling at one side of the house, my amateur knowledge make me think that may be caused by wind??
What type of tape I should use for fix?? self-adhisive stays put better than non-adhisive tapes??
Thanks
I think you get a better job when the tape is embedded in fresh joint compound (not topping, as someone pointed out). The joint compound acts as adhesive, so self-adhesive tape isn't needed. If you use paper tape, wet the tape in a bucket of water before applying, to avoid dry-spot bubbles.
Either way (paper or fiberglass mesh), apply another layer of joint compound over the tape as you apply it. Let that dry, sand lightly, and apply another coat of joint compound. Let that dry, sand lightly, and apply a coat of topping mud. Let that dry, sand lightly, and apply texture. Let that dry, sand very lightly, and apply primer."he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
FWIW Myron Ferguson aka the "Drywall guy" on JLC online, you might consider setting compound. It is a powder that you mix up. He says it is stronger. I have E-Z Sand 45 on hand which says it is a setting-type compound.
john
Don't use lightweight or easy-sand for the bedding coat. Either all-purpose pre-mix, or the setting type which comes as a dry powder.
The paper tapes are usually superior to the mesh ones. There is a brand available that is a perforated paper tape with a light adhesive, but you're better off smearing a coat of mud into the joint, then l;aying in the tape.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Don't use lightweight or easy-sand for the bedding coat. Either all-purpose pre-mix, or the setting type which comes as a dry powder.
I wouldn't use all-purpose here, either. Use taping compound, or a setting type. And yup, paper tape is alot stronger and since this a trouble spot, thatis what should be used.
If you've had popping nails and tape failure after 12 years, like Philip said it would be wise to check for moisture problems.
Well, I'd check to see if there was any dampness in that location before I'd blame the wind.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright (North of Toronto)
good point, but would I see any wet marks on joint area?
The trouble is, it may be dry most of the time and only soft from condensation of leakage once in a while; but yah, look for dampness or soft compound right in the joint
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright (North of Toronto)
Agree on possibly not needing more screws. Sounds like there wasn't proper adhesion of the tape to the sheetrock. If the tape was stuck well and you had some wall movement, you would see either wrinkled tape or cracks, but not loose tape.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt