What would be the best way to layout for framing, Where would you start?
Lou
As the twig bends- So grows the tree!!
What would be the best way to layout for framing, Where would you start?
Lou
As the twig bends- So grows the tree!!
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Replies
I'd frame it the same as I always did.......but do it in sections.
Lou, the first time I opened it I got a small print-with a label over it saying something about could not run.
Tried in new window-no open after several minutes.
So I guess my answer would be-I'd start by trying to find an easier way to look at it.
Generally I would study the print and dimensions to verify that in fact it could be built as drawn within the actual perimeter. With numerous partition walls you quickly run out of room which might prove critical in the last space.
Otherwise, unless something dictated a change.......I've always started in commercial, front to back and left to right. I lay down a pair of control lines in chalk (square to each other within the overall space) and overcoat those with a spray clear coat. I also do this in basement remodels. Gives you something "right" to go from. All the partitions are built off those control lines, keeping them square / parallel to each other in a possibly unsquare space. It gives me advance notice of anything I'm going to have to figure out how to hide later.
edit: Finally got it to open. What's the wall thickness and in the print is it finish to finish? I'm assuming there's a whole lot of new plumbing. Has all the underslab been roughed in yet? Or will sawing/trenching be done after you locate all the bottom track?
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Edited 11/26/2008 10:18 am ET by calvin
I've used control lines, too. Keeps things from getting away from you.I like the clearcoat idea.What I did for a permanent line was to make a funky ink pot: Two nesting Tupperware containers, with string holes drill through both sides of each one (actually, I think I used a hot 4d nail, to weaken the plastic less.Inner TW holds a slit sponge, soaked with India Ink.Outer one has dry slit sponges, one each side.String passes through first hole in outer Tupperware, through slit in dry sponge, into inner TW, through slit in ink-soaked sponge, then out the other side in the same manner.Lids go on, and you're ready to pull the inkpot along the string much like a mason's chalk block.Took about as long to make as it does to describe it.Worked like a charm, didn't leak, was pretty unbreakable, and I've still got it 13 years later.Aitchkay
Dont forget there is ceiling detail in the lobby(sort of turet thing going on) Has to be detailed in the lobby.
I'm not sure if its finished wall to finished wall dimension. ya think?
Thanks, Lou
I'm gonna start to layout fridayAs the twig bends- So grows the tree!!
It would be my guess.............
that it's finish to finish. Should/usually on prints I've worked with, have at least one wall listed. If not, you have to go to the material you are using. Metal studs-3-5/8 w/5/8 board each side.
I'm sorry, with all the detail and small screen I saw no turret. I should have looked harder.
Is the plumbing in or will it be cut in later?A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Cal, The sewer drain runs right down the middle, We have to cut laterals in. How wide does the trench have to be before you have to pin the floor?
The turet is the hashed cross lines in the lobby
Thanks for the help bro, Lou C
check out p1 r2
As the twig bends- So grows the tree!!
Edited 11/27/2008 8:22 am ET by loucarabasi
Lou, I see basement on the drawings? You'd just have core drillings for the drains/supplies, depending on it's construction.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Cal, There is a slab on the left side. Thats the side were working on
LouAs the twig bends- So grows the tree!!
The few times we fitted a space like you show, we laid all the track down, the plumbers marked out the trenches-concrete sawing company came in and cut the trenches (cross cut every couple ft also). Laborers removed the slabs-plumbers roughed in. In some cases they just poured back in the trench-others they pinned to the sides of the existing slab/then poured. I don't know that it might not be a spec to comply with.
Where the trenches crossed wall plates, they cut out the track to one side, bent up the track until the rough/fill and pour. Then we laid back down the track. Where stubs came up, we would remove that pc of track at that location.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
How wide does the trench have to be before you have to pin the floor
For me, usually as wide as the trench needs to be for the pipe going in <sigh>.
And, bar is needed far too often, especially with the 11, 11.5" slump 200# mix that gets filled back in the hole like it's all magic <longer sigh> (There's usually griping, especially if they have cut through #4 @ 12" OCEW--which can't have been important to the slab, could it?)
