I have an old HWH in a 2-sty w/bsmt that does not vent well esp with the A/C running. I am also remodeling and want to remove the flue/chase. I’m looking into switching to a nat gas with power vent or an electric unit. You guys got any good recommendations?
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First you want to get the AC duct work checked and see how that is causing drafting problems.
Maybe returns in the wrong places or an open duct.
And what kind of source for heating do you have?
Other options for a gas WH is a direct vent. However, they are very limited to where they can go. You need a reasonably near by way to bent out the side of the house. But it also brings in outside combustion air so that it is independent of any pressure differences.
There might also be power vent direct vent, but I am not sure.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill, I have nat gas now. When the fan is on, the bsmt door slams shut, so it's under neg pressure, which seems strange since there are bsmt supply vents, but no returns.
Assuming the furnace is in the basement, check the bottom panel of the blower compartment - I've seen 'em where the bottom panel had been removed, allowing the blower to pull air through the bottom opening and depressurize the area.There has to be some sort of gap/opening in the return for the depressurization to occur.NOTE: this could create a significant carbon monoxide risk.Check the filter, also - if that's plugged, the depressurization is greater.Check the National Comfort Institute's site for HVAC contractors near you trained in air/pressure balancing - many/most have limited knowledge in that areaA "power" vent nat gas water heater might not be strong enough to overcome such significant depressurization. Consider a direct vent water heater (where combustion air is pulled from outside and there is no exchange between the combustion gases and the house air.Of course, assuming the unit is also a furnace, you need to cure the depressurization problem to keep the furnace from back drafting.
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You guys make some interesting points about depressurization. I'v had a couple house where the door at the top of the bsmt steps would slam shutonce the furnace came on. It also bothers me to have appliances consume inside air. I am planning on upgrading the furnace to a "white pipe" and I'll have to check what's available in electric or side wall vented gas HWH's.
Yeah, whatever the cause you want to get this fixed -- it's a major hazard.
Be aware that the power vent situation for water heaters is kinda complicated -- just because it's a power vent doesn't mean it can be flueless and doesn't mean it won't require combustion air -- there are three or four different categories.
If you go to electric, just get one that's well-insulated -- State, Rheem, et al, all their better quality units are about equal. The Marathon brand units are probably the best, but they take up more room and are considerably more expensive.
Someone will likely suggest tankless. MIGHT be a good choice if gas, not really if electric.