How to fix this
Doing a window replacement in a garage. Found some rot and termites.
One story. 34′ of wall on a gable end. Brick part way up the outstide wall with about 2′ of dirt piled against it and lush landscaping. Sprinkler system.
The windows leaked badly and I suspect some dampness has seeped through the bricks in other places.
All the cripple studs under the windows are shot. About 15-20′ of bottom plate is bad.
Here’s the kicker-
Instead of a concrete stem wall there are two non PT 2X’s on edge. Imagine a 34′ header buried in the ground with a wall setting on it and the garage slab poured against it. I have no idea what is under the 2x’s or what sort of brick ledge is in place. In another wall of the garage, the bricks are leaning away from the wall.
The wood has to come out of the ground and whatever mickey mouse foundation there is has to be dealt with. But how would you do it?
I meet with the HO in a couple of hours and I am going to tell him this is deeper water than a one man handyman operation can tread in.
I’m just curious how this can be fixed.
I'm just curious how this can be fixed
That's the sort of curiosity that can land the cat in feline ICU . . .
So far, you have a concrete slab butted to what was passing for a bottom plate. With semi-buried brick on the other side. There's two moisture-trapping conditions, either by themselves excellent insect habitats. Then, you have another brick veneer 'tipping away" from the wall.
Like as not, your 'simple' project will wind up exposing bottoms of the entire run of brick veneer. Could find that there's nothing there, and never was.
I hope not, the HO is going to have enough hassles as is.
"That's the sort of curiosity that can land the cat in feline ICU . . ."Definatley one of my problems :) Wish I had nine lives.
If there's a concrete foundation under the PT 2x in the dirt then the job is to cap the foundation to at least 6" above grade and tie the framing in to a new mudsill. The bigger problem might be water leaks at the windows and/or behind the brick. Easy to imagine that all that brick might need to come off and be reinstalled over proper waterproofing and drainage.
If there's no concrete then the job is to remove the brick, shore up with framing, excavate and pour a foundation, and tie back in.
Met with the Homeowner. He knows the original builder and had him come over. This is a 25 yr old home where the walls were prefabed in a factory and the house package was trucked in.The company spec'ed concrete block foundation stopping about 4" under top of the garage slab. Then double 2x8's on edge on the inside 31/2" of the block. 2x4 wall on top. The outside rest of the block forms the brick ledge.The 2x8's aren't obviously PT. They aren't green. I asked the builder about the treatment. "They must be treated. The termites aren't eating the 2x8's"Maybe Pt fades after 25 yrs or there was a different treating method?Strange stuff.In any case, the HO is satisfied. Monday I replace the damaged framing and replace the leaking windows.Thanks for the replies.
"The 2x8s aren't obviously PT They aren't green......"
Craig, not all PT lumber is green.
The majority of PT lumber East of the Missisippi is treated Southern Yellow Pine and it is usually greenish after treatment...but some lumber is also a medium brown color; depending on the chemicals used....... and also, PT lumber West of the Missisippi is incised ( cut) hundreds of times per board so to allow the PT chemicals better penetration because their lumber source( it's not SYP...I forget what specie they use for this purpose)... does not accept the chemicals as easily as SYP. These boards are usually light brown in color after treatment, but are easiliy identifiable by the incise marks.
Thanks. Eases my mind a bit.Theres no score marks, but there is a little brownish cast to the wood. In any case, the homeowner is happy.