Hello,
I need to remove the door jambs on an exterior, in-swing, prehung Thermatru door so that I can remove the sill to place caulk underneath it and then screw it down.
I am having a lot of trouble prying off the door jambs. I can only get the super bar in between the jamb and the frame about an inch. Then trying to pry it out makes it want to split.
Anyone know how these things are constructed or how to get them off?
Thanks, Eric
Replies
Can you just pry up the sill and then calk under ? there really not ment to be removed after installed. The calking should have been done before installing. You might be able to install sill seal (thin insulation) under threshold before you calk with a small flat prybar.
the sill is bowed about 1/8" in the middle, but not on the ends, so I can really get any caulk in there. I'm finding out now, 4 years after construction, that it is bowing quite badly in the winter because it wasn't caulked initially.
Eric
The Thermatru doors that I've installed have the sill attached to the jambs. The jamb legs won't pry free because they're captured by the header at the top and the sill at the bottom.
You'll need to remove the fasteners that attach the jamb to the framing and then slide the unit out. I usually use screws under the door stop molding. You'll need to figure out if yours is nailed or screwed. If screwed, it's easy. If nailed, sometimes you can get the nail head to pop a little by prying the jamb just a little and then hammering the jamb back (and hoping the nail stays high). If that doesn't work, you may need a cats claw, but be prepared to do a bit of repair.
-Don
maybe I have my terminology wrong. I need to remove the door "stops", which sit on top of the aluminum sill. After removing the stops I think I can cut the fasteners that attatch the sill to the sides with a saw and lift the sill out.
So anyone know if it possible to remove the stops?
Eric
The door stops are part of the jamb. 99% of the time on exterior doors the stop is machined into the jamb material. This way there is less chance for air to get in.
I would pull the trim off the interior, and exterior. Then, take a recipricating saw with a metal cutting blade. Run it between the jamb and the jack stud. After cutting both sides push the sill out first, and use the jamb legs for leverage to get the head piece free.
I just inspected the door very closely and it appears that the stops are indeed machined into the jambs. I think I actually have to use the reciprocating saw blade in between the sill and the jambs, but can't do it because the stops are in the way. Any more tips?
I'm not familiar with the Thermatru brand, but the entry doors I've worked with usually have screws thru the threshold.
When I need to remove an exterior door (without destroying the jambs), I remove the inside and outside casing, remove the threshold screws, and run a sawzall around the jambs. Since the thresholds are usually caulked, it takes a little careful prying under the threshold to pop the unit off the caulk so it will come out.
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Eric, go to a building supply store where they sell doors similar to yours, talk to a salesperson and have a look at the way they are constructed. Damage to your existing entry could occur if you attempt to remove the frame without this information.
Eric, you have the bowed threshold spoken of b/4?
The best way is to remove the unit, take off the old sill if wooden backer under the aluminum and replace with another Thermatru sill for that size jamb (this one should be with composite backer). Most of them are stapled to (thru) the jamb.
You can cut out the threshold, but this isn't the best way.
If you've boogered up the jamb enough already, put the door back on and buy a new jamb from the same supplier and assembler. The jigging of the hinges should be the same (if you're lucky).
Where's that builder that was "trying" to figure it out for you?
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Calvin, your mostly right about replacing the jamb, but, DO NOT ASSUME THE HINGE SPACING IS THE SAME! I dont mean to yell at you, but even inside the same shop, the jig setup can vary from machine to machine, and from day to day. If you take them the jamb, then they can set the jig based on that, or take the measurments to tell the door shop to set up the jig the right way. I have found this out the wrong way before, and its a pain in the butt.
OK jr.
Here's what we'll do. Order up the jamb assmbld, no cuts. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
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That works for me, just trying to save someone else the butt chewing that I got for making that mistake, not once but twice.
We also have a bit of a problem trying to describe what a good remodeler would do in the situation, or his builder for that matter. Eric already has tried to remove the milled in stop so we can assume he's in need of some trained assistance. Too damn bad he doesn't live down the street. Experience and intuitiveness sure goes a long way in these situations.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
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Yeah, that would be too easy though.
I'd remove the entire door before I'd mess around with trying to take out only the sill.
