I know the praises of the MultiMaster have been sung here before, But I’m gonna do it again anyway.
today I needed to cut some holes for outlets into some old plaster walls. Got out the Fein, installed the carbide grout blade, and zipped right thru the plaster. Changed to an E-blade, and the lath was history. I think it took me less than 3 minutes per hole, total.
anyone who works on old houses really should have one of these.
Replies
yessir, never enough praise for that tool. I've moved it to a more accessible place in the van. Any better and it'll be next to the screwgun and hand tool bags.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Yep, mine died last week, I almost went with it. Right in the middle of the job, too. When I hang doors , and the finished floor hasn't been laid, I get 'em to where they're right, then go back and cut all the jambs and casing with the Fein. Dang, this is trouble.Called the local tool guys where I bought it, and who have a bazillion of my dollars...3 weeks for a switch!!! These guys also do a huge repair biz, hmmmm.Went online (gotta love Al Gore<G>)...two days later I had a switch, and all the jambs cut off, yeehaa!Rytech, Joe is great. If I see some downtime, I'm sending the Fein to him for a bearing checkout and maybe a spanking for breaking down...LOLThat sucker rides right behind me, with a seat belt...paid for itself many times over What in the gosh darn golly have you done to Rez?
Ok, I have just upgraded my Christmas list.First... I want my cat C.P. back. (Shorthair grey and black tabby. Anyone seen her ?)Then... I want a fein multi-master.;o)
America is a country which produces citizens who will cross the ocean to fight for democracy but won't cross the street to vote.
the multimaster has more uses than a cat
:)
How well does it do at warming your lap ?
America is a country which produces citizens who will cross the ocean to fight for democracy but won't cross the street to vote.
OK, that's one thing the MultiMaster CAN'T do.
Well, I suppose it could. But I don't think I'd want it to.
America is a country which produces citizens who will cross the ocean to fight for democracy but won't cross the street to vote.
Well....it probably doesn't do well, but I bet some women might like it better than a Harley.......
that was bad...sorry!Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
Does that mean that I'll be tinkering a golfball sized attachment for the multi-master, next ?;o)Kinda gives a couple new meanings to "master", doesn't it ?Come to think of it, it gives a new meaning to "multi" as well...
America is a country which produces citizens who will cross the ocean to fight for democracy but won't cross the street to vote.
Yup...and a whole new marketing direction for the Fein company!
They could make pink ones....(or purple!) with different attachments!
OR...a dual use version, for the carpenter who wants the best tool with the most versatility, and his lusty partner who wants the tool with the most versatility!
(Might have to have the "special attachments" in a seperate case so he doen't get too much flak on the jobsite, LOL) Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
I knew I had seen that pictorial before, you go big Luka. I read the posts and could remember cutting of the saw blade but couldn't remember the fine details.......
Semper Fi
Don't you mean the fein details ??;o)
Just call me doodyhead.
But the cat has more IMPORTANT uses than the MultiMaster. Like keeping my head warm. Or replacing the alarm clock. And they add texture to all furniture!"Nothing says 'I love you' like a dead rodent delivered to your pillow at 2 a.m."
I hope you find C.P. safe and well very soon
JohnIf my baby don't love me no more, I know her sister will.
Funny this thread should come up. I'll put one on my Xmas list too.
Could have used one last week in a bathroom reno. Hearing here that the multi-master will trim doorjambs, etc. makes me want one all the more.http://www.costofwar.com/
Used mine yesterday to cut off some exterior trim on a Victorian porch I'm rebuilding. Used a wide blade with long teeth. When finished, a nail remained in the trim and the blade had maybe 4 teeth left. Went and picked up a new blade last night. Fifty bucks. I love the tool, but hate the price of the accessories. Any one know of an aftermarket supplier? Even at 2/3's the price it would be a bargain.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
You might check ebay or try the advanced search.... if you're into S&M.....
there was a discussion sometime in the recent past in regard to a cheaper place to by blades for it, just can't remember when or where.
eBay - fein multimaster, Tools, Construction, Home Garden items at low prices
Thanks, I'll check it out.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
Nick,Ebay is the place. Try this link: eBay - fein multimaster, Tools, Construction, Home Garden items at low pricesIt doesn't look like a link on the screen. I'll post and see what happens.Bill
Nick,
You'll probably just want to go with the cheaper ones on ebay, but here is a couple alternatives...