It can be handy to use a different color chalk line for the full-height (to roof deck) walls vice the partition walls.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Wouldn't it make sense to stage materials and tools at the large room end and build the rooms from the other end first.
That's a pretty cut up space, none of the walls are very long. Only one window mullion has a wall aligned with it, so that helps. I would probably start with the entry hall, and then see if there are any items with critical dimensions, like for equipment.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Right -- check for critical dimensions first. So bathrooms, for instance, with their ADA requirements, should take priority over adjacent rooms.Aitchkay
Agree - ADA and clearances for medical equipment need to be high on the list."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Personally, I would lay this out to include HVAC and Plumbing plans. Then I would know if I was going to need to support a 3000 lb gas/electric rooftop unit or a 1200 pound condensing unit.
Frame the outside walls first, then the interiors.
I guess by the responses that I don't understand what you really want. Could you be more explicit in what you desire?
Was the waste plumbing already roughed in? If so I would try to accomodate that.
I'd make sure that those walls aligned with the existing(?) skylight above.
The way you asked implies maybe a problem came up.
I'd probably start with the wall to the left of the entry doors, since it is also a plumbing wall.
Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
Are you asking about interior framing or the entire structure?
By the first page, I assumed its a tennent improvement.
But we know what happens when one assumes. Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
Yeah, probably.
A couple of control lines might be useful if the perimeter is way out of wack. Otherwise pick refrence wall and go.
I usually lay out the longest wall first. Here there isn't really one.
So I'd go for the ones across the shorter, 32' dimension first. Make sure they're hitting any important marks like mullions or plumbing (as someone else said).
Then fill in the wall layout down the length.
Double check, then start shooting down track...buic
START AT ONE END
"So bathrooms, for instance, with their ADA requirements,"
NOT ADA - New Jersey Barrier-Free Code (governs).
Jeff
From left to right on the drawing.
Start with the walls on each side of the transcription room, then the end walls of those rooms.
Work your way down the office using each long wall and cross wall as references to keep things sq. as you.
Any slight differences can be taken out of the PT/Rehab room.
Build out the with same sequence after layout.
I'd start by laying out the bathrooms around their in-slab plumbing. That's because the interior dimensions tend to be critical. From those, check to see that the resultant hall way "works." Better to find out now if an adjustment is needed than later. Using those hallways as "spines," the rest of the layout can spring off those to the edges of the new slab.
I might bring out the senior hand from the electrical contractor, and see if he wants to have some permanent layout lines set for his crew when they com in later. He may pass, he may not--still costs nothing to ask now, and could help in the end.
That's all I got for your 2 cents
I think you have a pretty easy layout job ahead of you. If you have no MEP stubs or risers sticking out of the ceiling of the slab (slab is likely to be more difficult to move) than you should have an easy go of it.
I think the interior wall dimension is 5", which is common for commercial drawings, even though 4-7/8" is more accurate. I determined that by adding up the "top" dimension string and subtracting that from the 88'6" dimension. Unfortunately, either my math is wrong or the architect's dimensions aren't right on the "lower" dimension string (the wall with the entrance door). I get a 5" discrepancy from the top dimension string.
From the details you have given us, I think you need to be concerned about the following.
Room 100, door centered between walls
Room 109/110, partition wall at window mullion
Room 101 & 124a, ceiling details seem to be flexible unless existing conditions dictate that you need to locate the bulkheads to fit something that's already there
Always try to keep in mind the ADA requirements of bathrooms or the spatial requirements of millwork and other fixtures. If the millwork guy is just going to fabricate everything from Plam, you don't have to be too picky. The 5' radius circle in the bathrooms is not negotiable at all.Good luck.*Edit-On second look, Room 100 doesn't look like the door is centered.
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Edited 11/27/2008 11:44 pm ET by JonBlakemore
Thanks John for all the info! Were gonna start monday. That will help
Lou CAs the twig bends- So grows the tree!!