I'm reasonably sure that I could have the entire door out in 15 minutes. Some of the tougher ones might take an extra 15 minutes but I doubt that I've ever taken more than 30 minutes to knock one out of the hole.
blue
Well, here's what I did. I ended up taking out the whole prehung door unit. It was pretty easy, especially since it's my first time. It was difficult to pry off the exterior casing since I have vinyl siding. It was also difficult getting it back into position. I should have marked the floor first! I caulked well underneath.
The hard part was drilling holes in the concrete in order to screw down the sill. The crappy bit from the hw store lasted 5 minutes. I used 2 bits for 2 holes at $5 each. I screwed the sill down with blue concrete screws and it cinched down really well and got rid of the upward bow.
Unfortunately I had to remove the concrete screws in order to adjust the door frame to make it close correctly. So now I have to go back and get more bits and screws tomorrow.
I'm kind of glad that I did this because I found a hole at the bottom of both vertical exterior casing pieces that was letting all kinds of bugs and moisture into the space between the jamb and the stud. I plan to seal that up and fill in all of the gaps with low volume expanding foam made for windows and doors.
Yes, my builder should have taken care of this, but it would have taken weeks or months. I'm glad that I was able to take care of it and learn something in the process. Thanks to all of you for your help!
Eric
Good job Eric. A sense of accomplishment I'm sure.
What kind of bit and how are you drilling it? They (tapcon bit) last longer than one hole. Something's not kosher.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
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I am using a 5/32" Rawl Tapper bit from the hardware store. I believe the screws are actually Tapcon, though, 3/16". I am drilling straight into the concrete on high speed with 18.8V drill, cooling the bit in water every 5 seconds or so.
They said they used to have Tapcon bits and will give me a refund, but I'd rather just have a good bit in the first place, even if it costs a little more. I'd would have had the job done, but now it'll be a big hassle now for me to get the new bit and finish the job during my work week. Plus it snowed today in Vermont, but I just have insulation in the cracks, no casing until I'm sure the sill is done.
Thanks, Eric
Don't know the rawl bits. If you had a hammer drill, you'd be in like flynn. I think the high speed isn't a help. Try moistening the concrete.
Was the underside of that thresh composite or wood? You're in a wet location there no? Use a good urethane caulk on the front side of that threshold to keep the water from getting underneath. Run a strip of masking tape along the front of the alum and out along the concete a ways from the thresh. Tool the bead nice and crisp to the edge of the tape, peel it away (thresh first) and you'll have a beautiful thing.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
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Those bits don't last long with a regular drill, but should get maybe a dozen holes.DAMHIKT
Bill, that tagline...........some kind of conservative republican code?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
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DAMHIKTThat is not a tagline. It is an explective.Don't Ask Me How I Know That.
Thanks bill, sometimes simpler is better.
sometimes.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
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I don't like the Tapcon bits. I get maybe a dozen good holes. They will keep on making holes but the size seems to get smaller so that the screw seizes too soon and snaps off.I get much better use out of Bosch masonry bits for my hammer drill
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Like you, I use the hilti brand bit with the rotary hammer. Like you say, those tapcon's do wear. But two holes, that's downright petty larceny.
Hey paul, you noticed the amount of ..........information being posted of late? Jeep must have had a layoff.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
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I notice a lot of amature information being traded around. You use finish nails for exterior trim?
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I admit to using "some" galv. 2'' finish gun nails yes, when I deemed them appropriate. Tho I probably haven't been back to all the applications, I can't say I've seen a failure. I think for sure, movement in disimilar or unfinished material would cause them to withdraw. When I do, I always use one of the waterproof titebond or guerilla glues. In most cases of exterior trim I'll use maze siding nails with the smaller heads. No split and good grab.
Amature info not tested in time could be right, but could also be a one time "works" answer. But then 33 yrs and I'm the first to admit I know diddly.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
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Mr Diddly shows up on my jobs sometimes too. With glues, they are doing the hard work and the nails just pinning to hold 'till the glue takes over. When working alone, I've even used the Paslode finish gun to stick up clapboards while holding with one hand'till I get three or four up and then remail with SS siding nails.
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I'm thinking maybe he hit rebar on the way down to ruin those bits - either that or they were cheap dime store bits tobegin with - the kind they sell to DIYs who only need to drill two or three such holes a year
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