1. Sharpen what you have, using a dremel with a very thin cutoff blade.
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This dremel has a stone in it, but you get the idea. I have some super thin cutoff blades that would easily put teeth back on, or sharpen even the finest of teeth on those tiny saws.
2. Make your own...
Start with the blade that you screwed the teeth up on...
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Cut off the blade, from the flange.
(If yours does not have that flange, just cut the blade off in that general area, and thereby create the flange.)
And drill or punch some holes in the flange.
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Now decide on a blade.
* A hobby razor saw blade...
View Image
(Fits an exacto hobby knife handle. The big red handle.)
Hobby
This page has several different options for the blade. 30, 40 and 52 teeth/inch.
* Or a japanese pull saw replacement blade...
japanwoodworker
You can use any blade on this page, or any other, for that matter. Nothing says you can't use a thicker blade...
Cut a section out of the blade, and drill the holes to correspond with the holes in the flange.
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Then simply rivet the two together.
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The beauty of the last step is that you don't really have to drill or punch holes in the blade. If you cut slots instead, it will still work.
That dremel with the very thin cutoff blade will do ALL the cutting, sharpening, or slot cutting. And will do so without removing temper, if yer careful.
Or, skip the holes/slots and either spot weld the blade to the flange, or silver solder it.
I keep thinking that I need to figure out some variation of this that can be attached to a "mouse" sander, or something similar.
You can end up with 3 or more blades from a blade that costs from 3 dollars to 20 dollars, depending on the blade you choose to cut your replacement from.
The first one would be the slowest. After that it shouldn't take you more than ten or 15 minutes to make a replacement blade.
(I should submit this as a "tips and techniques" submission...)
America is a country which produces citizens who will cross the ocean to fight for democracy but won't cross the street to vote.
Thanks for the well thought out and time-consuming reply, you obviously have either done this before, or something similar, and I thank you for sharing. I'll look into it.
Thanks again."I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
You are welcome.=0)
America is a country which produces citizens who will cross the ocean to fight for democracy but won't cross the street to vote.
Yes....Thanks Luka,You have a skillful way of presenting things. You have editorial qualities. Watch out for this guy, Andy E.My question is: what kind of rivets would you use here?Hate to exhibit my ignorance here, but the only kind I am familiar with are pop rivets, (surely not), and two part copper rivets like in knife hafts.Alan
This website contains a variety of different kinds of rivets.I like the ones that you hit with a hammer to set.If you want to use the pop type, they have the industrial "cherry" rivets, (listed on the page I chose to link to.)http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/rivetpricetable.phpI like the hammer kind because you end up with one solid piece of metal through the hole. But they are difficult to work with, because it is so easy to end up with a mushroom on both sides of the workpiece, because you didn't hold everything down to the anvil hard enough while hitting it.Either way, make sure that you end up with the "head" of the rivet on the bottom of the blade, and the mushroom side on the upper side of the blade.
America is a country which produces citizens who will cross the ocean to fight for democracy but won't cross the street to vote.
Thanks for the rivet info.I, uh, found it riveting. (I AM sorry, couldn't help myself)Alan
do you have a finished one you could post a picture of?
No I don't.
America is a country which produces citizens who will cross the ocean to fight for democracy but won't cross the street to vote.
That's too bad it looks like a really great method. Would be nice to see a completed one.
Does anyone else have a problem with the velcro backing pads melting when sanding with the corners of the pad, I was told that it was my technique so I bought another and "let the tool do the work" same result. The velcro on the back of the sandpaper also "defurring".
