I have a 35X90 steel bldg that Iwant to build an insulated room inside of. The bldg has the usual vinyl backed FG insulation built into it. The interior room has its walls about 2 inches inside the vinyl. What I want to do is insulate the interior room w/ wet cellulose so I can heat/cool the room reasonably efficiently & cheaply.
Question – how on earth do I get in behind the 2X4 walls of the interior room to put up some sort of barrier to keep the wet cellulose in the wall cavity? The wallboard is not yet up – I’m crazy, not dumb. What kind of barrier will it take? Can this even be done? Been wracking my brain for months, now w/o any rational solutions popping into said mind.
Don Reinhard
The Glass Masterworks
“If it scratches, I etch it!”
Replies
Why not build that wall on the floor and put sheathing or drywall on the wall before you tip it up.
Too late smart & too soon old! Walls are already up - have been for several years. This is truly a work in progress..Thanks.
DonDon Reinhard
The Glass Masterworks
"If it scratches, I etch it!"
Not sure I understand the layout you describe but, if it's what I think it is, I'd seal the edges of where the interior room comes close to the wall of the exterior shell. Then just blow in celulose in the space between the walls and the stud cavities. If your DW is not up yet on the inside, you can scrim over the studs on the interior and blow through it. Makes a neat, tight job.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Slip drypack netting behind wall. Wire to studs. Staple wire to stud sides
SamT
Anyone who doesn't take truth seriously in small matters cannot be trusted in large ones either. [Einstein] Tks, BossHogg.
Sam: I like your answer, but I don't know what you are talking about. Start by explaining drypack, that may help me out. Then - how do I wire it to the studs & why do I have to staple the wires to the studs. It all sounds rational, but leaves me scratching my head.DonDon Reinhard
The Glass Masterworks
"If it scratches, I etch it!"
Wet pack Cells will "set" in place once it drys out. Cellulose that is blown in dry needs a net to keep it from falling out of the stud bays.
Ya staples the wire to the stud sides so it doesn't interfere with the DW or paneling you're going to put on the stud faces.
Staple is probably the wrong terminology. I would spike some 8d nails to the stud sides and wrap the wire around them. One top, one bottom and two splitting the middle on each face and one in each bay center top and bottom.
Once you get the netting between the old and new walls, how are you going to fasten it to the studs? Can't get in that 2" gap.
From the inside of the new room, slide a wire right next to a stud, through the netting, and around to the other face of the stud. Pull it thru, wrap around the nail. Then pull the other end tight and wrap it. Cut and move to the next position.
The "Dry Cell' net" will keep the stuff from blowin' out the back.
If you want a hard surface next to the old wall, carefully layout some DW or ply and fasten some 3/4 x 1" nailers to the stud side so that you can screw thru the nailers into the studs.
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1/2" ply/DW + 1" nailer still leaves a wee bit of room to slide them puppies into place. If you use ply, then after a panel is sorta in place, you can screw a couple of cheap handles to it to make it easier to wrangle into final position. With ply, you could even pre attach the nailing strips to the studs, then use the temp handles to hold the ply in place till you got some screws inter her. . .it.
SamT
Anyone who doesn't take truth seriously in small matters cannot be trusted in large ones either. [Einstein] Tks, BossHogg.