i’m hanging some I-joists between two ledger boards, it’s my first time using them. the hangers only have a couple of nail holes. are these things going to support a bathroom? how does one install blocking between i-joists.. do you use i-joists for blocking or solid dimensional lumber?.. the engineer told me to attach the lsl rim board to the framing with screws and then to hang the i-joists off it.. but the whole set up seems sort of flimsy to me… the rim board could shear off the wall or the hangers could pull out… any opinions or i-joist tips?
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Google TJI or Truss joist.
They have a install manual with all different details with pretty clear pictures.
Yea they seem flimsy but you'll be suprised at their performance after they all get tied in.
Good luck: Steve
NAIL IT !!!
If you get yourself one of the I-Joist manuals available at the lumber yard the answers to most of your questions, if not all, are right there, assuming that you understand the basic concepts of span, deflection criteria, blocking, bridging, squash blocks etc.
You can use pieces of I-joist for what you are calling blocking (I assume that you mean mid-span bridging?) but, you do not want to nail horizontally into the I-joist top or bottom flanges - you want to nail to the web, generally. Too much risk in splitting, particularly the bottom (tension) flange.
Here - http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/IUS-IUT-MIU.html#gallery is an example of an I-joist hanger which conspicuously avoids, wherever possible, nails into the bottom flange, and another which carefully controls the angle of the fastener.
Jeff
Edited 10/11/2007 10:07 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
i have one of those manuals.. it doesn't tell me everything i need to know. or what i want to know maybe.. you can assume i understand basic concepts, etc.. i have issue with my 1 1/4" lsl ledger board and the hangers that are attached to it. and blocking seems like it will be an annoyingly tedious task, with having to cut web stiffeners and what not. mostly i am concerned that there is a potential for the floor to shear off the walls. i'm used to relying on more than 12 nails to hold up a 16' joist and all that it supports.
I didn't say it would tell you everything you needed to know -
You should be concerned if the application you are intending to build is not specifically shown in the manual - ie you should call I-Level technical and describe what you want to do. They are extremely accomodating.
They will clarify the purpose of rim board and it's proper application for you if you aren't sure (generally for conventional, on-plate, fully-supported application).
Also note that the manual does not require mid-span bracing (bridging). However, there's nothing wrong with it if applied properly and many people do it anyway, particularly on longer spans.
Jeff
There is no need for blocking - run strapping on the bottoms of these at 16" oc. bUt the manuals do say how to do blocking. Yes, it can be tedious.The hangers are top bearing, right?I can't believe the engineer just said screw theledger to the wall without saying specifically what screws to use and at what rate. If he did not, he isn't doing the job he is getting paid for.
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he specified four 2" screws per stud... i've used five 3" per stud so far.
As others mentioned, call Trus Joist directly and speak to one of their engineers. They will help you understand what needs to be done in your particular application. Without seeing your construction drawings it is impossible to know what those requirements are (or maybe you could attach a sketch of the area). You say you are spaning between 2 ledgers? What is below this floor deck supported by the 2 ledgers?
John
Did he specify the size and TYPE of screws?
The more you complain, the longer God makes you live.
Could we go with Piffin screws in this application? They're not cabinets....
OK, I'm the biggest screw fan on this board... BUT...
If you are using a 3" screw, you are probably using a #8 screw. This is way too thin for what you are using it for. #9 or #10 is the minimum size needed for construction. If you want to continue with the screws, I'd suggest looking at the 3.5" Deck Mate Square Driv which is only sold at Home Depot. I've actually sheared nail heads while these screws didn't even sweat.
I've really got to work on my metaphores.
In this case there is a specific fasterner engineered and marketed for this purpose. They are hardened lag bolts that come in a variety of lengths and sizes - Truss Lok and Timber Lok by Fastenmaster are what you need to look for.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Two inch by what!???That is insane! He should be specing a type of screw and size, not just length.
A spec like that would allow sheet rock screws and the whole thing would be failing before you left the job.I would be using three inch x # 10 or #12 depending on type of screw. I probably would no go more than four to each stud simply because too many can make the stud poor.
But hat is just me.I'm still shaking my head over this kind of a spec....
Two inch screws run through timberstrand means only 3/4" in the stud....Tell him why bother, just use eight penny finish nails, LOL
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I'm with Piffin... The word screws ran up a red flag - unless they are those Simpson/Strongtie SDS (or similar) screws... Or are they bolts w/ nuts & washers? Normally rim board would be continuously supported by a load bearing wall of some kind, and any fasteners would be more just to hold it in position rather than actually support it... What exactly is the rim board getting attached to?
Also what is the length of the span that you feel like you need blocking? For that matter, what are the dimensions of the I-joists (length, width, & height)? From my experience blocking in I-joist floor systems is not very common unless there is a load bearing wall above and below the blocks. Even then it would often be squash blocks - not actual bridging blocks.
I'm not a fan of hanging anything on ledger boards. Hopefully the engineer has reviewed the loading and has given you a nailing schedule. If he hasn't, I wouldn't do it.
If the I-joist hangers are top flange hangers, they don't need a lot of nails. They should be O.K. if they're installed according to the manufacturer's specs.
Many folks here suggest putting a dab of construction adhesive in the seat of the hanger before putting the I-joist in. That helps prevent squeaks.
yes, i pretty much always squirt a dab of glue into the hangers... i think you're right about the ledger board... i think i can improve on it by using lvl and setting it into the studs about an 1.5". i don't very much like working with the i-joists and, in place, they seem to vibrate quite a bit. i hope the subfloor and strapping dampen that substantially.