I sort of altered one corner of my pad, but the rest looks like the day it was born. Use the proper grit and technique and it takes things down tenaciously. No need to lean on it for sure. The paper's last for me (backside), I've even had luck cleaning the coarse ones with a belt sander rubber stick.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Our builder's hardware dealer has a customer appreciation day once a year and this year the Fein rep had a table set up demonstrating the Multi Master. I stopped to take a look at what all the fuss was about and was impressed, for sure.
Spendy though. Whooooeeee. Going to have to wait until I NEED one before I buy one of those bad boys.
Hey. It's a small thing, but I noticed a distinct lack of ergonomic design when I used that tool. Is it me? Or does anyone else notice that too?
Hasn't been a problem for me in actual use, although with extended use, you'll have "buzzin" hands afterwards.Waiting till you need it means you'll pass a ton of opportunities where it could and would save you time and money. It is truly a tool that will do what others cannot.One thing that will help is to not think of it as a detail sander. It is one - and a great one at that - but it is really quite a bit more than that.JT
Jim.
As Julian says, you'll miss many opportunities AND it is much more than a detail sander, AND you'll be surprised it you've never owned a detail sander how often you can use it for.........among other things, sanding.
Where it gets expensive is in the blade and various attmnts you will buy.
I've had one for several years and it's a damn front page tool in my van.
You have a small self leveling laser like the pls2 yet? Now you're in deep doo doo, there's another VERY useful tool for us remodelers.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I haven't had any problems holding the MM, but I've got pretty big hands.
And definitely get one- once you have it, you'll find all kinds of uses for it.
I am on #2 fein sander...I broke the first one on day one outta the box..something in the guts went kerflewy when I was using the round saw blade to make a cut out for a heat register in SYP flooring. They were good about it and replaced it.
Since then I have been a bit more carefull, bt one more problem still crops up...the bearing exposed on the "top" slings out grease at the worst time..I try to keep it wiped off, but invaribly it will leak out more.
Mine is from 1990, maybe the new ones don't do that? Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Everything looks like a nail, to a hammer"
yeah, submit the idea. Tinkering solutions seem to come easily to you Luka.
I still haven't had the nerve to grind away at my tablesaw's throat to install the zero clearance insert you tipped me off on months ago. I'll get hurt first, then do the mod I guess. ;)http://www.costofwar.com/
Done.I'm thinking it might not count, since I posted it here first, but we'll see.
America is a country which produces citizens who will cross the ocean to fight for democracy but won't cross the street to vote.
Thanks Luka, that was an excellent reply. It's timely for me because I was just talking to some guys today about doing the exact same thing. The only difference is that I was gonna use some bimetal Sawzall blades instead. I was also toying around with an idea for a clamp with wingnut to retain the blade and make quick changes a possibility.
You're welcome.Good ideas.
"If we'd stop trying to be happy we could have a pretty good time." - Edith Wharton
How does the multimaster work? It looks like from some of the blades that it vibrates, but when I see the circular blade this confuses me. I hardly doubt the e-cut blade rotates. Or does it do both with a switch or button. listening to ya'll speak volumes about this tool wants me to go out and purchase one, especially since Luka found a way to outfit blades inexpensively.
Semper Fi
Oscillating. Think an old electric razor. Back and forth in a side to side direction.
They use these things to cut a cast off because without binding, the round one won't cut you. Pinch it against something and you'll see the blood. E blade can cut you in the box. Be careful of that one.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I just tried your method of making my own Multi-Master blades....
It took me almost 20 minutes to make my first. What a clever idea ! Works GREAT ! !
The biggest problem was finding rivets. Went to Lowes ( "nope, we don't carry rivets cause nobody uses em") and to HD, ( huh ? never seen one of those"). Finally went to my local ACE hardware, they had 50+ different kinds....
My new cost per blade will be about $4.00 vs the $80.00 charged by my local woodworkers store.
"Nails ???? I ain't fraid of no stinkin nails anymore!!! THANKS
My new cost per blade will be about $4.00 vs the $80.00 charged by my local woodworkers store.
