Howto cut angle aluminum w/ a circ. saw
Someone suggested to me the other day that I use my metal blade in my circular saw to cut angled aluminum(6in. porter cable saw) at work. Talking 1/8 to 1/4in. thick stuff, up to 3in. x 3in. pieces. How would I do this? Only way I can think of is hanging it over a sacrifical sheet of scrap wood, using a real shallow depth setting and doing 1 side at a time.
-Ray
Replies
Ray
Dont know if you have to cut a lot of the stuff but you can cut alum. with any carbide saw blade. Ive cut alum. shower pieces with my chop saw, did it regularly when instaling shower doors in track homes.
Doug
I cut the stuff with my chopsaw all the time, I don't bring the chop saw around with me everyday so it'd be nice if I had the option of using the circular saw. For making up to 20 cuts of the stuff it'd be great to be able to use the cordless circular saw. I was just curious if there were any tips anyone had, only method I can think of is going to require a piece of scrap which might require a few extra clamps if the piece isn't long enough to span the sawhorses.
-Ray
Ray, what's your "metal blade"?
Aluminum cuts nicely with a wood blade if it's carbide. I've cut it for years with a 24 tooth blade in a 10" table saw, from window screen frame to 1/2" and thicker plate.
Plain old Freud blade mostly, but not a "metal blade".
Joe H
Ray,
Best blade to use is a triple chip, but almost a carbide will work with somewhat lesser results.
Jon
To add to tour post, a triple chip with a negative hook has been suggested to me. Try looking for F.S. tool/saw company they should have a online catalogue.
We usually cut aluminum with DW 12" mitre saws using double kerf non ferris metal cutting blades. If we don't happen to have one of these blades we use a REAL sharp wood cutting blade with a thin kerf.
If we have a real big piece of aluminum or have to cut a piece in place we'll use a 7-1/4" circular saw with same type of double kerf nonferris metal cutting blade, or if don't have right blade, again we'll use a REAL sharp thin kerf wood cutting blade.
When you make your cut USE YOUR SAFETY GLASSES!! Sometimes little flecks of aluminum get tossed up at your face expecially when you're bending over and looking real close to get a nice and smooth cut. Make the cut SLOW! The only tricky part of the cut is the end. When you get close to finishing the cut be carefull the blade doesn't grab the stock. Go SUPER slow at the last about 1/8" of the cut. Try to use a clamp. It's a real bi**h to hear a REAL loud TAAANNNNGGG and realise the piece you were holding in your hand has been tossed about 20' feet and your hand feels like a cherry bomb just went off in it. The more secure your stock, and the right blade, and going real slow when finishing the cut, are the techniques that will keep you out of trouble.
If you can give yourself a few practice cuts first all the better. You'll find the blade wants to "wander" a little more than when you are cutting wood.
If you use these techniques and make a few practice cuts you'll realise cutting aluminum is a "piece of cake".
Good Luck-- Get After It-- AND DON'T FORGET THOSE SAFETY GLASSES-- EVEN A LITTLE TEEEEENNNY TINY LITTLE SPECK OF ALUMINIM IN THE EYE HURTS BAAAAD AND TAKES A DOCTOR TO GET IT OUT!!! (Done that-been there).
Cork in Chicago
hey.. i can replay it just from your description...brings back many fond memories
clamps are good.. safety glasses are good... and hearing protection is good..
let's be careful out thereMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Any decently sharp blade can handle AL. Don't bother wasting timne with shallow passes, that's for masonry. AL is much softer than the steel or the carbide in blades.
The only way it can sometimes appear to damage the blade is if you are going too slow or cutting too much. Hot AL can half #### weld itself to the face of the cutting teeth so that it seems dull lik ewhen pitch builds up an teeth faces. From that viewpoint, larger teeth are better.
Excellence is its own reward!
TCMK - C4 blade. At least a 40 tooth. 24's some time hook or catch and you'll soon find out that once is too often.
Top cote blade and lube while cutting. I like Tri- flow. WD-40 is too flamable.
If the aluminium chatters you will be in the way no matter where you are standing.
2nd choice in a blade is a AB - C5. C3 blades or less have a tendicy to break and then you have a very dangerous projectile on the loose to contend with.
I believe Systematic makes a "Budke" with a tooth configuration especially for cutting Al .
A negative hook is the key.
A triple chip also would reduce "grabbing".
Go to a shop that cut Al on a regular basis and see what they are using.
Someone who makes aluminum truck caps would be a good start.Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am an Experienced Professional!
Seems as though 20 cuts of 1/4" would be a little much for a cordless. Most of the postings were in regards to corded tools.
Went back and looked at my Alu cutters. They are 0* rake. 1 AB and 1 TC. The TC I use fot thinner (1/4-less) and the AB on thicker.
A company called Metal Devil makes blades for cutting aluminum & steel. I have seen both in action personally & they are truly unbelievable. I think the site is http://www.metaldevil.com.
If you cut more than even the occasional bit of non-ferrous I think they would be a good investment.
David
Thanks David. Nice informative package.
I got my non-ferrous cutters from American Carbide in Oldsmar, FL. [Robert Saw Co.] The thickest I takle is 5/8 plate down to paper thin sheet. So far the the results have been admirable.
Some times when would I cut VTA trim I thought that the positive hook that I was originally using would "snag" creating a disaster. Going to 0* rake radically improved my cuts. Adding stiffners worked well. Dry lube was a good choice too. Vibration and chatter control is mandatory.
Think safty doing this. Schrapnel can be most unkind.
David,
GREAT post.
I've tried Oldham circular saw ferrous metal cutting blade about 4 years ago when building curtain wall on Bankston Ford dealership in Frisco TX. Had to cut and notch 16 ga. C studs while on a telescoping lift. Everyone and I do mean EVERYONE hated the hell out of that blade. It blew wicked shrapnel everywhere, and after using it you and everyone around would be bleeding.
Watched the videos and this blade looked like it would work real good. Have you personally tried one of these out and how bad was the shrapnel? Also how much do they cost and how long did it last?
Posts like this is what make BT a great source for technical knowledge from those in the trades who have done that ,been there and can save you a lot of grief and money by passing on the knowledge earned through the college of hard knocks.
Great Info-- Thanks,
Cork in Chicago
Shrapnel wasn't too bad. Personally I am afeared of all things flying 'bout my face so even a minor amount is enough for me to don the eye gear.
Price.... I cannot remember exactly but it was not too bad considering the performance, Less than $80 maybe?
David
Oh BTW, I also lurk in some Usenet groups. This product was also raved about by folks on rec.metalworking & sci.engr.joining.welding. Some good tips can be had on Usenet groups by some also decent folks.
David