Maybe it’s because the orange box killed most of the real lumberyards around here, but I’m having a real hassle finding materials for a simple project.
I want to build a few (2-4) planters similar (not identical) to:
http://www.walpolewoodworkers.com/walpole/images/thumb/StandardPlanter_a.jpg
The idea is that they’ll be unfinished and weather to a nice gray. I like cedar, let’s go find some cedar. My usual millwork/lumber place has some nice Western Red Cedar in 4X4 and 2X4 only. Well…I gues we could resaw the 2Xs into planks and then T&G them for the sides, but the total cost is around 200 bucks a planter.
Call the surviving local lumberyard; all they carry is Port Orford Cedar decking; 5/4X6 and 4X4 posts. I ask if they have something cheaper, maybe some Atlantic White Cedar with a few knots, person at desk says “Port Orford cedar is white cedar”. Any T&G like you’d put on a wall? “We have panelling, but that’s more like a plywood material sir.” Uh…thanks.
I’m not sure if this is a materials question or a big box rant. Am I speaking Swahili to these folks? Anyone think of some good materials for this?
Pete
Replies
Port Orford Cedar is a white cedar.
You appear to have a problem with price or size. I can not tell which.
I pay $7.00/bdft for clear NWC, $7.50/bdft for clear WRC. These are large pieces 4x6x10'. 100bdft at a time. Delivery takes 5 days by truck.
I often pay $1.50/bdft for clear WRC 4x4 at the "orange box" stores.
Splines are better than T&G for projects where the price is dear.
> Port Orford Cedar is a white cedar
I know that. It's not the only white cedar though. It's my impression (maybe wrong) is that PO is a very pricy flavor of cedar.
> You appear to have a problem with price or size, I cannot tell which.
Size is somewhat flexible. I'm willing to adapt the design if it allows me to use a product that is inexpensive off the shelf.
Thanks for the information,
Pete
Consider bypassing the lumberyards completely.. Around here if I want a durable wood that will weather nicely I use white oak.. currrant saw mill prices for mill run white oak is 80 cents per bd. ft. they will saw you whatever you want up to 20 feet long..
Now that is green,rough, at the mill, but If you have a decent sized project you might consider that alternative.. White cedar here is also 80 cents unless I can get him to give me a better deal based on needing a whole lot of it..
By the way.. an 8 foot long board is always about 8'6" to 8'9" If you paint or otherwise seal the end to prevent checking.
I can use sawmill wood shortly after bringing it home if I air dry it a little. Most lumberyard wood is SD19 or shipped to dry @19% moisture.. (in other words it's cut and shipped right away and air dries to 19% moisture en route to the lumberyard/ project..) depending on the season green wood can be about 25% moisture when cut.. thus there isn't a whole lot of drying going on before use..
Look into local sawmills to save a lot! (ps. if you want to see what I did with local woods go to general discussions and look for "went to see the wacko..."
Ya know Frenchy, I hadn't even thought about white oak, but I should have. There's a great sawmill near here. It's been run by the same family for something like 150 years. They were my first call but I was thinking cedar which they don't cut. White oak would be just the ticket.
Moore's Sawmill, Bloomfield, Connecticut - gotta give them a plug.
Pete
use stainless steel fasteners when assembling white oak, regular steel will be eaten up by the tannic acids in white oak and rust, while causing the wood to rot.. shop carefully and you should be able to get a good deal on stainless.. (in fact I was able to buy stainless cheaper than the big box store wanted for regular.. ) Once the box stores clean out the competition the prices on fasteners tends to go right up.. They may sell 2x4's cheaply but nails and bolts are every bit as expensive if not more so..
Port Orford is a yeloow cedar, not white. The two common white cedars grow here on the east coast. PO is grown in the Pacific northwest/Canada/Alaska. It's much harder and more rot resistant than white cedar and is well worth the price. Use cheap wood and you will be building it all over again in a couple of years.
Given the style you show, I would maybe use clear fir and have a removeable liner for the dirt and plants.
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Excellence is its own reward!
Edited 5/20/2003 8:44:38 AM ET by piffin