What blade is it that costs 80 bucks?
thanks.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
OK, so I exhibited some "irrational exhuberance"(?)
The $80 was for a 3 pack of Eblades and the single wood cutting blade was $57.30.
Not $80 per blade, but it did sting when I had to purchase them while in the middle of a job. Now I can keep 3 or 4 "homemade" blades on hand and the $4 ea won't be as bad.
My Multimaster was delivered today. YIPPPPEEEEEE!!!!!!!!
Can't wait to check it all out.
I'll have to go back and check out that thread to make my own blades. At Fein prices, I almost don't want to get them dirty.Pete Duffy, Handyman
Luka -- you really should shoot this around to the wwing mags. I wouldn't be surprised if Amer Woodworker or Wood paid you for a short article (like a 2 page spread).2 questions: 1) what's the best way to remove the used up Fein blade from the flange? and 2) would a cobalt bit work to cut holes in the blade material?This really is a great idea; there are many of us who are tired of paying the high price for Fein blades. Even the eBay guy charges about $20 per.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
To remove the old blade, cut it off with the dremel cutoff wheel.I have no idea whether a cobalt bit will work on a hardened blade or not. I suspect the best way to make a hole in a hardened blade would be with a punch tool. I have drilled holes in hardened blades before, by chucking up a finish nail in a drill press, then spinning that nailhead against the blade in the place I wanted to drill. Do that to heat up the spot. Once that spot has become discolored, I have been able to then drill through with a titanium bit.You could also cut notches in the blade with the cutoff wheel, rather than making holes. The rivets should still hold for as long as you need them to.
Tremble before me puny humans!!!!
but first I need a nap... ~MisterT '06
Thanks for the additional info. I really do encourage you to send this idea around to several mags. At a minimum, you should send it to the Tips/Techniques editor at FWW or FHB, although they probably won't pay you as much as others might for a short article.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
You are welcome.=0)
Tremble before me puny humans!!!!
but first I need a nap... ~MisterT '06
The blades are spot welded to the flange. I just drilled the "top" of each spot weld, then was able to wedge a knife blade between the blade and the flange, tap with a hammer and the blade sprung right off.
Tips:
1- after removing the old blade, the flange will have several high spots on it from the heat of the spot welds. Hold the flange to a flat sander to insure a smooth flat surface to attach the new blade.
2- Drill 3 holes (sized for the rivets) in the flange, then, with the new blade under the flange, drill one hole for a rivet, insert the rivet (but don't flatten) to keep the blade aligned while you drill the next hole, repeat for the 3rd hole then insert all 3 rivets and they will align the flange/blade.
3-Remember to install the blade under the flange, and put the flat (factory) side of the rivet on the bottom, pound on the top.
I used 2 "homemade" blades today to remove brickmold and other trim from around my front door and am very pleased with their performance and PRICE !!!!
Thanks ..... I'm no machinest, so I appreciate your tips.What did you use for blade stock?Have you tried sharpening dull Fein blades, like Luka suggested?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I went to Lowes a bought a $12.00 "backsaw", kinda like what's used for dovetails. Easy to pick one out - just look for one that has teeth similar to the standard blades.
I expect to get 4 blades out of it.
Sharpening? Sounds like a terribly lengthy and tedious process even assuming u had the right files and skills.
I wouldn't even consider that.
<<"Sharpening? Sounds like a terribly lengthy and tedious process even assuming u had the right files and skills.">>Doesn't look that hard or time consuming -- with the technique Luka demonstrated earlier in this thread (with a cut off wheel in a Dremel).You probably couldn't restore the original cut quality of a Fein blade using this technique, but you could most likely get some use out of it.
Especially, if you have hit a nail.Anyway, sounds like its worth a shot............********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Shep: I love my MM also except for the price of blades and accessories. Have you seen the new "SuperCut" MM on steroids? New blade attachment type also with splines, good idea IMHO. No more getting loose and spinning. I've already asked the factory if a upgrade drive shaft would be made, no, but there is adaptor of some type or other.
http://www.feinus.com/p/supercuts/supercut-index-1.htmn.
