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Discussion Forum

Install new Shower Valve from Front?

EBrandt | Posted in General Discussion on February 16, 2008 12:16pm

Hi all,

I have to install a new rough-in valve for a shower, as the homeowner wants to change to a different brand of faucet while updating their bathroom.

It is a 1-piece pre-formed stall shower (fiberglass, acrylic or whatever), and there is no access available from the other side of the wall.

Presently there is a 4″ hole cut in the shower wall for the existing valve.

I’m no stranger to plumbing work, have no problem cutting/fitting/sweating copper, but access on this job will be a little more challenging.

Does anyone have tips or advice on how to attack this replacement? I assume it is ‘somewhat’ common…

Thanks in advance,

-E.

Reply

Replies

  1. rlrefalo | Feb 16, 2008 01:18am | #1

       They make large remodel plates for this situation, but IMO are ugly. If the cutout needed for the new valve does not give you access to the supplies, you've no other option than make access from behind. What is it ? tile? outside wall?

  2. Sasquatch | Feb 16, 2008 01:44am | #2

    First, you need to make sure the new valve, when prepped for the copper in the wall, will fit.  I would assemble it to be sure.  If it is the same size, you might be able to do the job.  You can buy the splices that do not have the stops in them.  This will allow you to slide them onto the pipe completely and get the new valve in place.

    Considerations:  Masking the enclosure to prevent heat damage, making sure the wall cavity does not catch fire, keeping a fire extinguisher handy.

    I have sometimes found when I want to access pipes, that I think access from behind the wall is not possible.  Most of the time, this turns out to not be true once I have thought things through.  It  may be difficult, but maybe not impossible.  Impossible is a strong word.

    You will have the water shut off, so if there is a fire, you may burn the house down.

    Since you are doing this for a customer, I would strongly advise you to be straightforward and tell the customer what it will cost to do the job right.  If this means removing and replacing the shower, that is what I would offer to do.  If it means taking off some siding or temporarily removing a cabinet or working from a scaffold, It is your customer's problem to deal with and to pay for.

    Remember, one mistake could force you to tear into the wall from the rear anyway, or to have to replace the shower unit.  If that happens, both you and the customer will be upset.  You have all the liability.  I wouldn't risk it.

     

    1. Treetalk | Feb 16, 2008 03:31am | #3

      Why solder? cant u pex it?

      1. barmil | Feb 16, 2008 04:54am | #4

        Pex. I have the same interest. If the manifold can be fixed in some manner, not reliant on the copper pipe for support, could pex be an option for dealing with a close space? I still like the rear access, however.

      2. Sasquatch | Feb 16, 2008 06:46pm | #6

        I still haven't switched to PEX.  I have thought about it though.

  3. jej | Feb 16, 2008 07:50am | #5

    i have seen a valve assembely with shower head incased in a ss inclosure that screws to wall and all you do is hook it up with flex lines to hot and cold water .i bet a supply store could name the brand

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