Installation of floating, click-together
Shortly, I will begin to install plank cork floating, click-together flooring over 3/4″ subfloor. I will be using a power miter box with a 10″ blade to do this, and have heard that gaps at the walls should be somewhere between 1/4″ and 3/4″.
My questions are: what do I do at the doorways, when the plane of the closed door is parallel to the long side of the planks; and what do I do when the walls are out of square? How do I deal with either partial-width or tapering-width planks?
Replies
what do I do at the doorways
A "T" mold that transitions between the two different floorings. Gap it from the cork, allowing the space needed for expansion. Here, a qtr to 3/8's inch will float under the trim.
How do I deal with either partial-width or tapering-width planks?
Usually I'll adjust the flooring to the wacko room. Make the planks look good (or as best you can) to the room. Slight taper on all walls instead of one large taper cut. As far as how, cut the taper where the base or shoe wont cover it and still allow the expansion gap. You don't want spaces showing up later.
Sometimes the instructions in the box tell you what you want to know.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Make sure the baseboard (and shoe? quarterround?) is thick enough to cover the gap you leave.
I would try to keep the gap 1/4" to 1/2" if the instructions say 1/4" to 3/4".
Cut the tapers with a circular saw. Cut from the back of the piece to minimize the tearout.
At the door jambs, you will need to undercut the jamb. Set a scrap of the flooring next to the jamb and lay the saw blade on top of it to undercut the jamb. In the absence of expensive power tools (you probably could rent a jamb saw), use a Japanese style pull saw.
How do the pieces fit together?? Do you have to tilt it up to click it in? Or can it lay flat and then tap into the previous piece?
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.