Afterthought: Has anyone outthere used the MM to cut mortises?
Duke
The Bill of Rights
December 15 1791
NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
Edited 11/24/2005 10:22 pm ET by dukeone
Found these at 7-Corners hardware, blades by the 3-pack. $100 for three still isn't cheap, but you're saving 33% if you buy the three. The blade pictured (large teeth sharpened on three sides) is the blade I use most often, and is typically the most expensive.
http://www.7corners.com/7c_store/showdetl.cfm?DID=1&offerings_ID=588&ObjectGroup_ID=156&CATID=4
Be careful to id the blade before you order, as similar sized blades come in different tooth configurations. Also, be aware that there are new blades on the market that are utilizing the new 'star' mounting configuration, and an adapter might be required to hold them in place.
http://www.feinus.com/p/newmultimaster/new-mounting-sys-adpt.htm
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
It's on my Christmas list.
Headstong, I'll take on anyone!
Shep, I'm ignorant. Never heard of a MultiMaster. What is it? What can you do with it?
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A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Hey Jim remember when you got the kreg jig and heard the angels sing..
well this tool will do the same thing for you bro...light coming down from heaven and the singing angels to :>)
I dunno about a religious experience...but it's right up there with the sawzall: a tool that will make you money, and you'll wonder why you waited so long, and how the hell you got along without it. It a major unfokker upper. Sounds like an ad, I know, but you know how cheap I am, right?
Actually, it's a veeeewwwwwy sensitive sawzall...with about a hundred more uses...no flash in the pan<G> What in the gosh darn golly have you done to Rez?
Well I'm a major fokker upper, so it sounds like a useful tool!
Hey. Saw a flic last night I bet you'd enjoy - "Songcatcher". It's about this gal who goes up into the mountains of Western North Carolina in the early 1900s, and discovers all this great music. She's a doctor of "Musicology". Have you seen it? The story itself is okay, but the music is great. Check it out.
MultiMaster Nation.
Anyone have experience with the profile sanding attachments? Does the paper stay clipped in place or does it slip? I don't want to end up with the equivalent of a PC Profile sander that so many have said was **** in other threads. Thanks.
I bought the profile attach a while back, but have not had the chance to use it much. The little I have used it though, I think it was worth the $45 or so I paid for it. It's a simple design, takes any paper (clamp fit), and adds capabilities to a tool that I'll never be without so for me it was a no-brainer.May not be the best profile sanding combo out there, but it is probably the best out there for $45.JT
One issue I've heard regarding the detail sander attachment is that since the head of the multimaster swings in an arch, the sanding action is somewhat uneven, as opposed to an actual detail sander that slides back and forth with constant contact.
I had a friend that was pointing out that same point after he used it, but to me, it's close enough in terms of doing what I want it to do and it's not another whole new tool - just makes the multimaster a bit more versatile. Better than using the flat pad to sand some profiles...JT
What type of profiles do you use it for? I'm still vacillating over a door that I hacked up trying to strip milk paint. Wasn't sure whether spending the $45 or so for the sanding attachment would be worth it.
profile sanding will take for ever on milk paint. There are special strippers for milk paint available at some specialty web sites, just Google milk paint....that's not a mistake, it's rustic
I got the paint off with heat. But until I got the technique down, I really scraped up one of the doors, on the profile around the rails and stiles. That is what I would be trying to smooth out.
Thanks. That's just what I needed to hear.
I've seen that show. Real good one.
http://tinyurl.com/755qq <------ Check out this auction.
Great. Just great. Another must have.
Next big job that comes thru I'll be putting that on the buy list.
I allow myself one good purchase per job to keep me happy when it rains.
be by the way, rez died
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
rez died??? what you talkin about willis??????? dont score me I lost a friend last week who just keeled over..younger then me annd had a whole lot going on...what you mean rez died????
Here ya go...hurry up...only 3+ hours till auction on Ebay. Had it on my watch list all week. I was gonna bid but I already have too much I need to buy more important right now so its all yours.
