I build a few decks, but like to draw everything in ACAD, and precut all the pieces and balustrade to my drawing, rather than from field measurements during construction – ACQ yellow pine is kind of twisted, and I hate error accumulation. Given that, I have to get my posts in EXACTLY the right place relative to X and Y, as well as height, or Z. Added to that, the post has to be vertical. And not rot at the base surrounded by cooncrete. And deal with sloped grade. And work by myself. And notch pieces together, and have no exposed fasteners. Etc.
I’ve set posts in concrete as accurately as possible, then modified my drawings to fit. I’ve built decks propped in the air, then dug in footings below. Nothing seemed “right”.
This weekend, I hit on my perfect solution –
1.) Layout pier locations within an inch or two, then dig a roughly 2′ square holes about 26″ deep. Tamp the bottom hard, throw in any gravel on hand.
2.) Mix 2 bags Sakcrete in a wheelbarrow, kind of loose, pour each hole. Puddle it flat with a mag float. Shoot those levels, take home measurements to put into drawing.
3.) Put a trapezoidal pier block in each hole. Given that they are exactly 5.125″ thick, subtract that from post length.
4.) Assemble deck structure from measurements and pre-assemble. Erect, kick pier blocks around to fit – there’s lots of room!
5.) Square to house – kick pier blocks around as needed; backfill with dirt. Viola! I’ll always do this in the future.
Forrest
Replies
Most excellent!
I'll use your generosity in the future.
Thanks for sharing!
Troy Sprout
Square, Level & Plumb Renovations
bump
'Nemo me impune lacesset'
No one will provoke me with impunity
Something that has worked for us (works best with lower decks).
We frame the deck / temp stake it in place (not raised) on the ground / dig the post holes using the framed deck as a guide / set the post / raise the deck and fasten
Bigger decks need lots of lifters or sections, but will work the same way.
Our deck builder has successfully done this for several years now.
I want posts in place within 1/8" - and I like the deck support posts also being the handrail posts - and I'm by myself.
I just came in from the shop, pre-making all the balustrade pieces - even the stair balustrade. with all concealed fasteners - because I know the posts are EXACT. I'll put them in tonight and post some pix when my wife gets back with the camera.
They're camping, I'm working . . .
Forrest
That design looks like it works great, now come on up to Mass. dig that hole down the 4 feet the building inspector needs, and bump into half the state of Vermont in the meantime. Holes here are a killer, they can end up being a foot over from where you start. We cantilever a lot and bolt the posts for more accuracy.David <!----><!---->
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At least your not in Austin, TX or the Texas hill country where you often run into solid rock and not dirt. Fortunately, I am not in the hill country either.
On a related note, I've started using Simpson CBS44's bases for fence posts - they're quite stiff and you can place them dead to a line. Much easier than wrestling a post in the ground. Simpson says not to use these connectors for non top supported structures but the fence is good and sturdy and there's no wood-dirt contact, the bigger issue in fence failure than tipping the thing over out here in California.I've also poured piers after the fact for simple structures, seems a reasonable way to go.
On bigger heavier decks do you use a lull or something to lift them, or just get a bunch of framers?
When in doubt, get a bigger hammer!
On projects where this proven system works, it does not get outrageous. The deck, or sections can be lifted by 2-4 men.
> The deck, or sections can be lifted by 2-4 men.Or a strong wind.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
Ours are right on the money when using our method..... described.
You may have a hard time lifting the framed deck if you are alone, but it works well for us.
What about tie-downs? How do you deal with resisting up-lift?
BILL
No tie downs - P & I said none were needed since the deck was attached to the house - no sure why that maters, but . . .
Forrest
That's odd, those holes don't look 3-1/2 feet deep.
Nope, 26"; 10" below our frost line of 16" makes the inspector happy.
Forrest
That takes all the fun out of it.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
Got finished, got paid -
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I used those solar / LED post caps on the stair knewels. Client said they were great at night coming from the barn. I tried to have very few exposed fasteners. Excluding the stair tread screws, you can see seven without crawling beneath.
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Forrest
Nice job McD.
Looks like a canidate for a sub deck under the main deck, walled in with an access door for storage.
Just my thoughts.