Be sold
andy
Fein Multimaster Finishing sander and accessories The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..
I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides,
I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.
I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you
and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.
That's a great deal, depending on what it ends up at. The dust collection attach alone is about$60, and each of those boxes of paper is about $17 each.That'd be an excellent bargain at up to about $225 I'd say. Tempted to bid just to gain the sandpaper and dust collector and then resell.JT
I'll never get it but gave it a shot..The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..
I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides,
I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.
I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you
and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.
Bet sniping at the end puts it around...
hmmm...
$250.
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
well, Twistedpervert just jacked it up...I'm guessing $270The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..
I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides,
I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.
I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you
and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.
Lets see how much I get beat by....hope Katrina isn't watching {{{{shuddering}}}}}The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..
I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides,
I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.
I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you
and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.
I was outbid...whewwwwwww. I should really mess with Twistedpervert now and get him up in price...he only has done this 4 times I see...LOL.
Nahhh, I ain't that mean...hmmm...nahhhh. I'll end up getting stuck with it for $300 +$25 shipping.
The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides, I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.
I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you
and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.
Edited 11/28/2005 9:23 pm ET by andybuildz
Ya, 228 plus 25 for shipping.
Tool crib has them new for pretty decent pricing and then it's new and if something goes haywire you have a place go with it.
Sometimes used tools on ebay are...eh... I don't know.
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'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
I truly feel like my multi-master will out live just about any other power tool that I own.Funny thing, although it's used in frequently, when it is being used, it is used hard. Have had it heated up quite a few times.Invaluable for scrapping old adhesives and such off of floor areas.JT
The new one I just bought last Sunday came with a 3 year factory warranty. they extended their warranty for a extra year.
be by the way, rez died ...awww man, all dead or just partly dead? Hey, pocket doors can't come off the track if they're nailed open
don't scare him off
oooo- are you asking a lot. LOL
check Calvin's links, that'll fill ya in.
but in short, it's one of those tools that, once you have, you don't know how you did without.
especially if you do remodeling work
I couldn't agree more about the praises you sing. Mine was purchased more than 10 years ago & was innocuously called the FEIN "Triangle" Sander when I bought it. No variable speed and much more expensive than today. Came in an orange steel case with part numbers for the accessories printed inside.
I once used it to open up ceiling chases to run all the forced-air ductwork between the floor joists for the retrofit of my house from electric baseboard heating to scorched air. By sawing along the joist centers, I was able to pop out neat retangular pieces of drywall from the finished basement ceiling. The replacement drywall pieces were easy to screw back and finish once all the ducts were done.
I've loaned it to my dad to cut the floor pan out of a car he was restoring; with all the weird angles and multiple curves of the sheet metal he didn't want to use any heat and distort the metal. (I never did tell him what it cost me to replace the round sawblade once he was done!)
I once made the mistake of demonstrating to my wife how safe the sawblade is. (Holding the howling sawblade to my hand & not getting cut impressed her it seems) Now she takes it to her office & does the same demo. for her patients before she uses it to cut off their casts!
About the only thing I've hardly ever done with the thing is SAND!
Great thread about a truly great tool!
wife got her klingspor catalogue todaythe xl kit was $319
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
don't try the sawblade demo with the E-cut blades.
take it from me, they cut flesh
Well there you go!All the years I've had mine and I never thought of using it for drywall patches. I'll bet it cut's em as clean as could be.Have a DW repair tomorrow I'll try that on. I've always just used a blade or saw and tried to make it as clean as it needed. JT
I told a bud of mine about the tool and he told me he has some flush cutting to do on a cabinent in his motor home. Asked if he could borrow it. I thought about it and told him sure. Gave it to him today. he wasnt home for about a hour and called me up and ranted about how nice the tool was.
Being new the multi-master you'll probably regretnot charging him by the inch of cut. Those blade wear outreal fast and they ain't cheap.But I have found you can sharpen them with a very small 3-ptfile.